Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-48
I have had the same "thumping into gear" problem with my 2000 A6 2.7T and was repeatedly told by dealer that this was normal as well. Now has 88,000 miles and I just replaced oil seals for $1500+. I'm now told it needs new catalytic converter and suspension parts for $5000. Does anyone know about after market catalytic converters for these cars? Also, I just paid off the car and hate to have to trade it. If I buy new, I'm reluctant to do another Audi due to the repair record of this one. Unfortunately I do love the look and drive of the car -- when it's out of the shop. Does anyone know about the new 2005 A6?
I have the 2000 Audi A6 Quattro with the 5-speed Tiptronic transmission. Bought it new, and it now has 176,000 miles. Experienced shifting problem when new, most of which were resolved by a change-out of the transmission computer (or so I was told). While it has shifted far better since that was done (at less than 10,000 miles), it still has the thumping issue experienced when transitioning from decelleration to acceleration at slow speeds, typically when approaching a stop light and the light changes just before I come to a stop. I believe that the thump is not a gear shift. I have watched this for over 170,000 miles, and I have had it happen whether or not I was in Tiptronic mode or simply in "drive." I, too, first thought is was downshifting hard, but it is not that. I believe that when I command an acceleration from a near-stop, it is the torque converter which causes the thump by slamming the vanes. This car is all drive-by-wire. For some reason it will not accept rapid changes in accelerator position during coast down. Taking the stop light scenario to an extreme, if I come very close to stopping, then step down hard on the gas (as in trying to fit into a small opportunity in traffic), the throttle response delay is deadly, usually around 4 seconds. The only way I have been able to overcome this delay is to manually shift to 2nd or, if it will let me, to 1st gear on approach to the stop, so that it does not have to think about shifting down from 3rd to first, then unlocking the torque converter, then allowing the throttle to respond. I truly believe that most or all of the problem is in the drive-by-wire design not allowing adequate responses to changes in driver input.
The Audi A6 2.7T Quattro is a car that, while very rewarding to drive, is quite high maintenance. Camshaft seals/cam adjuster gaskets are a common repair item for this motor. Engine mounts are not an uncommon fix, either.
However, if one bought an Audi expecting low maintenance costs, one must reconsider reality. It takes a lot of money/precision engineering to achieve the drive/feel that German cars such as Audi deliver, and maintaining that feel costs quite a bit.
The newer crop of Audi A6s (2005+) are more robust and have different engines which should prove to be lower maintenance. Try one out.
I have a 2000 A6 Quattro Audi, certified pre owned. It has been in and out of the shop more than I care to mention.
The catalytic converter was replaced at 13m miles, now at 80m, it needs it again.
The transmission fluid disappeared, though the dealer doesn't know where. It's a sealed transmission, so the fluid cannot be checked. Now it needs a new one.
Air conditioner needs replacing, brake sensor light had to be repaired, dashboard had to be replaced, both front boots had to be replaced, rear axle seals leak, hesitation when accelerating.
I have never had so many problems with a car, and would never by this brand again.
Hello, to all those experiencing the transmission hesitation upon a rolling start try this fix. Turn the key to the ON position, then hold the accelerator to the floor for approximately 30 seconds or so, then turn the key to OFF. Then start your car as normal. What may be happening is that the Audi transmission computer is a "learning" computer. It learns the characteristics of the driver and adjusts the shifts accordingly. This procedure clears the learning the computer has done and starts over. I did this every morning for a week and now my transmission shifts 99% better then before. Basically you are driving like a little old lady and the transmission is shifting as such. You may also consider a transmission fluid and transmission filter, yes there is a filter, change. The dealer may refuse to perform the service saying that it is a sealed unit with a lifetime fluid, but this is B.S. There is no such thing as a "lifetime fluid" and it should be changed every 50,000 miles or so. I have done this and it made a world of difference. Other people have had to change the transmission computer and this fixed there problem. This is the same ZF transmission used in some BMW's and the BMW's don't share this problem. So it is almost definitely a computer problem. Hope this helps some people out there. Audi really is a good car once you learn a bit about them. Thanks for reading and have a nice day.
I own a 2000 A6 Audi 2.8. I bought it new and I now have 128,000 miles on the car. I have not experienced any of the problems that you have been experiencing. I've not had problems with the car pausing upon acceleration, even when in the same situation you describe, and have never needed a new converter.
This is not to say that the car had been perfect. I needed new ball joints and controller arms at 100,000 miles, as well as new CV boots. I also recently installed a rebuilt ABS computer when the original one died. But, that's been about it.
I really have enjoyed my car and plan on keeping it for many more years. I can only suggest to you that your repair facility may not be serving you properly.
