15th May 2011, 13:07
I have been having the same issues with my new brakes. I am heading back to the garage to replace the front rotors for the third time. It is almost as if the calipers, which had also been replace are causing the rotors to warp. My mechanic is puzzled at this... Were you able to find out what was causing your car brakes to give you problems?
2000DTS driver... 136k.
19th May 2011, 20:19
I bought a new 2000 Deville, and now have 84,000 miles on it. It has really been a pain to own. Early on severe vibration of brakes and front wheels cost me $2500 to fix. Replaced the cheap low carbon brake discs and pads with Brembos to solve that problem. Bought and traded 3 new sets of pricey tires and countless wheel balances, including two force balancings at less than 12 pounds at two dealerships, all failing to stop an intolerable vibration at around 60 MPH and up. After listening to a Caddy mechanic say they were better after they got hot, hit upon the answer and put 54 pounds in them. Have had 9 years of vibration free driving.
Have replaced 4 tie rod ends, both front hubs, replaced both crankshaft sensors twice, right front axle, front motor mount, water pump, cruise control switch, water reservoir tank due to the low water sensor failure, and recently had a quote from the dealer of $3800 to fix a water leak at the end of the cross over pipe and oil leaks at the seam between the block and pan castings. I used Dura Seal stop leak, so far very successfully, to repair the cross over pipe and Dura Seal to stop the oil leak. Time will tell if this was wise, but only cost $149 to try to avoid the $3800 charge.
My dash cover is curling and shrinking because they were too cheap to use UV stabilizers in the vinyl. I installed new plugs at 75,000 miles, and they were really needed.
This is the worst car I have ever owned, but even at 82, I am not too old to love the power and performance, and it sure looks good with the crimson pearl paint, chrome wheels and vinyl top. It still looks like it came from the factory!
19th May 2011, 20:26
Your problem may be low carbon cheap Chinese rotors that will not dissipate the heat and quickly warp. Get someone you trust to be sure you get good ones -- which will cost more.
Another source of your problem may be that your pads are rubbing because you have cylinder problems.
19th May 2011, 20:29
My experience is that you can install without any additional 'adjusting'. Be sure you get them back into their proper holes. Watch for the colors as you remove them!
20th May 2011, 09:07
I own a 2000 Deville. Noticed the vibration; seems fairy common in automatic Devilles. My owners manual clearly states that 87 octane is on the low end. The engine was designed to run on 91 octane or higher. It even says 87 can cause not only rough idle, but stalling and service engine light etc. I know I put 87 in mine once and it ran crummy. There was a strong sulfur odor, and the service light came on. It's been 91 or higher ever since. These are quality engines, and were designed to run on higher grade gas. Also, the manual says you may notice small problems; knocks etc from just changing brands of gas. I love the Northstar V8, but it can be cranky and spoiled. Take care of it, and it will take care of you.
17th May 2012, 15:11
Clean out idle air control valve, replace wheel bearings, replace upper and lower tie rods, replace tires if worn, get an alignment, new oil change, complete fluid flush, replace crankshaft position sensor, replace rims if any are bent, make sure you have no error codes, and remember to change your cabin filter for fresh clean oxygen.
17th May 2012, 15:13
If the tires still wear out, you need to replace the wheel bearings and upper and lower tie rods.
1st Jun 2012, 01:16
Hey, if you're still wondering why your air bag light comes on in your 2000 Deville, email me, it's a quick fix. I know practically everything about these cars. firstname.lastname@example.org
29th Apr 2013, 08:53
My 2001 Deville vibrates at 37 to 50 mph. 55,000 miles on the vehicle. Only does this when the car is warmed up, and only when accelerating between those speeds. Letting up on acceleration, the vibration goes away. New tires, new balance, new alignment, and it is still there. Any suggestions on how to cure the problem? The car is at dealer now and they say it may be the trans? I suggested the inner CV joint. They said they will check it out after they check the transmission.
2nd Sep 2013, 21:17
Bought a 2000 Seville SLS from a collision center - hit on passenger front and fixed - cost 4800 bucks - everything worked.
I replaced the front rotors/brakes, and soon after, I started getting a vibration at 65-70. Sometimes it goes away when warmed up. I am going to replace the brake pads first with semi-metallic, as I put metallic pads on it.
New tires, Yokohama with 50 lbs pressure. I may replace hubs, sway bar links and stabilizer bushings, and check all tie-rods, etc to see if anything is worn.
I am so curious after reading all remarks, just to see what it is causing the vibration, as I didn't have it until I changed rotors/brakes with new ones. Maybe I will try an expensive set this time? Will write when fixed!
30th Oct 2014, 18:30
Hey my car is quoted at $3800 fix for replacing the rear crankshaft, but do you think I could use something like a Blue Devil sealer or something cheaper?
18th May 2015, 02:56
I have a 2004 SLS with 83k miles. Bought used at 40K. At first it was smooth as a whistle at all speeds till about 60K. Now it has the front end vibration at 50 to 65mph. Seems to go away or subside at speeds over 70mph. I also replaced the tires; running Michelin Symmetry tires. Replaced wheel hubs and bearings, rotors and tie rods too. Still does it. A mechanic at a tire garage told me about torque converter vibration. I have not noticed the code for it to show up. 0741?
But I put some Seafoam Trans Tune in my transmission fluid by topping it off... and the front end shimmy is almost unnoticeable now and it noticeably shifts 100% smoother! You can really tell. I am thinking I will get the transmission serviced, fluid changed and tell them to save a quart for the Seafoam Trans Tune to put back in there. Hopefully I can drive it a few more years before I have to replace the TCC solenoid or worse. I am really disappointed in this Cadillac and would not recommend it to anyone. Too many common BS problems that cost lots of money to figure out and fix! Not worth it!
18th May 2015, 23:27
Nowadays you can do a pressure trans flush quickly without even dropping the pan at certain facilities. See your dark trans fluid pushed out entirely, then fresh filtered goes in.
I don't use Seafoam as I don't want to deal with lighting up sensors, then failing emissions. Just do normal fluids in a late model. I stayed away from STP, Marvel Mystery Oil, Kerosene etc. I'd rather change my oil twice with filters than pouring in cure alls. Engine and trans are $. I have used Techtrol or Startron to deal with ethanol. But mainly in my boats, bikes and older classics. With new vehicles, various pour ins kick off sensor lights.