12th Jun 2003, 16:49
In regards to the oil pressure problems previously noted, I have (hopefully) ended my nightmare with VW and this issue. The light started going on for me after an oil change at a local Chevron (my bad).
Around this time there was an obvious lifter clicking sound when the engine got warm and at startup. The first dealership I took it to spent 5 hours and no fault diagnosis, let alone they totally missed an obvious broken vacuum hose after they had "finished". They had the nerve to charge me extra for the hose and labor and sent me on my way.
The advisor recommended fuel additive for the lifter noise and right after I put it in, I got an emmissions workshop light on.
I finally took it to my mechanic who was the only one who seemed to know what he was talking about. He found another broken vacuum hose, tested the oil pressure (which seemed to come out OK), reset the alert system, and did the rest of a 60k service.
A month later, the oil pressure warning comes on, I called VW America and they referred me to another dealer/service.
A way too long story short, the foreman got in the car with me and instantly told me my oil pump was bad.
I got to pick up my Passat today with its new pump, and cross my fingers all is going to be well.
I hope all of you can find a VW mechanic that is straight up and knowledgeable, and not have to wait the 4 months that I did.
8th Aug 2003, 16:24
2000 Passat"trouble lights" Dealer finally found a over tightened wire tie on wiring between cams. Cut tie, problem gone. Yeah!!!
24th Aug 2003, 17:13
I have a 2000 Passat GLS 4-Motion and I have experienced similar problems.
I had to get the fuel sensors changed twice, but my gauge actually died on me and wouldn't work anymore. It sort of worked after the sensors were changed the first time and went bad again. The dealership claimed that the first replacement set was faulty. However, there is still an inconsistency in readings from time to time.
I agree with the general disapproval of premature brake wear/problems. I had to change the rear brake pads around 35000 miles, and I know for a fact that my rotars are not in good shape either. I am considering replacing them with aftermarket parts.
Finally, my tires. My VW came with Michelin's MXV4 Plus tires. A pretty good and respectable tire, so I though. I started experiencing problems at 33000 miles, one of the tires started to separate and another one developed flat spots. All 4 tires wore out way too quickly. I had to replace the tires at 37000 miles when I should have been able to get at least another good 10000 out of them. Right now I am running Goodyear Eagle LS tires.
My last comment is a loud clonking noise I hear when I am making a slow stop. I had this checked out at the dealership and they assured me that it was normal. The diagnosis was backlash from the drivetrain and only seems to happen with the car warms up. In Fact I drove another Passat that was on the lot and it made the exact same noise. As I put more miles on the car, it seems to get louder and worst.
5th Sep 2003, 10:56
I purchased a 2000 Passat V6 in June 2000. I have had several problems; both front headlights went out in the first year, the turn signal motor went out and had to be replaced around 38,000 miles, the passenger seat got stuck in one position due to a cable disconnecting and had to be repaired, the rear passenger door has been misaligned from day 1 although we did not notice it when we picked up the car, I have had the Oil Pressure/Stop Engine immediately light come when I started the car on which panicked me, but I stopped the car and started it again and it never happened since. My check engine/emissions work shop light has been on for 3 months. It came on once before, but corrected itself within about 3 weeks.
My husband is very irritated at the high cost of oil changes and scheduled maintenance so he does most of it himself-even the brakes.
Even though I loved this car when I bought it and I plan to keep driving it since it is paid for I can say I will not purchase another Volkswagen.
8th Jan 2004, 12:33
I have been having many of these same problems. I bought my 2000 V4 Passat used from a reliable dealership about 1 1/2 years ago. Unfortunately, the warranty was no longer in good standing with the VW dealership. Despite this, I though I had made a good purchase, and was very proud of myself, this being the first car I have purchased on my own. Now I am not so sure.
Last winter, during an especially cold week, I failed to drive my Passat for a few days. When I restarted my car, it started extremely rough, and then the emissions workshop/check engine light came on. I was told by others not to worry, this was just because I hadn't driven my car in a few days. I added some fuel injector cleaner, and filled the gas tank with gas, and the problem corrected itself in a few days.
Once again, this same thing has happened to me this winter, although the problem has not yet corrected itself. The emissions workshop/check engine light has been on for over a week, and no matter how much I drive it, and despite the addition of fuel injector cleaner, nothing seems to help.
I wasn't worried until reading these other comments. Not I wonder if it's not better to abandon ship before it's too late!
13th Feb 2004, 20:18
We purchased a 2000 Passat Wagon 8 months ago and thought it was a great car. The first weird problem we had was an odd engine smell after driving long distances. Eventually this went away. Our latest problem involves the check engine light / emissions workshop. When I took the car in to check out the problem, I was quoted a price of $3000 in parts alone to replace the 2 main catalytic converters. We shopped around and found a cheaper price of $2500, but decided to wait on the repairs. We can't believe this car is just outside the warranty period and now has major problems. We will either have to fix it to pass the smog test or sell the car. I think it's a lemon and would like to sell. I don't recommend buying this year or model.
10th Apr 2004, 18:09
I have a 2000 Passat wagon. I have had all the 'usual' VW maintenance wrinkles: oem tires turned to junk at less than 30,000 miles, rear pads and rotors replaced before 40,000 miles, front pads have "less than 10% remaining" according to dealer service (this at less than 45,000 miles) but the rotors are intact - for now.
Presently the "Emissions Workshop!" notice and check engine light come on intermittently, and the idle lopes. For the many others with the emissions notice, be advised that the small oem vacuum hoses (with the woven covering) go bad very rapidly. The rubber dries out, and they crack and crumble. Replace any that are found to be bad, and the light and message should go out after a few trips. Tip: don't use oem hose, or you will have the same problem in a few thousand miles. Toss those crimped clamps, but do use clamps - even an intermittent leak can set off the check engine light and notice.
The idle lope has been traced by me to the carbon canister system, as the lope changes or even goes away depending on how much gas is in the tank. Over 1/2 tank or about 3 gallons remaining, the idle is fine. Anything in between or almost empty, it is a real adventure to control the car at low throttle (while parking, say). Acceleration from a stop requires patience when it is in this mode.
I'm not real anxious to return to the dealer for 'diagnosis' after a previous repair left me with almost no oil (dipstick was dry when I checked, yet no warning lights).
Southern California residents note: trying to sell a car to avoid a huge emissions repair bill won't work. The law requires the seller to have the car smogged before title can be transferred. I am not sure about out-of-state sales, but I do know that charitable donations are exempt from this requirement.