Comments: 1-15, 16-22
Less than 24 hours after I bought this car my check engine light came on. I called the dealership I bought it at and was asked if I had "checked the engine".
This was just the first of many things to go wrong. I have owned this car for 7 months and it is in the shop more than out of it.
So far my turbos have gone out, window motors have gone out, my ball joints need to be replaced, the check engine light has came back on (but I was told that it had to come on again before they could replace the part that caused it to come on).
My car is now back at the dealership after it failed to start leaving my husband stranded nearly a hour and a half away.
This is the second time this has happened. The last time it had to be towed in for this problem I was told that it was a "brain fart" and they have never seen it happen before.
I do have to admit that I love the way this car handles and all the options it comes with.
However I am very sick of it always being in the shop.
I have complained to Audi and never gotten a response. A call would at least be nice.
I will never buy a Audi again. The mechanical problems far outweigh the luxury options that I like so much.
For what I payed for this car I never would have believed that there customer service would be this bad.
In reading your review, it's like you lived my life. Every problem you referenced, I experienced, including Audi's lack of caring. The car handles like a dream, but overall owning this car was still a nightmare.
Dave
Calgary, Canada.
I have the 2000 A6 2.7T. I too was in the dang stealership week after week after week. The problem isn't so much your car, as it is your mechanic. Get an audi-specializing, performance, NON-DEALERSHIP mechanic and your problems will likely go away. Then you, like me, can resume getting goose-bumps every time you punch it in your 2.7T. My car was in the shop literally once a month, for a few days at a time. Now it's problem free (since I found a *real* mechanic) and I am still completely and totally hooked!!!
Just how will you find an Audi specialized, non-dealership repair shop? My car has been with the dealer for longer than I had it this year. I'd love to find a good mechanic.
There are VAG specialists located all over the place, the trouble is finding one that you can trust - even specialist non-dealership garages can be just as bad... if not worse! I have an 2002 Audi A6 1.9 TDI was bought second hand with 48k on the clock, not had one problem apart from an annoying electric window problem affecting the rear windows - but no mechanical fault. Car has got to go in for new Brake Pads soon, but that's fare wear and tear really - the pads haven't been changed since new. Shes done around 51k now, have to say 51,000 miles on a single set of brake pads is absolutely awesome.
I've had my 2.7T A6 (2001) for approximately 18 months. During this time, I had to replace all electronic parts of the power windows, change the stereo twice, change the dash (a complete new dash was installed by Audi because the digital was fading), and change the head lights. During this same period, my check engine light turned on 7 times with no apparent explanation.
Two days ago, while driving in a shopping mall, the car came to a screeching stop. The wheel pulled to the left and the noise of metals breaking apart drew attention from people approximately 200-300 feet away.
The Audi mechanic just informed me that the drive shaft was broken, which resulted in a series of unfortunate events causing the left wheel to break and pull left and almost causing me an accident with 5 miles/hr. He also mentioned that if this had happened on a freeway, I would have been on the 6-o'clock news.
I am just baffled how the drive shaft on a relatively new car with a low mileage (60,000) could just pop like that. There is no official explanation of how this could have happened. Audi could not give me any answers.
The cost for this treat: $1,800.
Given all my troubles with this car, I would strongly recommend everyone to stay away from Audi.
The car almost killed me and I am still stuck with the bill. The least they could offer me was to pay for the repair, not that I am ever going to drive this piece of junk anywhere else.
I have had small to serious issues with my 2003 Audi A4 Avant since the day I drove it off of the lot. Not what I expected for a vehicle I leased for nearly $600 per month. BUT, since I love the way she looks and handles, AND, until recently all was covered under warranty, I have not made a big stink.
The latest debacle was an engine oil sludge issue which was identified and handled, but definitely raised more than a little bit of concern over the quality of parts used to construct this supposed "luxury" vehicle - which has spent so much time at the dealership for all of these issues that I am on a first name basis with the entire service staff AND the gentleman who doles out the loaner cars (which are Hondas, of course...).
Now, with only 70,000 miles on my vehicle, I brought her in for her 70K checkup only to find that I have a "major" coolant leak in 2 separate areas, my temperature sensor is blown, and the dealership recommends replacing the timing belt (b/c, according to them, they seem to be wearing more quickly than they should). In addition, the switch for my sunroof (which seems to have a ghost in the machine when I attempt to close it) needs replacing. Total cost of repairs totalling nearly $1500+. I have refused to pay one dime and have brought the issues to Audi USA's attention. I don't believe that this is normal wear and tear on a vehicle of this supposed caliber. I am awaiting resolution, and until then, my vehicle will remain at the dealership.
