Overall a good car, just time and mileage takes it's toll, no matter how well the car is built
Tune up at 90000 miles. including cap and rotor, plugs, fuel filter, PCV valve, and wires~ 150.
-replaced original shocks at 90000 miles, I was getting the washboard affect~ $240.
-original alternator went at 92000 miles~ $150.
-original battery went 93000 miles, cold winters will do that ~ $74.
-idler arm, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and upper control arm bushing done at 102000 miles, 2 alignments, first one the mechanic screwed it up so got the second one for free~ $500.
-Some odd reason two of my wires got burnt to a crisp, so replaced all of them~ $60.
-Front and rear sway bar bushings 103000 miles, polyurethane, old ones were starting to crack~ $60.
-water pump gasket at 106000 miles, but replaced the whole pump~ $52.
-belt tensioner- I broke that trying to put the belt back on when the water pump gasket took a dump~ $42.
Next is pitman arm, forgot to do that with the rest of the front end 108000 miles~ $50.
Overall it has been a very reliable automobile for the mileage it has on it. Most of the stuff that I needed to replace, was replaced due to being 7 years old and a lot of miles on it. Parts are not meant to last forever. I also do not wait till the part totally fails. Since a clunking ball joint means it is going and eventually it will snap causing the whole wheel assembly to fall apart on itself. The only complaint I have is the PRICE OF GAS!!! Since I drove quite a bit for a college student.
Seats are comfortable, but a little low to the ground in the rear. However I took care of the low rear seat by raising it up a little bit.
Rides decently, no car ride, but better than any old design SUV built on a truck frame!
Acceleration is good, but it is better with an exhaust, flat throttle blade, and open air element.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 11th August, 2006