I have a 2000 model 1500 4x4 5 speed. When I depress the clutch the accelerator hangs or accelerates. The truck has been back to the dealership 2 times. The throttle body was cleaned 1st time, and I was told that nothing was wrong the 2nd time. Sometimes the truck idles at 1200rpm. I was told that this is normal though the truck has not done this for 130000 miles. I was also told that the truck is getting old and it is time to trade it in on a new one. If this happens, it will be foreign made. My foreign made truck had 280000 when I traded it and only received normal maintenance.
I have an 00' Silverado Extended cab - Owned it since 13, 000 miles back in 2001.
Yes the piston slap exists from day one, just like all the rest. Chevy redesigned the rings to resolve this problem.
The rotors were rusted in place. (they sold the 99-01 vehicles with rotors made out of a poor material- note: this has been changed too - Keep it quiet, they might hear you).
The steering column bulletin fixed whatever they had with the noises.
The tail-gate wires broke on my truck. I bought them literally months before they issued the bulletin. Fortunately, I'm young and didn't get hurt (yes I was standing on it at the time).
If your throttle feels like its sticking, it's because you need to clean out your throttle body. The engine has a major carbon build-up problem that you have to clean it out very ofter. The butterfly gets sticky, resulting in the hesitation in throttle application.
I just had to replace my ball joint due to the dealer over-lubricating the grease fitting. It resulted in the thing tearing due to too much in it (can't prove it, but keep an eye on them).
The right floor board has been leaky for a long time. The dealer claimed it's the aftermarket speakers. I say they just don't feel like troubleshooting the problem.
65,000 miles on my motorcycle hauler and going. Fresh tryanny flush & differential change. It's been a struggle sometimes, but I still like my truck. The new 07' has been redesigned, so there is hope. Note: They got rid of the grease fittings in the front-end, amen for that.
Subject: 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 2WD Extended Cab.
Have owned this truck since it was delivered to the dealership where I bought it. Now has 125k miles on it, I love my truck, but all these differant problems that have occured since bought are just overwhelming to all of us die hard Chevrolet truck owners. Brakes, ABS Sensor, Engine Knock, Throttle stick, Tailgate cables, Light bulb sockets, Shocks, ect... i could go on and on it seems. But I still love the truck. I feel for all you Silverado owners and digust, But I will never own a Ford or Forgein brand. I will keep this truck until the frame rots into. If I buy another truck, it will be a used one, But it will be a Chevy. Maybe the 2007 model will not have the problems as the 1999-2005 models.
I have a 2005 4 x 4 LT Silverado and have the steering column noise. Wondering what the bulletin was about that fixed the problem. Any help?
The problem I have with General Motors products are pretty general. I guess the biggest problem is the "little" things that go wrong with GM cars and trucks. For example, if you've ever had to do something as simple as change a tail light, you know that you're going to need a torx head screwdriver. What you may not be aware of is that you'll need more than one size of torx head screwdriver.
I'm a typical guy with a typical selection of tools, but I don't have every tool out there so I had to go to an auto parts store and purchase more tools. Total cost to replace a light bulb just tripled. On the other hand, I've owned "foreign" vehicles and I use the word "foreign" to mean that the vehicles were made here in the good ole USA unlike so called "American Made" which are actually made in other countries like Canada, Mexico, Brazil, etc. but that's another comment for another day. The point is, that with "foreign" vehicles, you can take a phillips head screwdriver and a 10mm wrench and darn near take the whole car apart. The only problem with that is that they don't break down, therefore, you don't have to use the tools that you do have, much less the tools you don't.
Not to mention that my GM vehicle just doesn't feel tight. It runs okay, but things like the switch for the AC/Heat doesn't work, can't change the oil because I can't get the hood latch open because first the cheap little piece of plastic junk broke and then after a couple of oil changes using pliers to open it by pulling the cable... the cable of course broke. The cheap plastic "cubby" in the passenger side door just fell off one day, but not because it was being abused. I rarely have anyone in the car with me but a client got in the car with me one day and opened the door and it fell off. Great job there GM.
Again, I'm not saying that my vehicle is a piece of junk, far from it. It's just that compared with so called "foreign" vehicles, it doesn't fare well in comparison. I can get in my Nissan that is almost as old and it still feels tight, doesn't have a squeak or rattle, feels like it could go from here to there, right now! In my GM, I feel like I'd better baby it a little. Not take any chances on any kind of maneuver such as going around a curve a little too quickly or heaven forbid, try to turn on the AC or Heat because, like I said before, they don't work. Sometimes, the heat will kick on about thirty miles into a drive but really, I don't drive 8.4 miles to the office anyway. So it is a cold drive every morning. I hesitate to put the windows down in the summer to try to get some air because the power windows are iffy. Most of the time they will work but not all the time. It never fails that if I can't get the window back up, it'll rain and then it's a soggy, humid drive back home but hey, at least I'm a little cooler in the summer.
