2000 Cadillac DeVille Sedan from North America - Comments

I have a 2000 Seville SLS, purchased in Oct 07. Nice car, smooth ride... but, I have the shimmy/shaking that doesn't go away. Had to replace the steering wheel positioning sensor, crankshaft position sensors, and now... the TCC... man, is it really 2K bucks? Holy crap. I suppose there is no easy way to fix it for a do it yourselfer?

Anyway, car runs like a dream... except for the aforementioned issues. Has about 65K on it right now. Anyone have an idea how long you can drive with the torque converter code before messing something else up?

Thanks.

I have a 2003 Cadillac DTS, which I bought early 2008 with about 80,000 miles on it.

A few weeks after I bought it, it was lurching on the highway. Then it started stalling in traffic, mostly when coming to a stop or a turn at slow speeds, but occasionally when going about 60. The battery light always precedes this, and just recently the check engine light has come on. It does this almost everyday during cold weather, but frequent stalls also when warmer.

When I first got it, the dealer looked at it for a couple days but could find nothing wrong. I suspect it may be the engine computer as sensors were replaced and did not help. As the dealer charged me $1300 for a brake job on the car to get inspected so I could purchase it, and I've no warranty, not good.

I have read everyone of the 138 postings on this page and found them to very informative and valuable to me as a professional auto-tech.

Vibration, and shimmy at 65-70mph is a common complaint. If tires have been replaced/balanced. Steering linkages and wheel bearings checked. Then my conclusion the problem exists in the trans/axle. Not necessarily the transmission, but the axel side, which is the differential in a front wheel drive car. This combined with the torque converter defect is why these cars have such a high transmission failure rate.

Cuts out/stalls especially at low speeds. Engine codes P0335, and/or P0385 crank position sensor 'A' or 'B'. Seems that replacing these 2-sensors has corrected the stalling problem in almost all cases.

Thank You, Cavemanautomike@yahoo.com.

I bought my 2000 dhs with 30,000 miles in dec 2004.I love this car to death. So far under warranty I've had two window regs replaced, 1 water pump repl, heating elements in drvr seat repl and 2 crank sensors replaced. I've always burned 2 qts of oil between changes. no major leaks. not under warranty I have rpl a battery wich I had to fix the floor pan under back seat, another window regulator and an overflow tank due to leaks at seams. Now, with 108,000, I'm getting the dredded 65-70 shimmy. also getting the serivice engine light. I'm gonna change the plugs, map sensor and fuel filter. hopefully all goes good. They want 400-500 for the 100,000 maint. the shimmy could just be a degradation of a spark plug or coil pack, as there is no "coil" on this car. Each cylinder has its own coil pack. I would check first for a bad plug or coil pack, as being a transverse mounted engine, any spark problem could produce a noticable "shimmy" or "lurch".my car seems to run fine except the bogging down from a stop then full throttle. I may just need a new filter and plugs. I will write back if that clears all. I will say that this is one beautifull car. I love the paint, leather and all that came with it. Any probs with ac, check the high pressure switch at the compressor. &15.00at most shops. Mine was shorting out due to condensation. kinda a beaotch to get to though. Haffta drop the splash shield, open hood, really need long arms for this one. stay cool and this is def an engineering prob. If my sparks and filter don't work, it could be a transaxle prob. 3800 lbs is a lot of car to move quickly. def could be a tc prob or general tranny breackdown. I don't work for GM, but I really don't want to see another USA car maker lose it. FIX THE DEFECTS AND PEOPLE WILL HAVE FAITH!

2000 Deville DHS - Purchased new, well maintained, now has 195K miles. I haven't heard any complaints about the water cooled alternator. I have replaced 2 at a cost of $1200 each.

As for the window regulators, I have replaced 3 out of 4, the 4th one failed, but I refused to pay the ridiculous price for the assembly (I had been replacing them myself in less than an hour).

Disconnected the window and blocked it in the up position.

How about shrinking dashboards?

Broken motor mounts and the latest - the "3rd" rear brake lights are on backorder at the factory for over 5 mos. with no promised ship date.

I also have to have both front wheel Brg. hubs replaced, has anyone used aftermarket hubs with good results?

Have not experienced the vibration and or sensor problems, maybe I don't have it so bad after all!!!

2000 Deville owner here, this is my 5th and final Cadillac.

The car has just under 70k on it. I have not had the problem with the front end. I am however a victim of the shrinking dashboard. What a shame for a 40k car

Lost the drivers rear window regulator. I had the local window shop replace for half the dealer price.

Drivers seat heater replaced under warranty, now back of the seat doesn't heat up.

