Can anyone help? My car lost power and just coasted, twice in a row. I pumped the gas pedal the first time and it resumed full power, but seconds later, lost power again, and I pulled over and had the car towed to the dealer. The dealer cannot find anything. Did all kinds of diagnostics. I am afraid to drive the car now. I thought crank sensor, but they said it was not that, because they tested fine, and I was able to get the car to resume power without turning the ignition. By the way, I just had the lower crankcase seal replaced.
I have a 2000 DeVille with 206,000 miles on it. It has the shake and vibration at 65 to 75 mph, the service transmission light is on and shifts very hard from park to reverse, and from park to drive, and from 1st gear to 2nd gear.
All engine mounts and transmission mounts are broken, car shakes out of control at high speeds, but all of a sudden stops and rides smooth again.
3 of my windows have stopped operating, trunk pop and fuel door pop stopped working, but all fuses and relays are good.
Daytime running lights work, but don't switch to full lights at night time; instead it says 'Headlamps Suggested' on dashboard.
I need to have crankshaft sensors, 02 sensors, and the mass airflow sensor replaced.
None of the heated seats work, and the air conditioner stopped working all of a sudden. It also says 'Service theft system' every now and then, and my car computer won't talk to the computer at the dealership for diagnostic.
The dashboard is shrinking, and the fuel gauge is either all full or all empty.
Traction light came on due to blown 3rd brake light.
Other than that, the car is great, and it looks excellent. I guess it's good to go ahead and buy one of each part for backup, dealing with GM.
I have a 2000 Deville DHS, which I have owned for 6 years. I have also had some of the problems listed in the previous posts, including window regulators, motor mounts, and vibrations at 65-75 mph. I also had the engine replaced at 140,000 miles on car with a used one last month due too bad head gasket.
The most serious problem I am having now is with the stabilitrak system. When vacationing in Orlando, it is necessary to make very quick u-turns to get anywhere, but the Stabilitrak system engages whenever the steering wheel is turned beyond a certain point above 10 or so mph., causing the front ABS to activate and engine to slow down. And, no, there is no slide condition involved. Other drivers do it with no problems. As the steering wheel is turned back toward center, the system returns to normal.
No codes. No dealer or ASE Technician can figure it out. Replaced ABS controller, steering position sensor... twice, and 3 wheel bearing assemblies.
Other forums I have visited about the question of how to disable stabilitrak get replies asking, "why would you want to?" Well, this is why: the system engages in error and can't be fixed!
I fixed it temporarily by pulling the ABS fuse. Four things happened:
1. The stabiltrak stopped falsely engaging.
2. The vibration at 65-75 mph almost went away/lessened.
3. The ABS, traction control and brake lights in the dash stayed on.
4. Magnasteer was disabled (unfortunately).
If anyone else has had this problem and been able to fix it, please post it here. In the meantime, I will continue to search for a work-around, because it is just too dangerous to drive the car with the system enabled.
Bought my 2000 DTS in Jan 04. It's now Aug 2010 and I have had the following problems.
Leaking power steering hose, 2 years ago.
Window regulators, drivers door and drivers rear door. Discovered that a permanent and quick fix was to drill a hole in the slide portion and add a nut and bolt to hold in place. Cost of repair was about 10 cents for the nut and bolt.
No other problems in 6 years. The car has 124,395 miles. I love my Caddy, and will probably buy another one next year.
Bought my 2000 DeVille in 2001 with 19000 miles.
When I went to the highway for the first time I noticed the vibration which started around 60 mph. I took it to the dealer who did balancing without effect. I returned several times and various measures were tried. This also included switching wheels from a similar shop car that did not solve the problem.
I have had to endure the car for the last nine years. I was even told that I should stop looking for the vibration and get used to it, and not be so sensitive. I changed repair shop but there was no one who could find the solution.
90000 miles and nearly 35 thousand dollars later (I have the shop receipts), I still have the problem. I just changed tires and now I have an alignment problem which evades fixing.
Listed are other issues I endured. The list is not complete. These come to mind:
Rough idling (from the start to present).
Numerous motor and engine mounts change for clunking (some had to be done again only months apart).
Ongoing check engine light.
Check theft system.
Regulator change on all windows, more than once each.
Multiple power steering unit changes.
A/C repairs several times (each costing about 1500 dollars).
The back A/C blows hot.
Major engine work twice.
Expensive transmission work 3 times.
Replacing ignition switch twice in one week.
Cruise control does not stay on. I have tied it to the "On" position so I can use it.
I am fed up. I regret purchasing this vehicle. I will not get another.
To all 2000 DHS used car buyers beware. I bought the car used with 78000 miles and it has had problems from the time I got it home. Major oil leaks, overheating, head gasket repair $2500.00, vibration, new radiator, new power steering rack, heat doesn't work, axle repair twice, new rotors, rear window electrical problem, check engine light stays on after numerous repairs.
The car looks great, but it's a piece of junk. I wish I would have done my homework. GM really did a job on all of us. I would never buy GM again.
My father-in-law gave my wife his 2000 DeVille. He's had it in a garage for nearly 10 years - 9000 miles on it. It stalls on her and we've had a shop check it but nothing shows up. From this board, it sounds as if it's the crankcase sensors or the fuel sensors.
The rest of the comments scare me. Sounds like we should should sell it to someone who doesn't have internet access... and quick!
2000 DeVille, bought in the fall of 2008 with 57K miles for $7K. Now at 87K and rebuilding the tranny for $3.5K. No shimmies or shakes (yet), but I have always run the Costco-purchased tires at 38 lbs. "Check coolant level" light on all the time. Dash "shrinking."
Have a mechanic friend who claims to =know= NorthStars, and who worked on my '93 Eldo. He told me two years to buy my second one if it seems to me that it runs okay when I test it and it's =cheap= ("because they =should= be").
Back to the tranny: The car ran fine and dandy through numerous 300-to-500-mile round trips all over central California and over the Grapevine =until= I made a grave mistake: I used the cruise control on a 400-miler. I noticed that the car ran harder up hills and auto-shifted harder, but foolishly elected to keep it on c/c to see how it affected mileage.
A few days after I returned and had the car smogged for the DMV, the yellow light came on. Thus, I would recommend NOT using the c/c function and accepting your sore right ankle.
All NorthStars are dice rollers, it appears, but used ones =are= often so cheap that one may be money ahead in a five-year "long run" to keep up on this website, and use the information to make informed decisions to keep rolling or not.
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