My suggestion is this...
GM; start making your cars in America, by Americans using American engineering, American materials. That's what the Japanese car companies are doing. Why is it good enough for them and not for GM? If or when GM starts producing vehicles here, I'll be first in line to buy a new one. Until then, I'll just take my chances and money to a Nissan, Toyota or even to a Mitsubishi dealership.
I have a 2000 Silverado 4.8L with 95,000KM or 57,000miles on it!
1) I've had the cold engine piston slap and loud valve-train since it was new!
2) I'm already on my second U-Joint, and it is time for another one!
3) Tailgate straps broke, but thankfully there was a recall and I did not get hurt.
4) Throttle cable sticks every once and awhile, I find if I lube it with lithium grease it tends to fix it for awhile. But I am gonna try to clean the throttle body like you guys said.
5) I also have that driveline clunk noise, haven't really tried anything to fix that one yet, it is not that bad on my truck.
6) In winter (-37C) the tires through up rocks on gravel and destroyed my inner-fenderwells, but that is because I live in the cold-wintered Canada.
7) The lazy windows are very apparent in winter, and will basically seize tight for the winter months, but on the other hand, a guy should avoid using power-windows in winter because they can shatter. Sometimes it is hard to avoid using the windows in -30C when trying to hunt, but again, that is not a big problem.
8) My door speakers have come unglued and vibrate when trying to play music, I still gotta figure out how to get in there to fix it!
Other than these problems, I am happy with my truck, it is one of the few trucks that are still easy to repair without a GM mechanic. As well, many of my problems stem from the harsh climate I live in.
My buddy has a 2003 Silverado 5.3L with about 100,000miles, and he had these problems:
1) Most ball-joints have been done twice and the front seals and bearings.
2) The vibrations that come from the steering when turning are due to the intermediate steering shaft. It is not that hard to replace, make sure you have someone hold on to the steering wheel cause you can cause a major issue if it turns on you.
3) Water-pump gasket had to be done, but it is not a hard job.
Several other minor problems have been addressed, once again, it is due to our rough climate. Overall we are both happy with our trucks, they are very fixable by regular Joe's!
Aug 2 2008.
I own a 2006 Silverado Ext cab.
I am very disappointed in it. The dealer has been very good about everything that has gone bad. I finally contacted the Chevy customer service but they have been no help. They only want to be a liaison between me and the dealer but I don't need a liaison the problem is the truck it self, things just keep going bad. Again the dealer has tried to help.
What things have gone wrong with my truck?
Drive shaft creaking (Dealer replaced it)
Hood falls. (Replaced pistons) Hood still falls on hot days. Dealer says hood is heavy.
Noisy alternator (Dealer replaced it)
Front rotors replaced.
AC leak (Dealer replaced presser hose)
Steering shaft replaced.
Driver recline mechanism replaced.
Replace noisy power steering pump. (Noticed gas mileage improvement of.7 MPG after)
Replace driver side Hub bearing assembly.
Another new drive shaft installed.
All doors rusted on bottom inside. (Dealer repainted them)
Rust coming back 1 month later. Dealer agrees to fix but wait to see if all doors show rust.
I think I’m forgetting some stuff.
Oh my engine knocks when started. 5.3.
The truck has had a lot of problems and I'm afraid there will be more. I believe its time for a new truck. It only has 22,000 miles on it.
VERY SAD that customer service won't understand that I don't want a truck that I have to keep bringing back to the dealership. I think customer service bereaves that there is no problem and that the dealer will keep fixing things, well till the warranty is up of course. Then you’re on your own...
Any suggestions that could help will greatly be appreciated.
Thanks for reading.
I bought my 2000 Silverado in 03, 5.3 4x4.
After about a month or so I noticed when braking I would hear a grinding noise between 10 and 5 mph. A few more months went by and the truck started locking up between 10 and 5 mph, yeah I couldn't even push in the brake pedal at these speeds!
I carried it to the dealer to find out the sensor in the hubs had been rusted out! I paid for two new hubs and did the work myself!
About a year later after filling up one day, I crossed over a railroad track and lost one of the straps that holds the gas tank, luckily I had some bungie chords! The other strap wasn't far behind it!
The knocking in the engine I noticed is only there when it's cold out!
The four wheel drive is an absolute joke, and even changing over sucks out about 5 gallons of gas.
The truck does pull to the right and I was told at my last alignment they had to compensate for this in their alignment, because setting it straight was not the answer. Now it pulls to the left!!