I keep getting a check coolant warning, I keep checking it & it's still there. I had the system pressure checked no leaks, but I've never owned a car with such a window fogging problem. I live north of Boston, it gets cold & damp up here. When it's cold and damp, I must leave the temp on high & the defrost on or I can't see.

Now I've having traction control problems. Yellow warning light comes on after a few minutes of driving. Not all the time, just when it's wet or snowing out! Local garage pulled a brake light switch code. Changed that with no luck.

Now for the good, it's a great looking car, it gets incredible gas mileage for the size & its quite fast. But nothing makes up for the uncertainty of what's going to break next & how much it will cost.

If any one has any idea as to what's causing the fogging up & the traction problems, I'm all ears. Be quick though, I'm considering an Infiniti as I write this.

2000 Cadillac Deville, bought used with 120,000 miles one month ago. Beautiful car, beautiful ride, but alas, the General Motors lack of quality never fails. The car stalls at red lights, and when slowing down or making slow turns. From Internet research, I believe it's gonna be the crankshaft position sensors, a $500 job at the dealer, $300 dollars at any other location.

Sometimes I smell something burning under the hood, the ACC crackles like popcorn, the standard stereo speakers crackle like popcorn.

In fairness, just about any luxury car these days is gonna cost money when stuff breaks, but General Motors seems to specialize in this.

I'm gonna fix the Cadillac, park it and get me a used truck as a every day car, and hope the Cadillac just cranks up on the weekend.

I have a 2000 DeVille. Had 30000 when I got it, 65000 now, my wife came home from church today and the service soon light is on, and it's chugging a little. So I found this site looking for the problem, and read all of the input from other owners, glad I did!! Going to trade it in first thing in the morning, too bad though, really like the car.

FYI, I wrote about my traction control problems a few weeks ago, It turns out it was a burnt out LED in the third tail light. Cost much more for the part than it should have, but since it's been fixed the problem is gone. And my garage took mercy on me & put it in for nothing.

Well I just got a 2000 DeVille, and I have the shaking when at a cruising speed of 60 to 70 mph.. and I've have had one stall, and something that felt like the car jumped or had a spark plug miss or something.. I have to get my motor mounted; don't know if it's the 2 front ones, the side or the transmission mount..

Oh yeah, and I have the shrinking dash board too, and my low coolant and my service engine light is on; a lot of problems huh?..

It's a good ass car, but it's a lot to fix, but once everything is done it's gonna be all graaaaavy!

Mine is a 93 60 Special (essentially a De Ville). Have fought the 70 mph shimmy since buying in 95 with 20K miles. Problem became noticeable at about 50K, although extreme sensitivity to tire choice and balance was noticed at 35K.

An episode at 90K shed MUCH light on the problem. Left front tire developed a huge blister (inner side). On driving out of a gas station near the end of a 1600 mile run, the whole front end began to heave back and forth. I couldn't see the defect, so carefully got under way and the problem was minimal.

Have since researched steering - especially air in cylinder of rack and pinion. No, or poor bleeding, leads directly to the problem. I believe there is something about the GM steering pump system that permits air to be dispersed in the oil easily, e.g. leakage around pump rotor. I first tested this by turning the wheel to stops while moving slowly ahead. Sure enough, one side (full left turn) was very soft. I put some pressure on the wheel until I could feel the stop. The problem went away and the car steered as nicely as you could expect.

I went through two sets of front rotors over time because the problem is noticeable on braking. I think the problem could lead to rotor warp. I am able to live with the "problem" by occasional bleeding, but believe the air buildup is inherent in the power steering system design.

When I see the HUGE number of "70 mph" shimmy complaints and the many futile attempts to cure the problem, I am surprised that no one else has proposed this cause. Because the degree of air accumulation controls the degree of softness, the problem can be any degree of problem - like sensitivity to tire make, balance, etc. When my problem went over the top with a major tire blister, it was when I also had a large amount of air trapped in one end of the steering cylinder.

Hope this helps someone.

I bought my 2000 DHS in 2007 with 66,000 miles with the check engine light on. The dealer claimed it was something in the engine, and it would be fixed, but 30,000 miles and 3,000 out of pocket later, I've finally got it fixed.

Now I'm finally experiencing the shaking, and a shop told me it would be about 450 dollars, don't think I'll be buying another Caddi or domestic vehicle, and I'm a union worker who strongly believes in buying American.

OMG, I just got a 2001 Deville pearl white with 95k miles, luxury, loaded to the max and very clean in and out. I love the way this car looks, but all the problems you guys are talking about, I have right now.

Check engine, dash is peeling or shrinking, vibration at 50 to 70 mph, I think my passenger seat is going to come off, LOL, engine stalls and sometimes dies without a reason, engine shakes at every stop sign or light, low coolant, gas cap.