I have a 2001 Audi A6 with 4.2 V8 which I bought not for the extra power, but because the mechanics at the Audi dealership told me it was the most reliable A6 engine. The only problem I have had with this car is the output seal on the transmission (shaft to the rear wheels) started leaking. It appears this is a common problem as it also happened to a friend on his A4. I found a web site with very good instructions on how to replace the seal. It is a difficult repair and took me about 6 hours to complete. The seal is made in France and cost only $19 at the Audi dealer, but I also needed a liter of transmission oil and 6 new drive shaft bolts (recommended not required) bringing the total to about $70 just for parts. My friend with the A6 paid about $400 to have his done at the Audi dealer. It would be so nice if Audi would find a better source for this seal.
My oil light recently went on in my Audi 2001 A4, and the dealer I took it too quoted me $1,000-$1,200 to fix it before they even looked at it! I thought once again "Just like Audi," and once again repeated my Mantra: "What ever possessed me to buy this hunk of junk?%$#@!"
This post is intended for anyone considering buying an Audi in the future. DON'T DO IT, unless you are committed to living without your car for weeks at a time (repair shop time) and sinking tens of thousands--and I mean in the high tens of thousands of dollars--in repair bills. There is no handling worth the problems that come with this vehicle and this brand. My service experience with Audi and its dealerships over the past seven years has been horrendous, similar to most of your comments. The dealerships are snooty and inconsiderate (Hey I'm the customer!!!), and they always quote you the most expensive repair first. It is so obvious that Audi's R&D for a driving machine is good, but its service is the pits. Maybe they should only market race cars for professional use? We like driving our Audis, but we don't ever want to rely on them. Finding an honest mechanic is a joke, especially if you are a woman.
I have now found out that in 2004 Audi issued a memo that tells Audi drivers to use only synthetic oil, but if you have a 2001, and didn't use synthetic oil, like the memo cautions between 2001 and 2004, your in for a real whopper of a repair. I just want to say thanks Audi, and thanks for standing behind your product. I want a Toyota!!! You would think in this day and age that dropping $30K on a piece of machinery would buy you something besides headaches, endless expense and being left stranded on the side of the road. I get no reward for caring meticulously for my car since I've purchased it. I do get to drive my husband's Ford Trucks as I decide what to do with the pit in my stomach and the piece of junk in the driveway named AUDI!
Now I should say some things about my Audi A6 1998.
It is been serviced every 5000 miles, with the oil changed on time. But I had every problem listed on this site since I got that damn car. Two days ago I just turned off my window sensors because they were going up and down themselves.
Now, when I went to an Audi dealer, they could not do anything. What's more frustrating is that I knew more about my car then the certified Audi mechanic; how awful is that?
I was going to by a new Audi A6, but since the customer care at Audi is just awful, I bought a BMW 530i 2007 that comes with 4 years of free service.
P.S Audi should say something to all of us. I would strongly advise Audi to rethink their way of doing business.
Hi everyone, I was just googling for a repair manual on my A6 2.7T and stumbled across this site. I have an 01 BTW, and its my 2nd audi. I had a 98 A4 2.8V6. I loved the car.. but had to agree with everyone, it was ALWAYS in the shop for the 4 yrs that I owned it. I swear every other month it was another $700 repair bill. Luckily our Audi dealer is ranked very high for customer satisfaction and I personally know my service writer. But it had a horrible transmission problem, electrical, you name it, I think by the time I got done. I rebuilt the whole A4. But they lent be an A6 2.7T one weekend, and I was HOOKED.
I found a reputable used car place who had an exact one of what I was looking for, and for a good price. I literally picked up my A4..drove to the other dealer and traded it in. I have had my A6 for 3 yrs now and I have to say I'm shocked to hear all the problems people have had. The only problem I had was 2 yrs ago, the drive shaft was leaking.. so I took it in and they put in a whole new system, $1100.00. Other than that. I have put on a new set of Brake pads and rotors all around (The previous owner was hard on them). I do have a small transmission leak which even a transmission specialists says would cost more to try and FIND it, than to put in the 2 qtrs it drips every 6 mos.
The car has always started, and is awesome in the snow. I live in New England and this past winter people were stuck everywhere and I was out and about. Within the last 3 mos. I have developed this horrible squeaking sound in the passenger front end when you turn or hit bumps. Like it needs to be lubed. But I hit a very VERY bad pothole in the spring and now the same side sounds like I might have cracked a control arm. Its due for its timing belt change, and getting ready to flip over to 100K. I have a few small annoying things that have gone wrong.. nothing that would warranty a dealer trip. My digital display is fading, the auto dimming mirror stopped. and my "low washer fluid" sensor stays on all the time, even when full (so tired of that spraying symbol). Other than that, the car runs like brand new. It has only every had synthetic oil at 7000k intervals. I have the oil system flushed every other oil change. The turbos run strong and it doesn't have a scratch or spot of rust on it. Still looks brand new.
I have thought about trading it in, But the looks and handling and that twin turbo. Still plants you in the seat. I'm hoping after reading all of the comments that I'm not in for bigger headaches, this car has been one of the best I've every owned.
And another unsatisfied customer of Audi A6 2.7T.
Check engine light - no one knows why, it comes and goes
Pass. side window motor - is going bad
Front left knuckle - was bent more than it should (1 degree negative)
Both front upper control arms - had to be changed
Shocks - changed.
