2000 Cadillac DeVille Sedan from North America - Comments

Hello Fellow Cadillac Owners. I bought a used 2000 De Ville with 36,000 miles on it about a year ago and it was fine til a week ago. My windshield wipers won't turn off. They seem to be stuck in the on position with the windsheild fluid spraying every where. I've tried to change the fuse thinking that would fix it, but no luck. Has anyone else had this problem? If so please any help would be grateful!! Thanks, Joseph.

2000 Cadillac Deville not DTS or DHS. second owner. Bought it with 58,000 miles now at 84,455 has been great, but my ignition coil assembly went bad along with my water pump. It also vibrates. Since about 60,000 the service engine soon light goes on and apparently the (AIR) Air injection system has a faulty sensor. Im kind of jittery about the transmission. Anyone got an idea when it gives out so I can be prepared for the cost?

Have posted this original message back in November and now with an update. I own a 2000 DHS Cadillac with 53000 miles, we are the original owners. The car has been OK no major problems until two months back. Started to feel a small vibration when accelerating slowly at 30 and up. Took the car to two different dealers and they told me the torque converter need to be replaced only $ 3,500.00 for the repair and no more problems, someone is nuts and it’s not me. The spark plugs on these cars are supposed to last for 100000 miles and the torque converter goes at 53000. Has any one on the board had this problem or replaced the torque converter or some other solution to fix my problem. In December I took the car to a local transmission shop who came highly recommended to me, they road tested and checked out our car, the owner of the shop informed me that there was no need to change the torque converter, it is not the problem and he feels the vibration is on the motor side. “Help” from what I have read from the above post, most of you have some vibration issues. I replaced the original tires 25000 miles back, with a new set of Goodyear's and now the vibration has started. Has anyone had this type of vibration when accelerating at low speeds and did changing the tires back to the original factory installed tires help or eliminate this problem Thanks for the help.

I love this forum because it is very informative. I recently bought a used sls with 60,000 miles on it and 4000 thousands miles later I have to get two crankshaft sensors at a cost of 500 bucks for the total cost which isn't that bad. I have not had those vibrations problems which makes me kind of glad to pay for the sensors. I have cooper touring sle tires on my joint and they work fine. Duralast sucks.

1999 Seville and same issue on vibrations. Replaced tires 4 times and finally ended up going back with the Symetry tire from Michelin. No luck. Still issues at 65+ and it's driving me nuts. Here is what I have done with no success. Replace both front CV axles by recommendation of a Cadillac buddy of mine. Replaced the rims with new factory rims, but a different style and replaced rotors so many times I can do it in my sleep. I did watch the new tires on the balance machine and did see some side to side tread movement on the Michelins. I was also told the torque converter was probably the issue, but when you put the car in neutral at high speeds my mechanic buddy told me if it were a torque converter the vibration would stop. It didn't so I doubt that will correct the issue. I do notice that the vibrations seems to be worse when you accelerate going 65+ miles or faster. Anyway, will try the Goodyears as a last resort. If that doesn't fix the problem then I'm selling the car.

I recently purchased a 2000 DHS Cadillac with 38,000 miles and now at 40,000 miles, it shuts off while driving, usually at stop lights or at slow speeds while turning into a parking lot, Thank God! Has anyone experienced this problem as well, Please let me know for I can prepare myself for costs!

I had the same problem our 2000 DHS Deville would stall out at stop lights or when making turns into garage or parking. Both time’s it was the fuel sensor that needed to be replaced. First time under warranty second time cost us

$500.00. Good Luck.

I bought my 2002 Seville SLS back in November of 2004 with 50,040 miles on the clock. The tires needed replacing as they were the originals. I noticed the vibration and figured new tires would correct the problem. How wrong I was. Before I get into what has been done, let me first state, that I love this car and will not be getting rid of it. Okay here goes. I made it my mission to diagnose this issue. I have read everything that I could, and have gained a lot of knowledge. I do all of my own repairs so that keeps costs way down. Since I bought the car, I have had 5 sets of tires (all new except the originals) and four sets of wheels on the car. None of them cured the 60-75 mph vibration/shimmy. I have changed the two front struts with new Delco units, as well as the rear shocks. I have changed all four wheel bearings. Also changed the outer tie rod ends. I have changed rotors twice as well as the pads. I installed a new front engine mount (supposedly a weak mount that often fails). I tightened up on the engine cradle. And the car still shimmies. But I still love it and will continue to drive it.

Now for the necessary repairs that needed to be done. Trunk was leaking water. I replaced the trunk seal as well as using weatherstrip sealer around the entire perimeter (about $55.00). Trunk no longer leaks. I had an acceleration issue where the engine would bog down badly. Changed the MAP sensor and it runs great (about $45.00). I had to change the water pump cover gasket as it was leaking when I bought the car. Since I was changing the gasket, I figured I would replace the cover, thermostat and gasket, install the coolant supplement, and add fresh coolant (about $85.00 total). Coolant hasn't leaked a drop in two plus years. Crankshaft position sensors needed replacing due to sudden engine stalling (about $80.00). Most of my parts were gotten from www.gmpartsdirect.com.

Existing issues. I have a transmission problem. It is throwing code P0741 which is the torque converter clutch stuck off. Basically the torque converter doesn't come to complete lock up, resulting in slightly lower fuel mileage. Cost to repair is well over $2,000, so I will live with the code.

