Sorry to hear about all the problems with your Saturn. Hopefully your warranty will cover all these repairs. If not I would dump it also.
I have a 2000 LS2 now with 97,000 on it and put about $4000 in repairs on it in the last 3 years. Last oil change the mechanic tells me now I need my Oil Pan Resealed because now that is leaking. When they are running they are great, but they will suck you dry in repairs of things that just shouldn't break/wear out so soon, and multiple times with some repairs.
My 2000 LS2 thankfully was totaled last November. It only had 39,000 miles but it had so many problems, I was glad to be rid of it. Never again!
The SES light and slamming shifting problem was going to cost me about $900 to replace the solenoid.
The power steering pump was leaking fluid.
The steering rack was very noisy, dealer said needed to be replaced.
Stabilizer links shot.
Leaking coolant from the 'coolant bridge' - would have been a major repair as nearly the whole top of the engine would have to been pulled to get to it.
Complete crap car. GM doesn't deserve any of BHO's bailout money for producing such garbage.
I am a disabled vet and cannot afford to take this piece of crap car to a mechanic... so I need some HELP, Please...
We are TRYING to replace the headgaskets for a 2000 LS-2 Saturn, 3.0, V-6...
The guy doing the work says he needs the TDC Timing Marks for cams...
If ANYONE can be of assistance ; please e-mail me at BaddBoyD@bellsouth.net... Thank you so MUCH!!
I have a 2000 Saturn LS with 108,000 miles on it. I too live with the service light (with the wrench) coming on; however, about ten seconds before that the security light comes on. Both display about ten minutes into each trip. These lights remain on and appear again about ten minutes into my next ride. I have not had the shifting jolt described by other writers. Since the lights do not display until later, the OBD read at dead stop will be green. The lights are just annoying, but I can live with the problem.
I have a 2002 L300. The service light comes on when I take sharp turns, and it goes off when I turn the car off. When it comes on, sometimes the light on the dashboard comes on as if I have my E brake on... Why is this happening? Would a simple flush fix this?
The car runs good. Almost at 90K miles. But I will never get another Saturn.
A couple of years ago I had to replace the fuse box. This year it was the thermostat and radiator. And also my front driver's side turn signal keeps burning out the bulbs and works when it wants to... piece of junk...
If you have an answer, please email me email@example.com
I have a 2003 L200, and I have the bloody "wrench inside the car" light on. It's been on for at least a year now. I have a scanned it and 0 codes came up. I've called various dealerships and nobody knows how to get ride of the light. The car sputters when I'm at a red light, but drives smoothly while in motion. I've installed new plugs and a new fuel filter. I tried running higher octane gas and this seemed to have fixed the problem... no more stuttering, but the light is still on. Eventually the stuttering came back even while running the car on Shell Premium octane fuel. I bloody HATE this car. It only has 130k kms on it and my 1990 dodge spirit is runs nicer. My next attempt to fix this problem is by replacing the fuel cap. If that doesn't work, I'm going to pull the injectors and clean them. Never ever ever will I buy another GM...EVER!!!
Good thing the Saturn brand is dead. I owned a 2000 LS2 and it was the worst car I've ever bought. So many things went wrong with it. Saturn charged a fortune to repair them too!
I'm glad to be rid of that car, and I now own a Honda Accord V6 coupe and love it.
L series 2000 Saturn V6. A piece of junk. Will start when it wants to. It died the other day - only cranks, but will not start. It's throwing a p1780 code.
I have a 2000 LS2, 6 cyl. and I was having problems with the car not starting, it would turn over but wouldn't start. It seemed to only happen when the car was warmed up, after a drive, then if I would let the car sit for about and hour or so, it would start back up. After replacing the fuel filter, fuel pump, ignition module, and coils, I found out it was the crank sensor all along.
I was so ready to set a match to this stupid car, it has cost more money than it's worth, now, after replacing the crank sensor, it drives normally. I wanted to post this for people that might be having the same problem, so you wouldn't want to burn your car to the ground too.
Two years of different garages and commercial business attempting to correct my car's (2000 Saturn LS2) problem. Loss of power at 2000-2500 rpm. Bogging down. Super frustrating. Lean both left and right bank, plus a miss. Read about cleaning the MAF Sensor and my car took off like a rocket. It's like getting a new car! Thanks!
I have a 2000 LS2. I wish I had never bought this car. The service engine light and the security light come on when the car has been running for a few minutes. If I only take short trips, the car will not restart and I have to reset the passive security system, every time. Now the transmission is shifting hard, I hope it is just the MAF. I am going to get rid of this car as soon as I can!!
I have a 2000 LS V-6, got an interesting problem... I recently had the service engine light come on, and at the same time my low coolant light came on. Took it to the shop, and was told #1 cylinder was misfiring, plus that plug was bad, so I drove it for about 2 weeks til I got it fixed. Was told again the same thing, and now ignition coils for that cylinder need replacing, so OK, I fixed those, now 2 days later I'm still losing coolant, but see no leak, and same code appears with check engine light (cylinder 1 misfire) and also my oil light came on, so I have no clue what's going on, I just don't want to get hosed for repair costs... please help.
I suspect your car blew a head gasket, and the coolant is either leaking into the cylinder and being burned away, or leaking into the block and mixing with the oil. Pull out your engine oil dipstick; if the oil is white and milky, your head gasket's gone. If this is the case, it may already be too late to save this engine. To be honest though, it sounds like the car is most likely burning the coolant as it leaks through into cylinder 1 (that would explain the fouled plug and misfire). However if your oil light came on, it's also possible the coolant is mixing with the oil. Either way, this is a serious problem. If you don't see a coolant leak on the ground, but you're still losing coolant, it's obviously going somewhere, and there's only 2 places it could go: into the block with the oil; or into one or more of the cylinders, where it will be burned away. A good way to find out if a car is burning coolant is to look at the exhaust; is it blowing white smoke? Even just a little? If it is, the car is burning coolant.
DO NOT DRIVE OR EVEN START THE CAR until you know exactly what's wrong with it. Oil that's mixed with coolant will eventually kill an engine's bearings, and if it's burning coolant and you lose enough of it, the car could overheat, which would only make the head gasket problem worse. If the head gasket is gone (and from what you're describing I'd say it is) you're looking at a hefty repair bill unfortunately. I hate to tell you this, but this problem would have caused less damage had you not driven the car at all when you first noticed it happening. NEVER run a car with the oil light on, that's just common sense.