15th Jan 2007, 21:53
The intake manifold leak may be more of an issue than you think. The fitting on the coolant hose that connects to your heater core becomes brittle and will eventually burst. I had mine go out at about 110K miles. I replaced the hose, fitting and manifold gasket. I refuse to do that again.
This could also be a cause for poor heater function. That same hose from the heater can clog up with gummed up coolant.
19th Jan 2007, 04:42
Well I went ahead and had the intake manifold gasket replaced on my 1998 1500 Z-71 Silverado. Funny thing is as was stated in a previous comment, I too had to have the fitting replaced that attaches the heater hose to the intake because when the dealer was removing the the hose it broke. (Hmmmmm, maybe there is problem with this design!). Don't get me wrong though, as I have stated earlier I am a true GM fan. You can take any manufacturer and they too have there problems I just wish with all these complaints about the same problems maybe they would step up and take some responsibility.
27th Jan 2007, 11:24
Been there, done that on the coolant leaks on my 1998 Silverado. Intake manifold gasket job AND water pump replacement at 100K. Heater hose fitting on intake manifold broke where threaded into manifold at 120K. Just replaced the cheezy plastic retainer for the same fitting yesterday at 145K as it had become brittle and broke, allowing coolant to leak. Also, two co-workers with same vintage trucks have had the same problems at virtually the same mileages. Anyone seeing a trend here?
21st May 2007, 11:41
I too own a 1998 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 pick-up. I bought it in 1999 and still own it and I'm sure I have paid half the purchase price in upkeep! I too had the intake gasket leak at about 130,000. What a job. I have replaced two fuel pumps, water pump, and timing chain collapsed at about 90,000 miles. $1800 later it was back on the road. I also had the anti-lock go bad kicking in with the slightest touch of the brakes. Wheel hub bearings have been my worst thing though replacing them 8 times alternate sides. One time I even lost the front wheel only being held on by the axle nut at 65 mph due to the center twisting out of the rotor. I also have the radio light burned out problem. One thing good I can say, it's always had good heat. I dearly love my Chevy and would have to cause I wouldn't have put up with all these repairs for anything else! I realize wear-n-tear is with every vehicle, but this one has wore me down. It sits more than it gets drove!
16th Jul 2007, 10:50
I wrote the original review. Here is a follow-up.
Driver's side door handle (el-cheapo pot metal) broke about 3 weeks ago (upper right corner of it cracked).
It still worked, but because that corner (about a 1/2" x 1/2" section) had broken out, the whole handle assembly would pull about 1/8" out of the door when you pulled on it to open the door, and it was getting worse. Rather than pay $150 for a dealer to take the whole door apart to replace it, I loaded up the whole thing with JB Weld 2-part epoxy (mixed it up and fill in the entire missing area). That seems to have it fixed. I'll probably mix up some more, mixed with black enamel, to make finish it up and make it look better.
As for the manifold coolant leak - this is a CHRONIC problem with Chevy truck V-8 engines. I actually put some Barr's Leak stop in the radiator and it has worked like a charm. Some people swear this stuff doesn't work, or gums up their cooling system. I think the key is, it works for SLIGHT leaks, not MAJOR ones. AND, it is very important to thoroughly shake it up, put it in the radiator, and then run the truck for a solid 30 minutes like the directions say. Don't just run it for 5 minutes and turn it off.
Anyway, that was 8 months ago, and it has not lost any coolant since.
I have had to replace the starter.
Also, the battery cables at the battery end corroded very badly - another CHRONIC GM problem with their sealed Delco batteries. I cut away all the corroded metal and rubber on the ends, soaked them in a baking soda solution to boil off all the corrosion, sanded them down to clean copper, and they are fine now (on a new battery). That's been about 6 months, and they are still looking good.
I stick with my original assessment. This truck runs great and is nice, but is a VERY expensive and trouble-prone vehicle. This was the 2nd GM pickup I've owned (last was the '89), and this will be the last one. They blew it.
26th Oct 2007, 17:28
Bought my 1998 Silverado CK1500 new in fall of 1997. Have 63,000 miles on it now since it is second vehicle.
First problem was windshield wiper circuit board at 40K went bad while driving in Canada ($250). Made it back home using some "Rain Guard".
Then the speed sensitive power steering caused wobbling while driving at 45k ($800).
ABS sensors went bad in front at 50K ($300).
Antifreeze began leaking from engine gasket at 52K ($800).
Then universal joint made squeaky noise at 53K ($150).
Door handle almost fell apart on drivers side at 54K ($75).
Then at 55K I had a strong odor of burning transmission fluid, a seal was leaking onto the exhaust manifold, ($1200) for transmission overhaul.
Now at 62K I had a problem with a very loud noise from the engine and had low power when accelerating. Was told I need an engine overhaul, which would be $3,500.
That's it, I give up and right now it is sitting in my driveway until I sell it for parts. Going to get a new Honda Pilot, which should last much longer since I no longer need a truck bed.
25th Feb 2008, 21:23
I am the original poster.
First, regarding the person before this post, whose RPMs are fluctuating +/- 500 RPM at driving speed, watch out for this one. Our 2003 Trailblazer just experienced that same symptom, caused by the transmission torque converter lock-up randomly locking and unlocking. It was a VERY expensive repair, so I would have this checked out.
Continuing on with my 1998 Silverado... looks like the brake light switch has now failed - no brake lights. I did the diagnostic detective digging. It's not the bulbs, relay or fuses, and the 3rd eye light doesn't work either. All other tail light functions work (turn signal, tail light, backup, hazard).
Another thing I forgot, one of the transmission cooler lines rotted out and started leaking fluid badly. Luckily, I was able to get home and get it repaired.
Batter cable at the starter rotted out, had to be replaced. But at this many miles, that isn't surprising.
The manifold gasket leak has still not returned - I guess the Barr's Leak stuff did the trick - I know, I probably got lucky. The truck is now up to about 150,000 miles.
BTW if people want info on how to replace the burned out radio lights, I did a big write-up on the procedure over at www.howtomendit.com. Search there and you will find it.