My new Mazda 6 wagon had a horrible rattling sound coming from the dash two weeks after purchase. Dealership kept vehicle for 5 days, but gave me a loner car. It turns out that Mazda makes a kit to silence the noisy dash. The dash had to come out of the vehicle in order to install this kit. This problem was resolved.
Two weeks after the first repair, the headliner devolped a loud squeek-like noise. The dealer had the car only 2 days this time and resolved this matter. The first and second incidents occured less than 2 months after buying the car.
Now, the front passenger door has a rattle in it and this rattle turns into an annoying vibrating sound when the radio is turned on. Mazda has had my vehicle for 10 DAYS now. They tell me they have replaced all of the moving parts in the door, but can't get rid of the problem because they are not sure what is causing it. The service people checked two or more new vehicles of the same model on the lot and they all make the same noise in the same door. Apparently, Mazda has been made aware of a few other cases such as mine nationwide, but has not figured out the problem. Problem has not been resolved.
Very nice looking vehicle that drives well. I have not had any problems with the car besides the rattling sounds in the dash, headliner and door. The dealership has been absolutely wonderful in taking care of me, but they are unable to figure out the problem with the door. It seems I will now have to deal with Mazda Motor Corporation directly regarding this problem. Because the car has been in the shop 17 days since purchasing it on 2/13/2005, I would not recommend buying this car until Mazda does something about their quality control. If you own one, let me know if you have any of these problems. THanks
If the door rattles when the speaker is on at high volume, then it is likely that the cause is a harmonic vibration. In fact, if the volume is turned up very high, this is not unusual, and since you are the driver, you would notice the rattle from the driver's side door, rather than the passenger door due to proximity.
There are a number of after market kits that deaden or dampen vibration from sound systems, and these are often needed in vehicles with newer more powerful sound systems.
A quick test would be to use a test CD that offers tone generator frequencies sweeping from lower to higher frequencies, or selected tone frequencies in order to isolate and pinpoint where the harmonic (and at what frequency it vibrates) is located.
Then and only then can the problem be resolved.
Frankly, although no one enjoys rattles and vibration, you seem unusually sensitive to these as your complaints all are based on "noise." These may be nagging, but they are not fundamental complaints related to the reliability, driveability or soundness of the vehicle.
A lot of people understand that even new cars have some imperfections and also realize that some problems or complaints must be resolved by the owners to their own satisfaction... particularly when the service department cannot duplicate the symptoms-- then you need a method of being able to demonstrate this clearly to their satisfaction. Then there is a better chance of the problem being resolved.
When a friend had a late model Pontiac Firebird and the doors and back deck rattled when the high power stereo was turned up loudly, he was advised (and I think correctly!) by the dealer "oh that? Yeah, don't turn the volume up that loud and it won't rattle!"
Somewhere there is "acceptable levels of noise" and then at some point one has unacceptable levels of noise during routine operation. Determining those differences is very important, and your complaint fails to satisfy by detailing the level of volume, type of music, bass output, etc.
Good Luck.
When you buy a new car and the dash rattles to the point where it needs to be completely removed in order for the dealership to install a "squeak kit", a so-called kit developed by the manufacturer, Mazda, then there is a problem with the either the engineering or assembly or perhaps both. Of course, the inner workings of doors might vibrate with the music on loud, but they should be designed to accommodate moderate volumes without audible vibrations. I had the car less than a month when these problems developed and I have had the car for exactly one year as I write this. There is a new vibrating sound coming from the small tweeter (even when the stereo is off) located atop the driver side door panel and I intend on having Mazda take care of this problem. As long as consumers continue to accept inferior quality from America's automakers, they will never produce quality vehicles on par with the Japanese. Mazda's parent company is Ford and the car was built here in the US. I am not complaining about every single rattle or squeak that emanates from its interior, as all cars make some sort of noise. The headliner and dash noise problems were corrected shortly after purchasing the vehicle and have been quiet ever since. If you read the professional reviews on this particular vehicle you will see mention of these annoying rattles because they due, in fact, fall outside the tolerance ranges of most people. The car has a great feel to it and is a great deal for the price. I know Mazda stiffened the frame in the '06 Mazda 6, resulting in less frame torque. This is an example of an improvement based on customer feedback.
My 2005 five Sportwagon has an on board computer problem that cuts the throttle off when you downshift... Four repairs later I still have the same issue. They have stopped replacing the throttle body and tell me they don't know what's causing the problem. I owned this car six days when this started... eight months later it does this all the time, engine light goes on, car bucks, runs, but barely. I pull off the road in commuter traffic into NYC. I sit... then the car will start OK with the engine light on... then when it sits overnight the engine light will be off the next morning.
It's probably done this 12-15 times...it's a beautiful lemon.
I have an '03 and it rattled the day I drove it off the lot, when it was brand new. There was a nick in the headliner as if they had dropped it during assembly, it would squeak when going over bumps. The dealership didn't do anything, but press on it until it went away, of course it was back in a week.
Now, 50K miles later, everything squeaks and rattles. The cup holder, sunglass holder, and all four doors. I've given up on chasing down all of the sources of the sounds, now I just turn up the radio.