For all owners of 1998-2004 Seville's, and 2000-2005 Deville's: did you know that you can run diagnostic codes directly from your dashboard? No need to go to the dealer. Here is how it is done. To the right of the steering wheel is three buttons on the dash. Simultaneously hold in the on/off button and the ^ button. After a few seconds the dash will weird out, go blank, and then ask if you want to run codes. Press the on/off button two times. The car will now run through the codes. It will also tell you if the code is current, or history. After retrieving the codes, it will ask you if you want to delete the codes. If you do, hold in the on/off button until the codes clear. If you do not, just press any of the buttons on the left side of the dash. You can run the codes while the car is being driven, or at a standstill. A very nice feature to have in a car. You can also get a ton of info about these cars at www.cadillacforums.com.

Bought a 2000 De ville with 48,000 miles in November 2005. It now has 72,000. I have the vibration issue, I just replaced the crankshaft sensors, they tell me the catalytic converter needs to be replaced to reset the Service Engine Soon light, supposedly a cracked motor mount and they recommend a $200 emission system flush.

I love the ride... I hate the MAJOR problems... my next car may be a KIA...lol.

I bought a 2000 DTS in July of 2005. It had 56000 miles on it. A truly beautiful car to look at and to drive EXCEPT:

The remote control key pad wore out and was replaced at a cost of $300.

The rear air conditioning unit failed and was replaced at a cost of $1500.

The engine blew at 93000 miles with no warning, no oil lights, no service engine lights, no nothing. Afrer the Cadillac dealer offered to replace the engine for $7500 plus labor, and offered no explanation for why the sophisticated on-board computer failed to advise of an engine problem, I had a used engine installed by a reputable independent garage. This cost $4700.

The air compressor went out at 94000 and is being replaced at a cost of $1278.00 as I write this.

This car is a major lemon. Having bought it used, I am stuck with repairs that far exceed the value of the vehicle, while still paying for it. The balance I owe is far more than the car is worth and I am stuck with it...

I am fastidious about my cars, they are always serviced on time and any problems are promptly addressed, but this car is bankrupting me.

I will never own another Cadillac, and I have had four of them previously. I have a 1993 with 148000 miles on it that is still running like a dream.

This 2000 is a nightmare that just won't go away. My only alternative is to park it until I have it paid off then try to get rid of it. I wouldn't wish this car on my worst enemy.

My advice: run away as fast and as far as you can from the Cadillac name plate.

I have of course heard of "idiot" lights, but if they don't even come on to advise of a problem, particularly an oil problem then I am the idiot for relying on them.

Now I begin to see, after being a die hard American made car buyer for over 40 years, why Detroit is in trouble, and why Japanese cars are dominating the American marketplace.

Shame on you, GM, for foisting this kind of workmanship off on the American public and having the audacity to expect us to sit back and take it.

I too have a 2000 Deville. I really love the car, but in the last year or so the service engine soon light comes on for a few days, then off for a few days. The engine dies on occasion when slowing down to turn, or at a stop light or sign. A few weeks ago, I was driving at 55mph when the engine cut off...I've read another post that suggests it could be the fuel sensor... any ideas.

Okay let me add mine. I have a 2001 Cadillac De ville. It was my first fairly new car and I loved it. Until it started to give me trouble. I had it two weeks, and had to spend 500 bucks on sensors and some type of fuel system flush. A lot of you guys are talking about vibrations over 70. What I did was over inflate the tire to about 38 psi. It went away. There was one guy who said his heated seats didn't work anymore. There are three sensors under the seat. Turn on your heated seats the sensor that clicks twice is for the heated seats. Replace it. Save yourself some money. The stalling, mine does it also I think it is either the throttle body sensor or the fuel sensor. The torque converter problem, Code p0741b, yes I have it also. This is my advice and I'm not kidding because I'm gonna do it. Through your on board diagnostics you can cut the service engine light off due to problems. Turn it off, go to any dealer other than a cadillac dealer, trade it in for anything other than a cadillac and never buy another one. Seriously!!!

I own a 2000 deville with 90k miles on it. bought it over a year ago with 79k miles on it. the car runs like a charm, except for one problem- the vibration issue that many have referenced before. around 60-75 miles the front end vibrates, sometimes more, somtimes less. I hear a lot of people talk about tire issues/wheel balance. that can't be it. have had the wheels balanced and rebalanced several times at different shops and am on my third (3) set of tires. no difference at all. I have noticed that I can feel the vibration a bit more in the steering wheel when turning the wheel, so I'm thinking cv joints perhaps. not sure. could also be ball joint related. nonetheless frustrating. other than that the vehicle is great, very comfortable and luxurious.

I have a 2001 Cadillac Deville and the infamous check engine light is on. One of the codes that I am getting is a Map Sensor code. I was told that this is the reason why my car will not crank or goes dead. The first time I noticed this problem is when I went out one morning to start my car and it would not stay crank. After a few tries and holding down the gas it stayed on and ran fine for the next week. Soon after this episode the same thing occurred again, but only this time it happened after a few hours of driving. It starts just fine when I get my day started, but when I shut it off after a few hours of driving it will not crank again. In the event that I do get it started it goes dead at every stop light and stop sign, SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME IT IS JUST THE MAP SENSOR!!!

For the people having problems with this car shutting off, it's a sensor they replace I'm not sure which one, it happened to my mother's 2000 deville. Cost was around $500.

Luckily she had a warranty, $50 is all she paid!