21st Jun 2011, 18:13

What was the name of the web site that gave you the directions to replace the seal?

5th Jun 2013, 05:37

Having owned Audi my entire life, and also having worked on them myself, I can say honestly they are a great car. Each model line has its own set of quirks. For example, in the 80's the 5000/200's had issues with the door handles breaking and the power window switches.

However, they are a great car when you approach things logically. That means, if you're buying one used, learn all about what typically goes wrong for THAT MODEL, and expect that at some point you might have to have it fixed or fix it yourself.

Also look at the complexity level of the car. Those of you complaining about the A6 2.7t, it's the absolute most complex car Audi made in that generation. I own one, and it's a daunting car to keep up and running in perfect shape. My previous car was a 98 A6 2.8 V6. I had that car through 280,000 miles. Again, the complexity level of the car made a big difference. The more gadgets and technically advanced the car is, the more you will have to maintain.

28th Sep 2015, 16:30

Okay, so I am at the first stage of repairing my 2001 Audi A6 2.7T Quattro Sedan, and here are the first main problems I figured out under the hood that go bad and turn on your check engine light.

1. ICM ignition coil docking station is the worst in all manufactured Audis. The ICM is the 2 sides of the engine with 3 ignition coils on them. Not only are the coils nowhere near easy to remove (especially if you have never worked on ignition coils), but they are easy to ruin because of the fact they are not placed the proper way. Normally ignition coils are easy to locate, and remove/replace so you can replace the spark plugs if need be, but the way these are displayed under the hood, it is near impossible to get the leverage needed to remove the coils without damaging the brake lines, or damaging a working coil. They have an ICM direct ignition coil system, and that means you can't disconnect the ignition wire from the coil, and instead of being aligned from under the outside in (proper way), the way the other 6 cylinders are, they come from up the inside and out, rubbing against the middle engine housing. This creates a tight squeeze where they can easily get stuck, because the wire is bent in an awkward way, and the lines are closer to the engine, so more heat and easier to ruin. Luckily there is a ICM delete kit, which converts into a normal ignition pattern - easier to operate on, and less likely to be damaged. It also swaps the direct ignition coil setup to the standard ignition coil setup. I am thinking of buying one; they are around $250 U.S. from what I've seen, but if you go to eBay, you could probably find a used one for way cheaper.

2. The air intake sensors. These are a normal problem for older cars that haven't been properly maintained and upgraded. This is usually located on the driver's side, and in the back. This is one of the most common reasons for the check engine light to annoy you. What this part is, is the computer chip that regulates and records how much air is going into your engine, and can be sending wrong signals if it is even slightly dirty. I recommend if your check engine light is on, check the air intake sensor; for that matter check all of the various sensors. Right now I'm cleaning my AIS and my O2 sensors. O2 sensors are relatively universal in the A6 2.7T and all cars for that matter. There will be a downstream left O2 sensor and a downstream right. Inexpensive to replace, and easy to replace. O2 sensors regulate the oxygen gas mixture, and with a bad O2 sensor, your car could be running rich. It's common in all cars that most problems that affect performance are malfunctioning parts that deal with air regulation, and filtration. So remember to change your filters too.

3. Less of a problem you can't avoid, turbo oil change. I meet so many people that break their turbo from ignoring it as being one of the most important parts, and most expensive part in the 2001 Audi A6. The turbo is probably the hottest part under your hood, and if you don't have proper oil changes, then your turbo is not getting proper oil changes. I.E. If you're running low on oil, so is your turbo. Always change the oil in the turbo when you get a routine oil change. If you don't, you'll see a noticeable performance drop, and could even crack the the turbo shell or bearings from the extreme dry heat. This doesn't only run the risk of destroying your turbo, but also parts around it, because they are in contact with a supercharged turbo engine that can't cool down properly.