I purchased a used DTS with 100k on it 2 years ago. Like the car in general but have the vibration too. Seems to vibrate usual 60-70 MPH but also during braking. Have done rotors and pads twice, it gets rid of wild braking vibration (talking steering wheel and dash board) more than vibrate-violent shudders at times and other times not so much. Seems the small constant vibration leads to rotor problems every 15k miles.
I believe the vibration originates from the right side of the drive line components. When you put your foot on the center floor hump to the right of the gas pedal while driving can feel an intense high pitched vibration. I too think it is a differential or transmission design issue, something is out of balance.
I will not own a Caddy again either. These days a car should go 150k without issue. Junk!
Planned obsolescence isn't supposed to mean $2500 to replace a solenoid that it took about $3 to manufacture. Come on GM, go figure. This defect is just one among numerous other obvious and intentionally engineered and very expensive defects. This type of engineering is disgraceful. Interesting that big brother was so eager to bail you out.
GM could have used Vaseline or KY jelly on us all to ease some of pain it inflicted on our wallets and purses. I bought a 2000 DHS in October of 2010 with 120,000 miles on it. My wife went out to the car this morning and tried to crank it up, and nothing happened. I looked on the dashboard (before inserting the key into the ignition) and the blue high beam light was on, and the "lights on" was lit up. But my light switch was completely off. Only the delay was on (the mechanism that keeps your lights on long enough to get into the house before turning off the lights) I tried jumping the car off, but nothing happened. Someone please help!!!
I also have the vibration issues @ 60-75 mph. The shrinking dashboard, and my heated seats do not work.
The sound system is amazing!!!
This is AMAZING to read everyone's posts about the Caddy.
I bought a used 2000 DHS a year ago, and the only thing wrong with it then was a check engine light that was on because of a stuck open torque converter solenoid.
After driving it like this for several months, other strange things started to happen. The check engine light would start to go on and off while driving, and with the light, both turn signals, the reverse sensors, the dash info buttons, the speedometer and tachometer quit working as well.. Then the check engine light became something I wanted to see, because if it was on, all the things I just mentioned would start working as well. Now, it stays off, and all those things seem to have quit working altogether.
I also have vibration in the tires, but it goes away above 60.
Caddy's should not have all these BIG problems.. Some of these issues are extremely dangerous and could cause serious wrecks. I have no turn signals and can't see how fast I'm going. DANGEROUS.
Anyway, the answers to all these questions are not free.. These cars were made with a lot of problems so there would be plenty of work for Caddy dealerships in the future. Good job GM. I've always been a Chevy guy, but after owning this car, I have my doubts.
Hello, on my 2000 Deville I've recently noticed small amounts of antifreeze in my garage where it sits. No trouble out of the water pump yet, but I think it's safe to say the leak is coming from somewhere and that's no good. I've had the "check coolant fluid" light jump on. That's where the initial search came from. Good luck to us both!
Most cases the po 741 is not the torque converter, but the TCC solenoids on the valvebody in the side pan. The transmission will have to come out to change it. The part is less than 20$. The labor is the high cost.
2000 DeVille here. Read these comments, went home and just stared at her, like "wow". I thought it was just me.
Service engine light has been on for a while but it still drives good. But I have the clicking behind the dash, no A/C, but sometimes the door does open and air will come out but I better not turn the car off again! Back to sweating. Now if I drive for a few hours, pull over for gas, shut it off and then try to restart, it takes a couple of tries. Very embarrassing to be in a Caddy trying to start it when the guy in an old pick-up cranks up and takes off!
These cars are so pretty, I mean absolutely beautiful, no way should the mechanical side of these vehicles fight against outside beauty. After reading all the comments here, I'm thinking about just replacing sensors just to do it! I mean, who knows which one will get jealous after you fix another?
I have always been a Caddy lover/driver but this year/models are terrible. But she is my baby. I'll drive her till the last sensor goes out. Then I'll have it turned into a toaster.
Good luck to all of us Caddy lovers/drivers, Maybe GM will come back off of vacation and make these prestige cars correct again.
2000 Deville, was driving, and with no warning she died on me, I mean Capulet! In the middle of coasting. What car of this signature does that? Started right back up and hasn't done it since, but... After reading the previous pages, sounds like I need to change crank sensors A and B. Ran on board DTC, really no codes at all, but service engine light was on, but I cleared all. 90,000 pampered miles, I should not be afraid to drive to the corner store, especially in a Caddy of this year. I should not want to keep a paper bag on the passenger seat wherever I go in case she cuts out! GM shame on you all for degrading Cadillac like so. Get rid of the robots and let human workers put these parts on correctly like the days of old. Humans don't need calibration like your robot arms do. Just employment!
I hate to tell you man, but they all break down from time to time. Even Rolls Royce's need to be repaired every now and then. Things break. Take it somewhere or fix it yourself if you are inclined to do so and move on. Stuff happens man, and your story sounds like your pride was more wounded than anything.
Need a little help Cadillac family.
Please! I have purchased the crankshaft position sensors A and B. But I see on the directions that a reset or calibration needs to be done with a GM computer scanner. My question is for anyone out there who has replaced these sensor themselves. Is the reset a must? Or will it be OK to drive after replacement? If so, I might as well take it to the shop. I was going to replace them today, but I'll wait for some replies.