Another update: I now have 132,500 miles on my park avenue. I installed a cd player myself a few months ago and a new front speaker from the junkyard. The car still has preformed good. No mechanical problems.I've even took it past the 100 mph mark on a few occasions. The only thing that lets you know your going 100mph in this car is the road noise and it still has passing power at that speed, and the handling is still pretty good. The only problem I have now is that the paint is chipping probably mostly my fault and I put a nice little dent in the back passenger door. Also has anyone had problems with the power recliner seat on the passenger side? I replaced the motor, that didn't work, and the switch, that didn't work either. I probably be updating soon on things I haven't mention in this comment.
I sold my 94 Park Ave not long ago with 231,000 miles on it, and she ran beautifully. Someone just made me a cash offer on the car and it was good one so I sold it. No rust and ran wonderfully on the original drivetrain. was always wintered in the south and was original except wear and tear items. Park Aves are a tough car; don't let it go! I also had a LeSabre with the EGR problem; I got a used from the wreckers and it solved the problem for good. I just bought a 96 to replace it and hope its as good; it's only got 159,000miles on it. If you ever have a ABS/Traction control problem change the wheel bearings in the front it will solve any issue (I've noticed). as for vibration for future reference just have all 4 tires balanced and it should solve any vibration issue you have. I also don't drive the supercharged models due to additional problems family members have had with them.
I have a 95 Park Ave. I bought it last year for $3000, it only had 64000 miles on it and the body is in great condition. It now has 84000 on it and runs great. Recently I have been considering trading it in on a new car, taken a few test drives, but I'm now thinking why get a new car with huge payments, nothing I have tested so far comes close to the power of the ol' Buick. I'm sort of stuck now I really don't know what I should do!! The only problems I have had so far was some hesitation, but replaced the plugs and that fixed that.
I recently bought a 95 Park Avenue. When I bought it from my uncle he told me that the battery light stays on while driving and it stays above the halfway mark. Then you can be in your house and at random points the lights will turn on for no reason with nobody even near the car. Well the last two days I have come out and my battery has been dead... but when I bought it I went and had my battery tested and the battery was fine... but it was running about 185 volts instead of like 150 or something like that... what could this be?
If the battery light is on while you're driving, that means that the car is drawing power from the battery and not the alternator, so you should get your alternator tested.
As for the light issue, I don't what to tell you. I can say though, if you have your twilight sentimental timer set for to where it stays on for a long time after your car turns off, it could do some funny stuff. I had mine set for a long time one time and the lights wouldn't cut off until I pulled the fuse.
I did take off the alternator the other day and went and had it tested the alternator is fine and then I went and had my battery tested and it is fine. So I took out the fuse to all the interior lights. seems to be fine for now, but I am thinking it might be an electrical problem. grrr.
I just got some info on your light issue. Were were watching a video in my electrical class talking about security systems in GM cars. The security module is probably bad. It controls the security, interior lights, door chime and a couple of other things. One of the lights in the trunk or glove box could be grounding which would override the module shut down mode for the lights. But since its intermediate you should check the door swithces they could corroded and cause the lights to come on at anytime. Hope it help at least pinpoint the problem.
I have a 95 Park Ave and I totally love it. Only one problem... When I crank the car and let it idle in park, the voltage meter moves from a little past halfway down to the red zone. When I get to driving on the road, it will generally stay at an acceptable voltage while accelerating, but as I stop at a light or stop sign, the voltage will power down to the red and sometimes the car will completely cut off. It will usually crank right back up, but sometimes it takes 10-15 minutes to turn over.
I bought a new battery, a re-manufactured alternator, and changed the ignition coil. This all started from me taking the climate control fuse in and out, because the control had a mind of its own because it was broken. The fuse is out now, but it has nothing to do with the voltage. Please help if you can.
To comment 21:29 I'm having issues with my alternator. It hasn't completely bowed yet, but I'm waiting for it to go out any day.
As for the voltage fluctuation when at idle, it may be your current alternator. Most alternators run better at driving rpm rather than idle. You could also have a big voltage drop somewhere or your PCM could be failing. There are many variables.
I hope mine doesn't give me to much trouble though. Wish I could help more.
Another update: its been a while since I posted, but since then I've done a couple of things.
I replaced my alternator, and I've gotten a paint job. The car looks much better now.
Next I have to get a new PCM because my other one is malfunctioning, well the part that controls the alternator is. $100 more dollars and I'm done investing in the park for a while. Well I do plan on changing the transmission fluid.
She stills runs like a champ though. I was driving the other day and noticed a rattling sound. I thought it was m car but it wasn't. She still sounds like a new car, even with 138,000 miles on her. I attribute that to good maintenance mostly.
Could someone please tell how to replace the coolant level sensor on a 95 Buick Park Ave. I inherited this car from my mom and I plan on fully restoring it.
It's inserted into the radiator. Just unclip the wire harness to it, and twist it and pull the sensor out of the radiator. Expect a substantial amount of coolant to come out.
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