Speakers are pieces of crap, and if you wanna change em out there are two screws in the door and it should lift up.
I'm about to change the U-joints, transmission fluid and filter and the rear seal (because it's leaking all over the place).
Haven't had a problem with rust on the doors, mine is mainly everywhere else and I continuously paint to manage it.
I'm still puzzled about the vibration (between 55 and 70), especially after an alignment and numerous balances. Hopefully, the U-joints are causing the problem!
After all this, I wouldn't drive anything else! I may need help.
I bought a used 2000 Silverado 1500 RCLB 2WD three years ago to replace my old truck, and three years later, I've still have the old truck.
My newer Silverado has been disappointing because I waited so long to get a nice truck. It has the 5.3 liter that knocks some when it's cold, but what's more annoying is that it ticks fairly loudly after starting it hot for 30 seconds or so. I run synthetic oil and better gas. but makes it makes no difference.
I always enjoyed hearing my old V8 roar to life and it made me Chevy proud. Now I try to turn the radio up when I start my newer truck to avoid hearing anything.
With 3 times the mileage (336,000 miles) and almost 4 times the age, the old truck is still a symbol of what made GM great. The new 2008 Silverados seem popular, but I think I bought my last Chevy three years ago.
Throw in a so-so auto transmission that won't shift out of 2nd. When it's cold, unless you whine it out, and it becomes so much easier taking the old truck to work and leaving the newer one sitting next to the garage during the winter. So much for trying to upgrade trucks.
GM should have left the solid 350 and manual transmissions (as an option at least) in their 2008 models. I probably would have one sitting at my parking space at work instead of sitting at home next to the garage in a snowbank.
I have a 2000 Silverado Z71 Extended Cab 4WD LT - fully loaded. It is a very poor quality vehicle, and has been since the day I took delivery in 2000.
All u-joints failed.
6 sets of front rotors.
3 sets of back rotors.
Backing plates, brake lines and fuel lines all rusted out.
Rear bumper rusted out.
Frame has rusted with some pinholes in it.
Engine knocking at startup.
Bottom of rockers rusting out.
Drivers leather seat cracking extensively.
Vehicle today has only 50k miles on it. Both GM and the dealer were largely unhelpful, and the dealer (Sun Chevrolet) failed to fix issues that they charged for.
This is a very lightly used vehicle, and is the worst vehicle I have ever owned. It is the 7th GM truck I've bought new, but as a result of this I will never purchase another GM vehicle as long as I live.
I have a 2000 Z-71 with 180000 miles. They have been hard miles; this truck has been ramped, ran through numerous mud holes towed over 12000 pounds on many occasions. Yet the only thing I have had to replace is the steering arm and power steering pump.
The truck has been serviced regularly and maintained by myself no one else. It still gets 18 mpg and runs very fast.
I would never buy a piece of crap Ford, Dodge or any foreign product. This has been by far the best vehicle I have ever owned.
Oh yeah, by the way, this cold start knock is caused by not using a specific AC Delco filter. I know this cause mine did it too when I used to use fram filters. Was told by a very knowledgeable mechanic that I needed to use this certain filter, and the knock completely went away. Chevy all the way!
RE: "Oh yeah, by the way, this cold start knock is caused by not using a specific AC Delco filter. I know this cause mine did it too when I used to use fram filters. Was told by a very knowledgeable mechanic that I needed to use this certain filter, and the knock completely went away. Chevy all the way!"
What is the filter I should use on my 2000 Silverado 5.3 L?
I doubt the start up knock is caused by an oil filter. I've used many different brands of filters on my 2001 4.8 Silverado and the cold start knock has never changed. It started doing that when the truck had around 50k miles. It now has almost 80k miles and the knock seems to be getting worse to the point if it is very cold outside it almost scares me.
I have a 2000 Chevy 4x4 LT. 90000 miles.
Rust on both quarter panels, replaced, 1600.00.
Cab corners and rocker panels rusted, 1300.00.
Leather seats cracked, 625.00.
Engine knocking on start up???
O2 sensor out, 350.00.
new brakes /rotors, 400.00.
I am unhappy to the most part, but was proud of my truck. Now I am almost embarrassed to drive it. I'm to the point I do not want to put more cash in it.
Going back to Toyota (made in Indiana). I am saying this and I am a strong union man.
2006 Silverado Ext cab,23,500 miles. All four doors rusting, both front & rear bumpers rusting, all four chrome covered rims rusting. This truck lives in Maine, it gets run in the auto car wash every week during the winter months. Nice weather I do it myself. Full wax & buff twice a year. I maintain this truck very well. Now I notice all four doors are rusting on the bottom seem along with all the other rust I mentioned. Anyone else have this much rust on such a new truck?