Other than that, no problem. Will not buy another 2.7T again.
BMW beats Audi hands down. NEVER AGAIN...
I bought my Audi A6 2003 2.7T pre-certified about two years ago and it too had a number of these problems. After driving for about 1000 miles the turbos had to be replaced. That was a $2700 repair. Other repairs include replacing the water pump for $800 and fixing the window motors ($500). All these were covered under warranty. Now the check engine light is on and the car is no longer under warranty. I'm dreading what it will cost me to fix this issue or whether it's just an electrical problem. I love driving my car, especially with the turbos but with this reliability issue, Audi will be one of the last manufacturers I'll consider for my next car.
I have a 97 Audi A6Q. Bought it used from the dealer and it has never been back there. I have a great small garage that does a great job and the few parts they have replaced are all aftermarket when ever possible.
When I bought the car, the service manager was telling me these cars are very expensive to fix, blah blah blah; they're screwing most people. Try the little guy on the corner that has these cars or BMWs, Benzs on their lots, and ask the people that get their cars fixed there or the mechanics.
I purchased a 2001 A6 2.7T with 70k miles on it three years ago. I now have 112k. By and large it has been very reliable. Always starts, got over 27mpg on a recent road trip. 33.4mpg on flat highway trip this weekend - very cool.
I spent about $1,800 at 85k to replace timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, front control arms. Most of this was required interval maintenance.
What I read here from everyone with major issues, is that they have not found a good "non-dealer" mechanic. Audi dealer would have charged me $3,000 for the same work. Don't bother with them once you are out of warranty. It's that way with every dealership I ever worked with, not just Audi.
Make some calls and find someone who will take the time to talk with you. An Audi is not a Honda. A Honda coupe will not fit my family in comfort and performance like my A6. It kicks --- in the snow, awesome, not even my Subaru turbo was this fun.
In regards to the check engine light, sounds like a typical issue. My mechanic took the codes and reset it several times, finding nothing wrong. It comes on and off, I live with it. It's mostly about emission control anyway (I believe).
The power window controls also appear to be a common complaint. My passenger side window seemed to have a mind of its own for awhile. But the problem went away.
I did have a water pump go out. Turns out there are two on the 2.7, an electric one underneath that cools the turbos after engine is off.
Overall, this is a luxury performance car, which you will spend some money on (several friends warned me repairs were not cheap). Sorry for all who have been abused by their dealer.
I have owned two audi a6's 1998 2.8 v6 and a 2001 4.2 v8. I got the 2.8 at 65000 and the 4.2 at 39000. Ball joints are an issue with these cars depending on you driving style and the previous owners'. These cars are built to higher standards, as all other german cars are, than the average vehicle. YOU MUST service them at the recomended intervals so you do not come across costly problems. If there is something wrong you are better off fixing it before it gets worse and damaged other components. You cannot bring them to normal shops because they do not opereate to the level that audi requires and they end up damaging your car and costing you more money than getting it fixed the proper way.
These cars are not city cars either, they are strong built high speed cruisers and they are impractical for city driving. It kills me to hear people say that their a6 is a bad car and they have problems. For the most part if you are a new audi owner you can't tell if something is wrong beacuse they are so well built that they still ride better and handle better then normal cars so if you are ignorant to your car you will cost yourself money and make a bad name for the car when it's not the car's fault.
FYI: I grazed a tree with the 2.8 at 45mph in the snow and totaled the car. No one was wearing seatbelts and the car was solid and we didn't know the extent of the damage until we looked at it. It pushed the front passenger wheel in and toward the back and it still rode straight and I was able to drive it home 300 miles at 75mph (after checking all the mechanical components). You cannot do that in a japanese car.
In the 4.2 I hit a curb going 35 in Philli and it turned the wheels into it trying to get over it but still pushing forward. I had two mechanics in the back seat and they both thought we were screwed. They said their own cars would have lost a front wheel. 15 minutes later I was on the Atlantic City expressway going 95 and nothing was wrong. I even lifted the car when I got home and found nothing wrong, not even a tie rod end or ball joint.
YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BUYING AND WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO USE THE CAR FOR.
I've notice with both vehicles is that they shine at 85 and over. They settle on highway turns at 120- 130 better than at 65 if you know what you are doing. I don't recomend doing that because there is more to driving that what most think.
I bought the 4.2 from some no name used car dealer. Carfax was clean but there was a clear weld mark across the passenger rear C-pillar and some cosmetic allignment issues. The transmission had a dent in the pan and tree bark stuck around it. There were horrible attempts to weld the rims back togther from cracks. Further proving that some people should not be allowed drive these cars or work on them.
It may sound like i am a bad driver but those are the only accidents that i was involved in and both were partially because of pushing the limits of the car and myself. The first i hit a patch of ice the second i it was 3:ooam on a rainy low visibility night in the philli toward the end of my straight drive from Panama City, Florida.