Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-79
I have a 95 Blazer that after running for awhile, when you shut it off and then go to restart it - it won't start up again - if you wait an hour or so, then it will restart. The mechanics have put in 2 new starters, a new ignition, a new fuel pump and nothing has fixed the problem. Does anyone out there know what the problem could be? I love the Blazer, but it is taking me to the Poor House.
Last night the engine blew on our 1995 Chev Blazer due to the failure of the oil coolant line. The line snapped and unfortunately my Fiance had to continue driving it 2 miles to get to a safe location. And by "driving" I mean he had to put the truck in neutral and coast until there was a place to pull over.
The engine is toast. I will never buy another american vehicle again. EVER. This chevy blazer was a CURSE.
There were quite a few other problems listed by other posters that we'd dealt with too. What a crappy car overall.
1995 S-10, 4WD, 2-door Blazer--
Had oil cooler lines first replaced
in 1997 after 21K miles. In 2004 (87K miles), oil cooler lines blew on city
street, and I saw my oil pressure fall off the gauge. Fortunately, I could
pull into a driveway after a block, so no catastrophic motor damage.
$400+ for repairs. Now, early 2006 and approx 20K miles later, need some
of the lines replaced again after noticing an oil leak.
The rubber tubing and aluminum crimping are the weak links this time.
At least my previous experience made me aware of the possibility of
oil cooler line problems, so I was suspect of the slow leak and perhaps
I've avoided full oil loss and engine destruction. If you notice an oil
leak in your Blazer, please have it checked. I echo all the previous comments
posted, and the experience of mechanics, about bad design and quality
of this subsystem in the Blazer.
My friend just bought a 95 LT 4x4 with a bad engine from a blown oil cooler line. Obviously, we got a good deal on it. One thing that we have run into with the engine replacement that I think everyone should know about... there are 2 different engine models that will go into a 95. If you've got a crank sensor and not a real distributor, make sure that you get the right motor. I'm about to take the timing cover off for the third time to troubleshoot spark issues. Doing the engine replacement yourself isn't all that hard, so I suggest this car for any backyard mechanics looking for a deal, just watch out for the dreaded 'bad crimping' problems so prevalent. I'm currently working on fabricating a replacement for these lines...I'll repost if my fix works.
Aaron in Wisconsin.
I have a 95 S-10 pickup and the oil line blew off with out warning. No leaks till it blew out of the crimped fitting. Don't know if I lost the engine yet.
Should have been a recall.
Mad in Colorado.
The oil line from the engine to the filter blew apart on my 95 LT Blazer. The (check gauges) light comes on and your oil pressure is on zero. If you're lucky like I was you shut it off in time and don't need a new engine. I fixed it myself with clamps (similar to muffler clamps). I got new oil lines from the filter to radiator from Carquest.
'95 Sonoma 4x4 blew a few weeks ago, but have not had time to track down which oil line blew and where. Looks like someone took a 5 gallon bucket of oil and threw it on the motor though. I am assuming by reading these posts that it is a crimp problem. Needless to say, the motor is seized up and hard to find the right replacement. I heard today of a recall on this model and year, but have not found any info yet. Anyone else heard about this? Paint is also horrible with massive rust and bubbles on the box. Alternator caught fire last year and stupid me put the fire out. Should have let this thing burn to the ground!
I had a 2000 S10 until last year. I had to replace the left front hub, power steering line and the oil cooler lines. The loom around the wiring in the front rubbed grooves in the oil aluminum oil cooler line and it started squirting oil. A temporary fix of hose clamp and a piece of rubber tubing got me home so that I could pay over $150 dollars for new cooler lines to put on myself... not really that easy of a task.
I have been a Chevy guy from the 60's and I am sorely disappointed in GM. I only buy Toyotas and Hondas now. I have 4 GMs left and am getting rid of them as fast as possible. Don't get me wrong, I love the look and experience when it works, But this oil line thing is horrible. YES, it happened to me, but I am so on top of my stuff that I don't think I blew the engine. I Shut it down right away, but oil all over everything! The Dept. of Enviormental Management should start the class-action suit just because of all the oil getting dumped on or roads from this thing! My 94 Suburban has had the lines replaced and they are leaking again! All over my driveway! My Olds Bravada oil lines blew (4.3 Chevy engine).
