2000 Audi A6 from North America - Comments

8th Apr 2009, 12:06

Hello,

I just got a pre-owned A6 3.0 2002, and I have the Chk engine light flashing from day 1, too bad cannot go to the dealer as I bought it in an AS-IS agreement.

I just love my car, it runs really smooth & is a beauty all the way.

I have a couple of issues I would like people to help me on:

1. The most common thump on acceleration, what to do to prevent it.

2. Just got the timing belt and water pump replaced, but seems like the OBD-II indicator says it needs a new right cat. converter, where should I go in for it & how much does it cost to get a new one? I need your suggestions ASAP.

Also, any other maintenance tips are most welcome.

26th Jun 2009, 16:11

I have a 2000 A6 2.7T and I've had it since 60k miles, Now it has 133,500k miles. I have replaced both front axles, water pump, timing belt, driver's window motor, gaskets and regular brake sensors, pads and disks, turbo lines and now the turbo's are leaking small drops, my mechanic said it should give me another 70k miles until I need to replace the turbo's. Anyone knows anything about this?.

Overall happy with the car, regular maintenance I guess. I have never had a car this long before trading in for a new one. I have enjoyed the car a lot. Thank you.

27th Jan 2010, 13:23

I'm gonna say this.

2 Audis - 1 flawless until accident (totaled), 2000 A6. The other, 1999 A6, won't idle, has the ABS light and check engine light on, both under 100,000 miles.

1 Acura CL-S - 175,000 miles, had a transmission recall at 54,000. Tires, brakes, and oil changes, that's it.

Sad to say the Acura isn't all wheel drive and doesn't have a heated steering wheel.

After working on and owning Audis, I will never own another.

29th Aug 2010, 11:37

Thinking about getting a 2.7t. From these posts I understand stay away from the auto.

3rd Nov 2010, 19:29

Bought my 2000 Audi A6 2.8L when it had 68000 miles. Now it is at 122000 and the tranny is acting really weird. After talking to several transmission shops, I found out that it is better not to change the fluid. I don't think that I believe that. The biggest problem is when I'm making a left turn. It seems to skip a gear when I start accelerating mid way through the turn. It almost feels like it goes to neutral, the rpms grow but the car does not move any faster. The worst thing is that it jumps into gear soon after, and if I'm not careful, there is a huge thump. One time I thought the car was done after it happened. Now I just roll the car through the turn until I'm going straight again. I'm not sure if I am right about my theory that it is the tranny, because I never experienced this making a right turn. I would love to get some feedback on this thanks.

6th Nov 2011, 01:32

You can get an auto, but half of these complaints can be linked to very poor driving style, and the other half is regular maintenance.

I have 01 2.7t with 111k. The only mechanical problem is that it needs a drive shaft support bearing. Other than that, it drives and rides nice. People just need to learn good driving habits, especially with turbo'd cars. You shouldn't get on a turbo car until it starts warming up, or you'll run into engine problems guaranteed.

Short brake life?... Brake sooner rather than at the last minute... problem solved.

Tire wear? Buy good tires!! Not cheap Walmart brands. Bridgestone's or Goodyear's go for a long way.

Seriously, good driving habits can save you big time money.

7th Apr 2014, 22:08

2006 A6 Quattro.

Same thing you described with the hard shifting and thumping. What I found out about Audi is that they are over engineered, in that the cars are over controlled by computers and sensors. If your gas cap is not making a good seal or tight, it can cause the problem. Or it might be the purge valve. Bottom line is vacuum leaks either in the fuel system venting or on the engine itself... and usually associated with either the exhaust system fresh air pumps / valves / hoses or with the throttle body area. They are so over engineered that a rough idle or miss in the engine can cause the transmission to shift like it was failing... AND... believe it or not... a rough idle can affect the electrical system due to an alternator cycling and thus affect the computers. And get ready for this... it can even cause your LED brake lights to fail... and the MMI system to cycle / reboot... crazy stuff, but that is the result of too many eggs in the computer and sensor controls taking common sense out of the equation.

Hope it helps.

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