Took the car to shop for the check engine light and guess what! 14 trouble codes, map sensor transmissions sensor, crank sensor, throttle position sensor, catalytic and some more.

Everything is wrong with this car. Problems cost about 3000 dollars to fix, yeah!! Considering I just paid 3500 LOL. Holy molly, I need my money back. Does any one want this car? If you've got a Cadillac Devil, get rid of it, trust me!! ..

I bought a 2000 DeVille used from a dealer for a really good price. White Diamond color a great looker. Short test drive revealed nothing wrong and it had about 88,000 miles. First problem to pop up was the check engine light with the error code for the Torque Converter sensor. I've read about many of us changing out their tranny's for big bucks, but I also read that if the torque converter was really having a problem, you would notice stalling at stop lights and other transmission symptoms. I left it and 60,000 miles later, no problem except for staring at that engine light... better than $3,000.

Next problem was the shaking setting in around 100,000 miles. Most of my driving is rural and local so I usually drive under 65 mph. Then had to drive my dad 150 miles every day for cancer treatments, and it shook pretty bad on the interstate. The passengers hardly noticed, but I felt it in the steering wheel and foot pedals. I finally had enough, and reading all these threads considered the problem useless but I had to try. So off to Discount Tire and got rid of the Goodyear Regattas that were on the car. Still had good tread, but they were noisy and harsh. So I went with the Michelin Symmetry which were the orig. equipment, and which I had experience with on some Lincolns I had. New Michelins, New speed balance, and over inflated to 38 psi.

Result: New Car!! Rides great, no vibration a real pleasure, so much that I find it hard to regulate my speed now. As a result I got my first speeding ticket in 20 years on the interstate just gliding along at 80! Oh well, it was worth it. 160,000 miles now, but failed inspection with a camshaft sensor error code. Mechanic replaced the camshaft sensor for about $200 and passed re-inspection. I just wish I replaced those tires 40K ago! Still have that error code for the torque converter, but it drives and looks great.

I've run into many of the problems that I have read on this post, and this is what needed to be done with my caddy... get ready, it could save you thousands...

2003 Cadillac Deville.

The shaking in my car was from 65 to 70 MPH.. it was so bad I thought the tranny was going.. I saved up 3k and took her to the dealer.. they did a road test and it turns out all the car needed was to have the tires balanced... that fixed the problem cheap...

I also had the stalling and check engine light. That was caused by the crank position sensor 2.. I suggest buying Delco ones on Ebay and hiring a mechanic off Craig's list to replace them.. it's about an hour and a half job... for both.. Also the check engine light would come on every 50 miles.. that turned out to be the mass airflow sensor... that part is so easy to replace a child could do it.. it was like 80 bucks... always buy Delco parts!!!.. never cheap ones.. they will just break...

I've owned about 15 Cadillac's in my life.. and let me tell you this model Deville 03-05 had a better rating than Mercedes for quality.. you can drive the car 100 miles without antifreeze.. I run full synthetic oil in mine.. Castro 5w30 weight.. it holds 8 and a half quarts.. and will burn 1 quart every thousand miles.. believe it or not that's good because your always putting clean oil in the car.. I change my oil every 7k miles... the quarts aren't cheap though.. there about 7 bucks a piece.. but well worth it..

Whatever you do... don't do a tuneup on this car by yourself... I did and first of all it took me about 3 hours.. because the rear 4 plugs are almost impossible to get at.. and after I finished the job.. my check engine light came on.. the car ran beautiful though... I took her to the dealer and had to spend about $400 bucks because the engines have air lines that I didn't know about and by me changing the plugs and caps.. I guess I made a few lines leak air...

My advice to you... never let anyone work on this engine except for the Cadillac dealer.. tires, brakes, belts, sensors can be done by any GM mechanic.. but backyard mechanics can really screw up your engine.. because they don't have the proper tools a dealer has.. and then you'll just have it towed there and it will cost you double to figure out what the other guy did...

PS... never do a tranny flush on your car.. The reason being is that the system they use on your pampered pet is the same flusher used on that 3 dollar 1971 Nova with tranny problems.. the flusher will just blow in chips of medal, which will destroy your tranny... I would just have the pan dropped and let all the fluid leak out... clean the bottom of the pan and filler up with clean fluid... the best you can buy... replace the gasket with a GM one and replace the filter...

My caddy has 95K miles on it.. and it runs like a dream.. best Cadillac I've ever owned..

If you have any questions about Cadillac, don't hesitate to drop me an email.. and I'll share with you my knowledge.. I've spent about 4 years of my life under a Cadillac hood... and know just about everything from 81 to 03.. my email's krfworcester@aol.com.. and my name's Keith..