6th Mar 2017, 09:44

I've only had my Musso a few months and it was fine initially, then started dying - usually at a corner. Mechanics it seems, have no idea about Ssangyong. They thought it was a vacuum problem related to braking. Very dubious about driving it now. Which is a shame, because I really enjoy driving it. Hoping the comments on this page will help.

16th Mar 2017, 08:06

Are you certain the ECU is faulty? The common failure mode for this ECU is to lose spark on 2 cylinders i.e. one coil pack. This can be due to driver transistors in the ECU dying and can be fairly easily repaired. No start/no spark is very uncommon. A very common fault (which will cause the symptoms you describe) is the Over Voltage Protection Relay. This is found on the firewall on the driver's side of the brake booster. It's a rectangular metal box with a clear plastic hinged top with a fuse inside. The function of this device is to monitor the system voltage. There are 3 relays inside and a voltage sensing electronic circuit. If the system voltage exceeds about 15V (say from a faulty regulator in the alternator) it cuts off power to the ECU and other sensitive (and expensive) components to protect them from damage. Sometimes they are affected by moisture and can have internal corrosion, but most frequently the circuit board develops dry solder joints and it either intermittently turns off the power to the ECU or sometimes just outright packs up. It's usually intermittent for a time, but I have seen them drop dead. Symptoms are an engine that will crank, but will not start and on investigation there will be no spark, despite there being crank sensor pulses at the ECU. The OVP can be replaced in toto or if you don't mind uncrimping the can at the base to get into it, you can simply resolder the circuit board - pretty much all over is a good idea - with fresh resin cored 60/40 lead tin solder and a fairly hot soldering iron. To check if the OVP relay is working, with the can off, turn on the ignition and you should be able to see the two large relays and one small relay pull in. If any or all of them do not pull in when the ignition is turned on, the unit is faulty. After resoldering, when reinstalled, if this was the problem and you have carried out the repair successfully, the engine should start immediately.

14th Apr 2017, 02:19

Also erratic spark can be due to a high voltage pack losing common connection if the wire clip is missing. It should have a wire spring across a corner mounting hole.

Can anyone advise how I can remove the electronic disable system on my 1996 3.2 litre wagon? I use the key as the remove units are unreliable. However if I remove the battery it takes me 20 minutes to reset the electronic disable with a remote before I can start the car. Once reset it is fine, however I do not want to get stuck in a dangerous situation.

24th Jul 2017, 05:25

Hello. I'm buying the engine from a Mercedes Korando 2.9 diesel of year 2005. I need the oil filter number. Can somebody can help me with it?

14th Aug 2017, 10:18

The automatic transmission may have nylon bushes in the shifter linkages. They are a wear item and cheap to replace. The shifter will be much more precise following replacement.

26th Aug 2017, 08:49

I have several Mussos, which due to my job overseas (month on/month off) means they are often stood for weeks on end unused.

Eventually the mechanical vacuum stop valve on the underside of the ignition switch starts sticking and it can take several seconds, or never, to stop.

Usually removing the hoses and squirting WD40 through it will free things up.

Quite difficult to replace as the screws are not easily accessible, and a cranked PH1 screwdriver is required.

Rarely happens on a vehicle used every day; then the cause is likely to be a split or leaking hose.

1st Nov 2017, 13:02

I have a 2.9 turbo diesel Ssangyong. My problem was a leaking injector tube. I have also replaced the o-rings on the valve on top of the diesel pump. I have bled all the air out of the system. My problem is it will start once a day; I can drive whilst I am keeping up the revs as it will not idle. After 4 kilometers it will cut out and not start till the next day. Please can anyone help?

4th Nov 2017, 02:58

Is there a manual SsangYong Musso turbo diesel 2006?

6th Nov 2018, 20:59


I have a 2005 2.9L diesel. My issue is when driving the transmission randomly downshifts from 4th to 3rd gear. It will hang in 3 for a little while then shift back to 4th. All gear changes are smooth and it sometimes doesn't happen much at all. Other times it can happen a lot. Any ideas please?


10th Dec 2018, 04:41

Hi, I am looking for a solution as my 1999 Daewoo/Musso model MWDE4LT has been out of action for some 6 years. Tried crank shaft sensor and also cam sensor, and other numerous checks to no avail.

The car can be driving along quite nicely, then the engine just stops; sometimes it will crank up immediately; most of time it will just turn over and not start; leave it for a while and it starts. We don't believe it is a heat problem as this has been checked out.

Someone has mention OVPR (!!) which is located beside the brake booster; remove the internal component and check solder joints!!

Have the readers any other suggestions?

Have had the car since new, and never had any problems other than replacing tires.


14th Dec 2018, 09:03


Where is the fuel cut off immobilizer. Need to do the bypass thing as well.

28th Feb 2019, 00:08

I too, need a good vacuum diagram, or a photo of the 2.9 diesel engine(non-turbo). Did you get it sorted?

2nd Apr 2019, 05:30

I have had my Musso 1999 since new, and up until about a year ago it has been brilliant. My previous vehicle was a Range Rover; 500,000 miles without a spanner on it apart from services. A hard act to follow, but I am impressed with the quality and reliability of my Musso. You must have been unlucky enough to get a lemon.

12th Jun 2019, 12:54

Two strong possibilities.

1) Over Voltage Protection Relay - silver box with a fuse in it on the firewall near the brake booster. Dry joints inside can cause it to cut off power to the ignition and fuel systems, meaning it will turn over but not start.

2) Crank Position Sensor, if it stops working, no ignition pulses are generated; again, it will turn over but not start.

Had both these faults on mine. There's another issue I'm chasing right now where it will not turn over when left idling for some time and switched off.