Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-70
"Mechanic or, not my recommendation to those not too knowledgable is to shut down immediately particularly with an oil light or overheating."
The "check engine" light is usually separate from the oil light and most cars have heat guages. Oh, well, if you want to go running to throw your money away every time a little light comes on, have at it.
The check engine light should be checked as well. Try buying a new cat or it could be a loose gas cap, or the O2 sensor is shot burning more fuel. Other lights can be serious. I maintain my comment, have it checked.
ORIGINAL REVIEWER HERE.
To comment 17th May 2009, 18:20.
<<My wife came in one day and said "Honey the check engine light is on in my Explorer". I just said "Run a tank of Premium gas through it". She did and the light went out.>>
The problem on my Camry was remedied by replacing both the catalytic converter and oxygen sensor.
About two hours after I bought the Camry, the thought of running premium fuel through the Taurus DID cross my mind. However, the Taurus was gone and there was nothing I could have done.
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To comment 18th May 2009, 21:19.
<<Mechanic or, not my recommendation to those not too knowledgable is to shut down immediately particularly with an oil light or overheating. Many cases it's too late and I prefer actual guages in my cars. Telling someone to keep driving is not advisable. I have reset some warning lights myself and agree to a point, but shut down if you are not sure and pull out your manual or get on the cell phone and ask. Cheaper than a head gasket or a replacement engine block.>>
I agree. If any light came on in my car, Taurus or Camry, I would shut down immediately OR drive it straight to the dealer.
FOR ANYONE WHO WOULD LIKE TO KNOW, I AM *NOT* MECHANICALLY INCLINED.
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Today, my son noticed that the glove box is falling apart. The cover is not flush when it is closed, and the clip that holds the door closed is losing its paint. All I can say: Wow.
You could also say wow when you waste your valuable time running a vehicle through the inspection lane and failing inspection with neglecting to service your O2 sensor/pollution control device. My state is stringent (Delaware). Plus your contribution to polluting the environment. I never had my motor vehicle ask me on my glove box latch perhaps yours is more stringent. Again, if ever in doubt about an instrument light, pull over check your manual before proceeding. If you see steam coming out under your hood, burning odors, or driving on a flat I also would suggest the same. Pull over. Or you can make the mechanic rich. Phone calls are much cheaper........ ask.
I have a teen driver and we both have cells.
ORIGINAL REVIEWER HERE:
To the last comment, the idea of pulling over and calling sounds like a better idea than running it right to the shop.
If an engine is running hot, WITH or WITHOUT a light or gauge, the odor is VERY distinct. "Check engine" lights DO NOT, in most cases have anything to do with overheating OR low oil pressure. A 3-minute check of your owner's manual will tell you BEFORE the light comes on and you have to decide what to do. Anyone who doesn't read their owner's manual IMMEDIATELY upon buying a car should not be driving one. In 99% of cases the "check engine" light means NOTHING. They are pre-programmed to come on at certain intervals. This is to scare you into taking it to a dealer.
17:39 my wife quite educated calls me and shuts down immediately. 99% is not 100%...and we have not bought an engine yet.
I also have the dealer go through every gauge and function on my vehicles. Even basics such as I learned on my Corvette to shut the hood in the center, not from the side... or 10 second wait on restart with fuel shutoff on anti theft message etc etc etc spend time learning on any new or used vehicle with a person that owns same year make model... lot of details are not in the manual by the way.
Why not pull the fuses on the guages, lights or are they there for a reason? Not everyone is illiterate on here but they are also not mechanics as well. Shut down and make a phone call. Better than heartbreak when you had a warning you ignored because it might be so. I hope you are not a pilot.
ORIGINAL REVIEWER HERE:
To comment 21:18, thank you. Little details AREN'T in the manual. I looked in my Camry's manual for info about the air filter - NO INFORMATION ABOUT THE FILTER IS THERE. Yet - there are 3 pages about the garage control cabinet between the visors. Go figure.
Why be scared to go to a dealer? Rather than rush out with a new car purchase, driving away quickly, ask them. They will come out and go over every single feature and how to use them in cars. They no doubt have training on the cars they sell. In the eagerness to drive the new ride off the lot, much could be learned. I also ask tons of questions on the test drives as well.
