22nd Sep 2010, 20:06

I was feeling so alone with my Saturn 2000 until I found this site. I have the same engine stalling problem, not starting unless I give it gas when I refuel. And now the service light is on! I've had so many costly fixes, but haven't tried the MAF sensor cleaning. Thanks for sharing.

30th Sep 2010, 20:39

Just bought a used Saturn 2000 LS2. Service engine light has been coming on after stop and start driving. I'll be taking it back to the used car dealership, and let them know about the sensor issue. I'll keep you all posted.

9th Oct 2010, 23:04

Just bought a 2000 LS2. The odometer is stuck at 110k miles... any thoughts on how to fix it?

23rd Nov 2010, 00:24

I brought a 2000 LS2 in May and the service engine light was on. I went to Autozone they said it was a O2 sensor. But I took it to a shop and they said it was burned valves and I needed a new engine. I just brought one, getting it put in this week.

So I want to know: is this a good car for me to keep or do I need to sell it when I get it fixed?

3rd Feb 2011, 15:46

My car's battery light came along with the oil light, so I put in neutral, started it, took 5 seconds to start cranking, and now nothing. Now there's a click vibrating through the fuse box. No click from the starter batteries at 12 volts. What's up?

12th Feb 2011, 10:45

Have had my 2000 LS2 since 2002 at 45,000 miles... had most of the problems mentioned here. Have had to replace the O2 sensor twice, MAF sensor, crankshaft sensor. None of these have been recalled, nothing has been recalled that I can remember except for the bad tail light problems.

The car runs great and has plenty of power when in good condition, but now is just a POS.

Had even more problems with the local dealership, Saturn does not ever seem to want to back up their product, it's no wonder they are now obsolete. Currently my airbag and service wrench light are on, have been for 4 years, I have not bothered to fix them as the dealership told me it would be over 500 dollars.

Two years ago, sent the car in for 100,000 mile tuneup, and the genius mechanics either did not tighten the tensioner enough or too much. Three days after getting my car back, was driving at 40mph when oil, motor, and coolant light came on and power steering went out. Had car towed to dealership, they did not claim any responsibility, but had to replace all intake valves as the timing chain jumped up into the engine.

Currently, my car is using coolant, we are getting ready to trade it in. Anyone interested in getting this car, definitely invest in the HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL, this has helped us save tons of money with repairs. Many of the sensors can be replaced on your own, without having to pay mechanics for expensive labor costs. The Haynes manual explains EVERYTHING you could need to fix many of these problems yourself. Again, love the car and the options, but has been a money pit.

18th Feb 2011, 15:25

It could be a TPS Throttle position sensor that causes false readings to the PCM. Which would also affect the readings to the MAF sensor, causing hard shifting. About a $90 part.

30th Mar 2011, 08:09

If you still having this problem, check for loose connection at PCM or TCM or a damage harness.

14th Jun 2011, 13:07

The problem is the crank position sensor.

27th Jan 2012, 17:10

Not really. It would have told you a small vac leak or something like that.

18th Apr 2012, 22:26

The Saturn V-6 is a dual cam engine, and requires special tools to get everything in time.

I tried to do it without the tools, and it was a waste of time and very frustrating.

I was unable to find anyone who rents the tools, and bought them new on the Internet for about $500.00.

After much time and effort, I was able to get the car back on the road, but I would not recommend anyone who is not fairly good at working on cars to attempt doing anything involving the cam shafts, and don't try it without the right tools.

After I got the car going, I sold the tool set on eBay for a little less than I paid from them.

The engine performs well, but it is not for novices to work on.

26th May 2012, 14:32

I have a 2003 LW300. I get the wrench light along with a jerking transmission when shifting into all gears. I tried cleaning the MAF; no solution. I then replaced the MAF sensor; no solution. So the problem is somewhere in the transmission. It only does this when the transmission gets hot.

Anybody got a suggestion, besides the MAF?

23rd Jul 2012, 02:18

You are in error. The O2 sensor and the mass airflow sensor are indeed different.

6th Dec 2012, 11:08

Wow... I bought this car used for $2000 at 90K miles back in March, and I am currently on my second repair that is going to add up to close to 1000. First was the PCM in the transmission, which cost 700, and now I am replacing the coil pack. Wrench and SES light on intermittently.

It's a crappy car to drive because you are always wondering when it is going to go out on you! I am going to trade it at the next repair.

I had a 94 and a 99 Saturn, and thought they were great... this 2000 with the V6 is a piece of crap. Never had issues like this with Dodge, Ford, Lincoln... but I did own a Cadillac that was a piece of crap. No more GMs... ever.

13th Apr 2013, 23:52

I bought my 2000 LS2 in 2001 with 16000 miles on it. It has been a good car until recently; my service light came on, code reader does not show anything. I now have 156000 miles on it and the only things I had to replace are the struts, brake pads and rotors. Any ideas?

2nd Jul 2013, 05:28

I was basically out of options in the middle of January after blowing up my Jeep, to shell out a $1000 bucks for a quick vehicle... a 2000 LS2 Saturn. Not a lot a money for being in a jam.

Picked it up from a mechanic friend. I work at AutoZone, so I have the resources for a lot of help.

I really like this car. But I will say that it seems whenever I code it, the codes seem to read more major problems than there are.

I am replacing the mass air today for the 3rd time since I got it in January. Although it is an easy fix, it's just frustrating when it shuts down. This time I just unplugged the damn MAF and drove it that way until I replace it.

Also about a week or 2 after I bought it, and it did sit for a few months, I coded out 6 codes... reduced power... BLAH BLAH BLAH. The throttle body plate was so full of goop, all it took was spraying the crap out of it with the cleaner and it runs like a dream. I will make sure I have a screw driver and a can of cleaner, and hell, maybe even an extra MAF. Those seem to be the only problems I have had. When the MAF goes you can actually hear it. So just unplug the sensor to get it started to drive!!!