28th Aug 2010, 09:29

We have owned our 1995 Chevy Blazer S10 LT for over 12 years. Other than normal wear and tear repairs, we have experienced no more headaches with this vehicle than with any other we've had in the past.

I think all makes have their own quirks. I'd be curious to know the demographics of the problems in comparison to the factory that they came from. Is it possible that it has something to do with who put it together?

Satisfied in Nebraska.

16th Apr 2011, 10:43

It really is a poor design!

It's pretty much guaranteed you will lose the engine. When (not if!) this happens, such a cheap fix, such an expensive screw up!

25th Apr 2011, 16:02

Same vehicle 95 S-10 4x4 purchased new for $28,000. Worst piece of crap I ever owned. After warranty, forget customer service!

Three batteries.

Two AC units.

Three alternators.

Fan blade cracked.

Replaced rear main seal.

Harness.

Door locks.

Wiper motor.

CD radio crapped out.

Driver's seat belt.

EGR valve.

Fuel pump.

Brake master cylinder.

Front brake pads & rotors.

Transfer case motor.

4x4 selector switch.

Rear auto transmission seal (pumping ATF into the transfer case).

NONE OF THE ABOVE WERE DUE TO NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR! Vehicle has only 65,000 miles! Haven't purchased a GM since!

25th Apr 2011, 16:24

I have another article in this thread. Bought new for $28,000, now has only 65,000 miles. Since new, this vehicle felt like IT WOULD NOT STOP DURING HARD BRAKING. Last year, the pedal went to the floor while at a traffic light. I replaced the master cylinder (easy) and now have excellent braking capabilities. This vehicle has over 15 serious maintenance problems. Most were repaired by myself after warranty expired. All customer service gave me was lip service!

ROD.

25th Apr 2011, 16:35

All the vacuum switch does is transfer vacuum to the servo under the battery box, which in turn operates a cable attached to the fork that disengages the front axles in the differential. My culprit was the transfer case shift motor. Northern auto parts for about $130. Easy to replace. Disconnect the front driveshaft for clearance by tapping it out of the sealed hub. Use a 1/4 drive ten mm deep socket to remove the bolts after the harness is disconnected.

ROD.