I pull my manual usually to identify fuses, how to set the clock etc quite frankly. And I agree a lot is not in them. But I do go over everything with the salesperson to know where everything is and how it works. And I have returned later to quickly learn more.
I once had a new Acura Legend with a hidden drawer in the dash left of the wheel and drove that new car almost 3 years before finding it was there. After that I asked. I also do not ever ignore lights... maybe you might want to own a nicer newer car someday instead of shelling out for large repairs ignoring them. Cars are too expensive to be so nonchalant.
ORIGINAL REVIEWER HERE.
To the last comment, I agree. A car is a machine. It WILL break down. Some will break down more than others, and some will "die" before others. It is my philosophy that a car will last as long as you want it to as long as you replace the parts. If the car is mechanically fine but has an empty fuel tank, is it dead because it won't move?
"It is my philosophy that a car will last as long as you want it to as long as you replace the parts"
I basically agree, but differ on the "parts" that one has to replace. We've had to replace far fewer "parts" on our Big Three cars than on our imports.
Our Mazda (built in Japan before Ford took over and upped the quality) had the engine replaced at 84,000 miles. That's one "part" but a very BIG one.
Same with our Honda. An engine failure at 99,000 miles. We DIDN'T replace that one, we junked it and bought a Ford.
Our 1975 Ford made 325,000+ miles with only a muffler, hoses, a starter and three brake jobs. More "parts" but MUCH CHEAPER parts.
Our 1977 Buick made 277,000+ miles with ZERO "parts" beyond brakes, belts and hoses. Again, much less expense.
Our 1990 Dodge was sold in perfect condition at 240,000+ miles. It had had two brake jobs, two timing belts and one hose. Again, virtually no expense at all.
Replacing a few minor parts in domestics is far, far cheaper than an engine every 80,000-90,000 miles in an import.
We buy AMERICAN. We encourage you to as well. Our economy needs your support.
ORIGINAL REVIEWER HERE.
I agree. But I was not offered any Fords - just this Toyota and the rest were Daimlers (yet offered at a GM dealer). I knew they were in financial trouble, and the finances person at that GM dealer was trying to get me a Lincoln Town Car. I said, "Yeah right," and left to get the Toyota from the dealer that offered the Toyota.
I seldom ever drive my wife's car. She is an excellent mechanic herself and knows when something needs attention. Since we drive domestic vehicles they virtually never require any attention anyway.
Today I took a day off to just check out her car and see if it needed anything (it's 7 years old and has 70,000+ miles on it). I noticed the "service engine" light was on and asked her when it came on. Her reply was "late 2006". I had AutoZone scan the code and it was "leak in EVAP system". In layman's language that means "nothing to worry about, just the dealer wanting to charge you $500". I just reset the light and went on my way. The rest of the inspection I did revealed nothing. No low fluids, no worn brake pads... nothing.
I see so many comments on here about people running scared to a dealer for every little quirk in their car and I'm amazed at what huge sums of money people pour into items that probably don't need touching for another 50,000 miles. I see people talking about brake work at 20,000 miles. I can't FATHOM how anyone could wear out brakes that quick even if they TRIED to. If my wife can put over 70,000 miles on a big SUV in city traffic and still not need brake pads, then no one should need them before that. You guys are getting TAKEN to the tune of some big money.
What terrain do you drive on. I have mountains and like your random 70k fits all on brake wear. Is being safe not sorry a reckless view.
"What terrain do you drive on. I have mountains and like your random 70k fits all on brake wear. Is being safe not sorry a reckless view."
I'm a mechanic, and there is nothing "unsafe" about driving any car until it actually NEEDS brakes. Also, I didn't say 70,000 miles, I said we generally go 100,000 on a set of brake pads. Only our Honda and Mazda required brakes before 70,000, but imports have very under-engineered brakes. We live in rolling, mostly level terrain, but know how to drive to prolong brake wear in any terrain. We'd get the same brake wear in the Rockies. It's simply a matter of knowing how to drive. We've vacationed in both the Rockies and the Smokies and the use of our brakes was no greater there than at home.
As for people motivated by fear to spend money needlessly, shops and dealerships have a field day with people like that. That's why I encourage car owners to at least know when you need BASIC maintenance rather than allowing yourself to be taken. If a shop said "You need brakes", do you have the ability to actually LOOK at them and tell?? If not, you're a sitting duck with "SUCKER" written all over you.