So I just ordered a new Toyota and my wife is happy now with her Honda. Really, it's too bad, but GM is not what they were when they were good back in the 60's and early 70's. If you can work on it yourself and don't mind all the grease, I'd still stay away unless you can come up with a better system for oil lines. Then let me know! misterhotrod@hotmail.com Thanks!
Have bought a 95 blazer (big mistake) with under 70k miles. on it. Have been a chevy fan for a very long time as I have had good experiences with older types. The 95 W type blazer in particular has been the worst vehicle I have ever bought not to mention the seriously high cost of parts. Replaced the spider assembly or cpi fuel injector connector assembly ($300). The nut kit which is actually 2 fuel lines that connect to the spider assembly (plastic) with metal ends cost around $90. Wow right!! The ball joints are going the mechanic tells me which seems to be a problem with most as I have read thus far. The a/c system stopped working and all of the sudden does not even blow air from the vents. Probably the blend, but just guessing from what I have read in other posts. The point is that I fix a lot of mechanical problems and troubleshooting, but this thing is like rolling the dice. Could be anything with these vehicles. Mind you I have never posted anything about a car not being it's worth, but this one is the first. Hardest vehicle I ever had to do a tune-up on or do any maintenance on for that matter and I've done many. It almost seems like a class action suit needs to be initiated with the oil lines blowing as it could be a simple recall with an improved stronger line not blowing. The positives are that the vehicle handles great on the road as far as bumps and overall driveability. I have used the 4wd in inclement weather and it worked fine so far. Seats are kinda comfortable and it looks nice. With all the problems I guess it sits around enough to just look nice which doesn't get the task of driving it any justice. Two thumbs way down and good luck to anyone who owns this mistake. Regards.
I purchased a 95 Chev Blazer at a dirt cheap price $175.00 not running. Turned out to be a bad fuel pump (100.00). Replaced it and the engine fired right up. Ran great for about 2 days, then took it on the beach. Noticed the temp gauge rising on the way out, but dropped again once we got on the road. The more we drove over the next few days, the temp would rise on the highway then start running rough. Changed the coolant temp sensor, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs and wires, Oil & filter, trans fluid & filter, air filter, one headlight, 2 rear tires, and exhaust pipe. Coolant temp still slowly creeps up beyond normal, and I have noticed it runs very rich. Any ideas? All in all, I have spent about $800.00, and after reading don't want to spend any more. Thinking I should sell it while I can.
I have owned my 1995 Blazer since 1995. I bought it brand new and put 195k miles on it. Not once has a oil line blew on me. I have taken perfect care of this and have put a lot of after market upgrades on it to make it faster and a lot more fun. This is a great SUV and I am very happy with what I have and how reliable it is. The only thing that has broken was the ball joints because I lowered it 7 inches and the alignment just trashed the joints.
I have a 1995 chevy blazer other than replacing the fuel pump, spark plug wires and tires and air filter. Everything else is original. I now have 450,000 miles. Almost a half a million miles on the original engine and transmission. It out lasted 3 of the hondas I have own. I'll never buy a import again.
I have a 95 blazer, and it is sitting in my garage broke down again. This time it is white smoke and was running rough. When on the way to get the squib injector replace I ran out of gas, when try'n to restart the motor stooped turning over. The starter or bearing's maby. Never buy this vehicle please, all the things that you have read on this car survey are true. GM stands for GIVEME MONEY to replace our stuff. JOE.
We just bought a 1995 Chevy S10 Blazer in July of this year. We have not been able to drive it very far as of yet. Sputter and choke.. We had to clean the EGR valve and put a new gasket with a screen on.. and now it is November and cold.. our heater blows warm air only for a short period and then stops. The windows fog over and you can't see to even drive. Yep that's great. If anybody else has this problem please email us at automechanic_35jake@yahoo.com.. We cannot figure out this problem. any suggestions would be great!! NO more Chevys...EVER!!!
Thanks
Jake.