I have a 2000 Audi A6 and have had to do quite a bit of work, on it, but it had past the 120k mile mark where a lot of people comment on problems, I replace the cv boot, recently and the ABS sensor has come on, most likely due to the replacement of the joint. Does anyone know how to replace or make the light turn off? and if not how much has some one been charged by an Audi dealer to replace it?
The problems with the Audi Tiptronic transmission are widely known. It hesitates from a zero start. I would not buy an Audi again. This is a dangerous situation. The power is not there when you need it most.
Hi, I have an A6 2.7 2000 Quatro and the check engine light turned "ON" after I passed a fluding road. I checked the error and it was a problem on the catalytic converter or on its sensor. What I observed is the gas consumption has gone up. It is possible this problem to affect the gas consumption?
Should I change this part?
I have a 1996 Audi A6 (2.8L)...it's now approaching 163,000 miles and still a joy to drive. I have probably over-maintained the car--replacing parts before they fail--and, I suspect, I have been lucky. My particular car has aged better than much newer A6s I have considered buying. I have owned a 733 BMW, a Volvo, three VWs, but the Audi has been the most reliable (not perfect!) of the bunch.
That said, I have spent thousands on both repairs and maint. Anyone who thinks a timing belt won't eventually break is just stupid. I've replaced mine twice---do it before it breaks! It's stranded me only once, with a failed radiator thermostat, probably a $10 part. I never take the car to the organized crime syndicate dealership for repairs--I have a great independent shop near my work. I know I will have to replace the 12 year old Audi at some point, but not just yet...
I have a 1998 Audi A6 with 79000 miles on it. I used to own a 1991 Audi 100 that I drove for 50,000 miles to 126k. My A6 was driven by my dad for over 40,000 miles.
On Sunday, I pulled out of my apartment parking lot and my transmission broke. After having it towed to the dealer they quoted me a staggering $8,000! I don't exactly abuse my car and neither did my dad. I'm a little disappointed at such a blatant lack of quality.
If anybody thinks something else happened please do tell. Basically I hit the gas to pull out, heard a bang/thud and then the car behaves like it's in neutral. I turn the car off and back on, tried to shift it manually using tip-tonic and just setting the gear, but no go. Finally I put it in reverse backed it up into the parking lot and called a tow truck.
I have a A6 2.7t and have had many many problems with it. To start the dash lights were the first to go at only 87,000,next the air bag light came on and ended up being a loose wire. (Factory error),Next the air flow sensor went out at 93,000 $160.00 part replaced my self. Now the rear diff case is grinding this will be in the $4,000s to get fixed. Will never own another Audi.
1996 A6 Quattro Avant. I owe this car for about 7years. it has 140k miles and luckly didn't have to invest too much in repairs. CV boots and timing belt are just normal service repairs and they needs to be done on any car. What is really driving me mad (from time to time) is the slow response in acceleration. I know that the Audi transmission is the "learning" kind, and adjusts shifting to the driving pattern based on last several hours or so, or at least from the last time key was turned ON. I noticed, if I start driving very hard from the start, the car will be shifting at much higher RPMs. Then, even in slow traffic situations it will drag 2nd gear through the city for much to long before upshifting. If I start slow from the morning, then that's how it goes for the rest of the day. So, I learned to mix the driving, stepping on throttle from time to time and it works. I also noticed, that slowlines in transmission shifting changed dramatically after oil change. Do change oil and filter every 30-40k miles! It can save a lot of money later.
I have an Audi A6 1998 and the "thump" in the transmission is clear. I guess this is a common issue with this Tiptronic transmission. But I love the car anyway. My concern is: may this "thump" lead the transmission to brake or is nothing but an eventual annoying situation?
I own a 1998 A6 2.8 that I bought certified pre-owned with 40K miles in 2001. I now have 131,000 miles, mostly freeway driven. The car has been an absolute pleasure to drive. Major repairs include: replacing the upper guide links, tie rod ends, instrument cluster display, rear wheel bearing and window regulators (all under the extended warranty). While the car now leaks oil especially in the winter, I have not replaced any major seals. At 105,000 miles, I replaced the timing belt, water pump and valve cover gaskets as routine maintenance. At the same time, I had the CV axles replaced as they were torn. The total cost of my 105,000 mile repairs was approximately $2000.
While my 98 A6 looks great and works perfectly (with the exception of a broken water temperature gauge), I am concerned that the car is getting up in miles and will require major repairs should something break. Also, the brakes have never been that responsive despite changing brake pads at 55,000 miles and rotors at 80,000 miles. I average 22.5 MPG on regular 87 octane.
I'm torn between driving my car for another 12,000 miles or buying a pre-owned A8. Any advice?