8th Sep 2007, 19:48
I own a 2000 Deville with 30,000 miles and am very happy with it. The only repair I've had is the crankshaft sensor problem which was fixed immediately by the dealer for about $300. Basically I have it serviced once a year - actually more than the computerized system says is necessary. I've owned 2 Mercedes, an Audi and 2 Volvos, all of which were more "fun" to drive, but not nearly as comfortable and much more costly to maintain. I think more foreign car drivers would be very happily surprised if they tried a Cadillac.
12th Sep 2007, 00:30
I have a 2000 Cadillac Deville and I believe that I have found the reason for the vibration. At first the vibrating was minimal until I bought larger rims for the car then it got worse. I have replaced the torque convertor, tie rod ends, hubs, rear springs, front struts, rotors, had the wheels balanced twice in one day from two different shops, and replaced the axles (cv joints). So I raised the car on jack stands, took the wheels and rotors off; you can try the same and please post a reply if your car does the same thing as mine.!!! My car's vibration is coming from the shaft that exits the transmission on the passenger side of the car not the axle, but the actual shaft that is inside the transmission!!! Since transmissions are too advanced for me I will be taking the car to a transmission shop try to keep everyone posted. Would be a very expensive recall for GM to undertake that's why I believe the problem is not being recognized by the dealer.
19th Sep 2007, 15:56
2000 DHS - Bought in 2003 with 36,000 miles on it. Under warranty dealer replaced; three transmissions; two water pumps; two sets of engine mounts. I got the car with a vibration in it and bought a new set of Michelins - seemed to work and at about 100,000 put the Symmetrys back on - no problems - read on.
At 122,000 -Head gasket blew - $4500.
135,000 +/- - Passenger regulator cable broke $400.
At 141,000 - horrible shudder and vibration in front end - two new tires; one wheel hub; new rotors all around; one tie rod end; AND now waiting for two trans axles which the mechanic showed me vibrating when at speed this morning.
Mechanic also says the rear shocks are leaking - has not affected ride leveling yet.
Most people say - stop complaining, you got 141,000 out of this car and in some degree of style.
I'm torn - I like the ride and the feel of luxury, but the lies from the dealer network and the cost of repairs does make one start looking at foreign iron!!
23rd Sep 2007, 22:46
I have a 2000 Deville with every option including factory certified. I paid $30,000 for it in 2001 with 20,000 miles. It now has 85,000 miles and for the last 6 years everything was routine and satisfactory. However, at 85,000 the dreaded torque convertor failed. There were loud banging sounds from the transmission around 30 mph. Replaced with new transmission; also fixed unknown broken engine mount for a cost of $4000. The vehicle is only worth $5000, but it still looks new.
The car has a slight engine seep, but no drips yet. It also has a leak in the coolant system. The dealer is guessing it's a bad water pump. I have to add coolant/water every 3000 miles or so.
I'm losing a quart of oil every 3000 miles too.
Did anyone that had a bad water pump notice a slight loss of coolant prior to having to replace the pump?
28th Sep 2007, 03:30
I posted the entry about finding the problem with the vibration in the Cadillac that most seem to have. It was the differential gear, at least that is what I am told. So to keep the problem from returning, I bought a transmission for an older Cadillac and had it installed. It seems to work just fine, however you will have to reprogram the transmission computer because the gear ratio is different. Re-programing the computer was only $90.00 at my local Cadillac dealer. The guys in the shop seemed astounded that the transmission could have been the cause for the violent shudder that my car possessed. So I am glad to have finally solved my problem, so I can quit throwing money at items that did not solve my problem, and just in time to say that the car is now worth only 10% of the sticker price.
30th Sep 2007, 01:58
My 2000 DHS (90,000 miles.) has to have a quart of oil added between every 3000mi. oil change, I asked the dealers service manager, while it was still under warranty, and was told the north-star engine has "wet valves". Has anyone else ever heard this? Also, just had crankshaft sensors replaced and transmission service done, but sometimes my car jerks into second gear (or 3rd}) when I'm accelerating onto the highway. Any suggestions as to what this problem is? My extended warranty will expire in 4000 miles. and I need to get whatever needs fixed, fixed.
9th Oct 2007, 19:27
I have a 2002 Deville that randomly stalls when stopping or turning at slow speeds. Any suggestions from others with this problem?
27th Oct 2007, 17:19
I bought a used 2000 deville with 49000 miles. I purchased a warranty for the next 50,000 miles or 5 years whichever comes first. Thank God I did. I have had almost $9000 dollars worth of repairs so far and now my "check coolant light" won't go out. I will run out of my warranty on Jan. 2008, but I only have 85000 miles on the vehicle. I will get rid of this car so fast when the warranty goes out. I called my mechanic and he said it is probably the sensor located under the bottle that holds the coolant. As long as I have coolant in the reservoir he said it should be okay, just watch the temperature gauge.
I have a 1996 Buick Park Avenue with 110000 miles and the only thing I have ever replaced is a starter, tires and brakes. That's probably why GM stopped making them. Not enough problems!!
27th Oct 2007, 19:21
I recently purchased a '99 Seville STS, a beautiful (crimson pearl) car. The car has only 53,000 miles on it. I've not experienced any of the problems which are noted here. The only thing which bothers me is a slight vibration just when stepping on brake, especially when driving around 40 to 50 miles per hour and applying brake lightly. Anybody else has this particular problem?
29th Nov 2007, 20:15
Just purchased a 2000 DeVille for a commuter which sees no speed greater than 50 and thank goodness because the vibration above 60 would rattle your teeth... it does rattle the hood. Great comments thanks for the insight. Beautiful car... appear to be bargains... paid less that $5K...Looks like it's still gonna be our Continental sedan for the road car. And yes everyone... I think the vibration issue alone is worthy of a class-action suit.
4th Dec 2007, 23:02
Wanted to add my story to the saga. August, purchased a 2001 DTS with 94K. Only a short test drive and all went well. The car is a black beauty. Anyway, shortly after putting some miles on I was faced with the infamous 63 to 78 mph vibration.
First, I have a loose passenger side tie rod end replaced, and 4 wheel alignment and balancing. No change. OK, 4 new Goodyear Assurance Triple Thread tires and another balance job. Right - no change. OK on to the brakes and rotors, first the rear, no change, then the fronts and no change. One of the posts mentioned a Hunter Road Force balance job. So I go to the Hunter web site, read all about it and through their locator feature find a Hunter equipped shop a half mile from my house. Great guy, road tests the car, puts it on the lift and right away shows me the driver side outer tie rod end is showing play. He suggests replacing it, doing a regular balance and alignment all around and I would soon be happy motoring. By the way, avoiding the road force balance saved me over $80.00. So off the lift it comes after a little less than 2 hours and off I go...
I drove through town heading towards the highway with the anticipation and nervousness of a kid about to kiss a girl for the first time. Would it go OK? What if it doesn't work? The highway is ahead of me, I enter, then merge and slowly accelerate, 40, 45, 50, 60, 65 no vibration, 70 still good, 75 oh man am I dreaming?, 80 eureka I crossed over with nary a bump. I hope this helps someone, and be sure to post the results. Thanks to all that already shared.
And PS, remember if you go with the all season Assurance tires they are not as smooth as OEM. But they will keep your car stuck to the pavement in bad weather.
Now I'm looking forward to a ride I have to take tomorrow on the parkway...