I purchased a 2004 Mazda6 wagon and have 16600 miles. I really like the car and feel it handles much better than the 2004 Honda Accord v6 I owned prior to this. I do have a rattling problem in the dash and find it annoying. The dealer had it for one day and did not hear the rattle. Funny, but it does seem to come and go. I plan to bring it up to the dealer again and see if he can fix it. Other than that no problems.
I purchased a 2005 Mazda 6 and sometimes when I pull out in front of traffic or just pull out onto a road at all the entire car dies. The engine lights come on and the steering locks up. I can't move off the road even if I wanted to. I have to turn the car off and then turn it back on. I have brought it to the shop four times and they keep telling me it is the throttle body. I believe they need to get another phrase. The rattling in the dash and door drives me nuts. They say they don't hear it. I feel as if I have a lemon and there is nothing I can do about it. I will never buy a Mazda again.
I have had a 2005 Mazda 6 for about a year now. I had to take the car in to the dealership within 2 weeks so they could figure out where the squeaking was coming from and they said it will solve itself which it sort of did. Few months later, I took it to the dealership with a transmission problem. Basically, in the 1st gear transition to 2nd gear, there would be a jolt close to a whiplash. Apparently, there was a software glitch and there were recalls for the software update. After it was supposedly fixed, I tried to take it out of the parking lot and it was worse than before. The car spent THREE days in the shop. And now, I am dealing with a service light, temperature display problem in the dashboard, sharp left turn and brake pedal squeaking, and the power circuit board cover keeps falling even though I am not even touching it. Granted, no car is perfect, but is all of this supposed to happen to a new car?
I own a 2004 Mazda 6 Sport-wagon. It now has 66 000 km (41 000 miles). I just brought it in for the fourth time to have the dash squeak fixed. It always comes from the junction between the dash and the windshield on the passenger side. Last time they made me pay. Now they are going to have to fix it until it is right. Every time the noise re-appeared after a month.
Other squeaks include the break pedal and now the drive belt. After taking it in twice they finally discovered that oil leaks onto the belt which makes it squeal.
Other problems I have had include having the disks machined after 12000 km (8 000 miles) then they changed them after 40 000 km now, 8 month later they have to machine them again because they vibrate once more. They finally diagnosed that the pads are sticking.
Also had the fan control module replaced since the fan would continuously fluctuate from fast to slow, sometimes for minutes after the keys were removed from the car.
These are always fixed under warranty, but it is a real hassle.
Car is great to drive, but I think it likes to go back to its mommy (dealer) to much...
I have a 2005 Mazda 6 that I purchased new. It developed a sort of dry bearing noise after 1000Kms and Mazda say it is the clutch in the alternator, not detrimental to the car and common in that model. I am not happy as it wasn't there when I bought the car, it isn't in every Mazda 6 and sounds shocking like a dry bearing when you switch the engine off. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has experienced similar.
I purchased a brand new 2005 Mazda6 earlier in 06. I have had no problems with the car until this weekend when I noticed the Check Engine Light was on. I checked the manual and looked for all the things that would give this alert. But nothing out of the ordinary. I even called up a friend who had the same car and he mentioned that the car has a tendency to do this and to wait a couple of days. Sure enough the next day the light turned off however, I started noticing a slight clicking sound during light gassing. This has happened at least 3 times over 2 days and only after driving high speeds 60+ mph. Coincidentally I had no issues prior to the only oil change performed by the dealership 3 weeks ago. I suspect the dealership either did not put ehough oil in (no oil warning light) or put in the wrong viscosity. I will take this to a local shop and see if they can make an accurate level reading.
I purchased an '05 Mazda 6 in August 2005 and am currently (Oct 24/06) experiencing the same jolt as was previously mentioned on this message board. When I try passing someone on the highway and I'm in the 6th gear, it goes to the 4th or 5th and then when it tries to go back to the 6th the car jolts. I sent it 3 times to the dealer and most recently, they had it for 13 days before they gave it back to me insisting there is no problem. They flashed it and reset the CAM shaft. It has improved, but it still jolts a little. I don't know what to do???
My mazda 6 car has the same rattling that everyone is talking about I have only 18000 miles on it and it seems to very annoying when the dash rattles for 2 hours when you are on I-45. Also last week I figured out that my back airback on my driver side is now squeaking I don't know what I should do I have taken it to dealers 3 times, but nothing has happend.
Why not try a Mazda 3 next time? I have a Mazda 3 2-lite Sport 4 door, and have only ever experienced two rattles. Once when someone inadvertantly left a £1 coin in the door pocket, and the rattle the missus gives me every time we get in the car...
<<Why not try a Mazda 3 next time? I have a Mazda 3 2-lite Sport 4 door, and have only ever experienced two rattles. Once when someone inadvertantly left a £1 coin in the door pocket, and the rattle the missus gives me every time we get in the car...>>
Your dealer should be able to take care of the latter complaint and make sure your missus don't rattle no more.
Anyone have mazda6's burning oil? paid $2.000 for a mechanic to tell me none of the factory rings have ever seated. I have 30,000 miles on it dealer telling me I caused it with cold air induction kit. If that's the case I would have 20,000 miles of normal ware in motor. Kit put on 10,000 miles ago. Mechanic says rings have ever seated from factory. Dealer telling me I voided warranty and caused problem, being tossed like a yoyo. Have kids they need to eat. Dealer saying it will cost $10,000 to repair. :- (