18th Jul 2008, 17:35
Wife's 'gently driven' 2002 De Ville DTS with 55,000 miles is a disaster, in spite of regular dealer service routine.
Will never touch another GM vehicle.
Engineering is sloppy.
Already spent $12,000 on Cadillac's usual failures:
Code P0741 Torque Converter / Solenoid failure
Replace front engine mount (cracked)
Acid from battery corroding floor pan under rear seat
Power Steering Pump
A/C evac recharge system
Most importantly after re-balancing and aligning frequently, the car will still not drive at 65 without horrible vibration. Dealer has no solution. Based on the blogs, it's widespread and must be the engineering, but GM will not come clean and describe the technical reason for this fundamental failure in design.
Do not buy a used (or new) Cadillac.
GM is a sinking ship run by incompetent overpaid executives who deserve their looming bankruptcy.
26th Jul 2008, 13:16
Well, I guess I am one of the lucky ones. Have a 04 De ville with 30.000 on it. No vibration problems at present, the only complaint I have at this time is transmission gear noise, especially at speeds below 25. The dealer just discovered a faulty engine mount, and will take care of it. Any one experience gear noise?
2nd Oct 2008, 23:17
I have a 2000 Seville SLS, purchased in Oct 07. Nice car, smooth ride... but, I have the shimmy/shaking that doesn't go away. Had to replace the steering wheel positioning sensor, crankshaft position sensors, and now... the TCC... man, is it really 2K bucks? Holy crap. I suppose there is no easy way to fix it for a do it yourselfer?
Anyway, car runs like a dream... except for the aforementioned issues. Has about 65K on it right now. Anyone have an idea how long you can drive with the torque converter code before messing something else up?
12th Oct 2008, 19:55
I have a 2003 Cadillac DTS, which I bought early 2008 with about 80,000 miles on it.
A few weeks after I bought it, it was lurching on the highway. Then it started stalling in traffic, mostly when coming to a stop or a turn at slow speeds, but occasionally when going about 60. The battery light always precedes this, and just recently the check engine light has come on. It does this almost everyday during cold weather, but frequent stalls also when warmer.
When I first got it, the dealer looked at it for a couple days but could find nothing wrong. I suspect it may be the engine computer as sensors were replaced and did not help. As the dealer charged me $1300 for a brake job on the car to get inspected so I could purchase it, and I've no warranty, not good.
19th Nov 2008, 16:06
I have read everyone of the 138 postings on this page and found them to very informative and valuable to me as a professional auto-tech.
Vibration, and shimmy at 65-70mph is a common complaint. If tires have been replaced/balanced. Steering linkages and wheel bearings checked. Then my conclusion the problem exists in the trans/axle. Not necessarily the transmission, but the axel side, which is the differential in a front wheel drive car. This combined with the torque converter defect is why these cars have such a high transmission failure rate.
Cuts out/stalls especially at low speeds. Engine codes P0335, and/or P0385 crank position sensor 'A' or 'B'. Seems that replacing these 2-sensors has corrected the stalling problem in almost all cases.
Thank You, Cavemanautomike@yahoo.com.
8th Dec 2008, 20:31
2000 Deville DHS - Purchased new, well maintained, now has 195K miles. I haven't heard any complaints about the water cooled alternator. I have replaced 2 at a cost of $1200 each.
As for the window regulators, I have replaced 3 out of 4, the 4th one failed, but I refused to pay the ridiculous price for the assembly (I had been replacing them myself in less than an hour).
Disconnected the window and blocked it in the up position.
How about shrinking dashboards?
Broken motor mounts and the latest - the "3rd" rear brake lights are on backorder at the factory for over 5 mos. with no promised ship date.
I also have to have both front wheel Brg. hubs replaced, has anyone used aftermarket hubs with good results?
Have not experienced the vibration and or sensor problems, maybe I don't have it so bad after all!!!
6th Jan 2009, 17:20
2000 Cadillac Deville, bought used with 120,000 miles one month ago. Beautiful car, beautiful ride, but alas, the General Motors lack of quality never fails. The car stalls at red lights, and when slowing down or making slow turns. From Internet research, I believe it's gonna be the crankshaft position sensors, a $500 job at the dealer, $300 dollars at any other location.
Sometimes I smell something burning under the hood, the ACC crackles like popcorn, the standard stereo speakers crackle like popcorn.
In fairness, just about any luxury car these days is gonna cost money when stuff breaks, but General Motors seems to specialize in this.
I'm gonna fix the Cadillac, park it and get me a used truck as a every day car, and hope the Cadillac just cranks up on the weekend.
11th Jan 2009, 14:40
I have a 2000 DeVille. Had 30000 when I got it, 65000 now, my wife came home from church today and the service soon light is on, and it's chugging a little. So I found this site looking for the problem, and read all of the input from other owners, glad I did!! Going to trade it in first thing in the morning, too bad though, really like the car.
20th Jan 2009, 15:12
FYI, I wrote about my traction control problems a few weeks ago, It turns out it was a burnt out LED in the third tail light. Cost much more for the part than it should have, but since it's been fixed the problem is gone. And my garage took mercy on me & put it in for nothing.
2nd Feb 2009, 00:22
Well I just got a 2000 DeVille, and I have the shaking when at a cruising speed of 60 to 70 mph.. and I've have had one stall, and something that felt like the car jumped or had a spark plug miss or something.. I have to get my motor mounted; don't know if it's the 2 front ones, the side or the transmission mount..
Oh yeah, and I have the shrinking dash board too, and my low coolant and my service engine light is on; a lot of problems huh?..
It's a good ass car, but it's a lot to fix, but once everything is done it's gonna be all graaaaavy!
9th Feb 2009, 15:31
Mine is a 93 60 Special (essentially a De Ville). Have fought the 70 mph shimmy since buying in 95 with 20K miles. Problem became noticeable at about 50K, although extreme sensitivity to tire choice and balance was noticed at 35K.
An episode at 90K shed MUCH light on the problem. Left front tire developed a huge blister (inner side). On driving out of a gas station near the end of a 1600 mile run, the whole front end began to heave back and forth. I couldn't see the defect, so carefully got under way and the problem was minimal.
Have since researched steering - especially air in cylinder of rack and pinion. No, or poor bleeding, leads directly to the problem. I believe there is something about the GM steering pump system that permits air to be dispersed in the oil easily, e.g. leakage around pump rotor. I first tested this by turning the wheel to stops while moving slowly ahead. Sure enough, one side (full left turn) was very soft. I put some pressure on the wheel until I could feel the stop. The problem went away and the car steered as nicely as you could expect.
I went through two sets of front rotors over time because the problem is noticeable on braking. I think the problem could lead to rotor warp. I am able to live with the "problem" by occasional bleeding, but believe the air buildup is inherent in the power steering system design.
When I see the HUGE number of "70 mph" shimmy complaints and the many futile attempts to cure the problem, I am surprised that no one else has proposed this cause. Because the degree of air accumulation controls the degree of softness, the problem can be any degree of problem - like sensitivity to tire make, balance, etc. When my problem went over the top with a major tire blister, it was when I also had a large amount of air trapped in one end of the steering cylinder.
Hope this helps someone.