1st Jan 2011, 14:29
Purchased 1998 Silverado in 2004... 80,000 miles... had to replace engine at 116,000... now need to replace driver's side inside and outside door handles and dimmer switch... enjoy the truck... still a good investment... no car payment...
5th Jan 2011, 13:54
I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado K1500 Z-71 4x4. I bought this truck used with 78,000 miles on it. Shortly after I bought it, the problems began.
The dealer removed the plow, power programmer, trailer brake control, and intake spacer... But did not disconnect any power lines. So first thing that happened (about two weeks after I bought it) was the electrical system fried. Even though the truck was bought as-is, they fixed it for nothing.
Intake manifold gasket x 2.
Fuel pump x 2.
Anti lock brake sensors faulty, just pulled the fuse.
Front wheel bearings.
Air conditioning out.
Radio lights out, CD player doesn't work.
Rear main seal leaking.
Exhaust rots off about every other year, now the y-pipe broke off.
Heater switch/control board needed to be replaced
Windshield wiper control board needed to be replaced.
Check engine light on-codes po102, po103, po336, po446, p1404.
Front suspension - idler arm, pitman arm.
Steering pump x 2.
Steering hydraulic lines.
Fuel gauge needle vibrates.
Gas tank needed replaced.
Cruise control doesn't work.
Well the steering was just done, and as you can see all parts were replaced. The truck still does not want to steer when at a stop. Don't know what to do now.
The truck now has 150,000 miles
I love this truck, but the problems are really getting to me. Mechanics are not cheap, and I'm not rich.
6th Jan 2011, 09:33
I've owned my 98 Chevy Silverado since 2001. Had 179,000km when I bought it, now has 340,000km.
Same ole problems; radio lights, heater motor, front end ball joints, tie rods, CV-joint.
No rotors replaced, pads and shoes yes, but that is normal.
Rear axle seals, tail gate cables, but had them done under recall free.
No door handle problems, rear tailgate yes, plastic clips fall off every 4 months, so I drilled a hole in the rods and put in cotter pins, fixed for life.
Water pump replaced at 200,000, fuel pump done, got quoted 2800.00 to fix, bought pump for 800.00, cut hole in box, 15 minute fix. Saved 2000.00.
Truck has no rust on it besides above the front windshield.
I put 22 inch rims on it, chrome gas cap, chrome bug deflector, chrome Z-71 stickers, chrome window visors, chrome on the whole bottom of truck, and the inch strip all the way to the box.
Has changed the T.P.S twice now in 12 years, the problem acts like a fuel problem but isn't, won't rev over 3000rpms, kinda like the tranny is slipping, replace TPS and all good.
The truck has its normal everyday problems like any other manufacturer has, but all in all, hot looking trucks...
20th Feb 2011, 20:45
I have a '97 Silverado. 5.7, 350. Essentially the same truck as the '98. Nearly every symptom I have read, I have encountered.
Intake manifold, radio, speakers, wiper motor, tailgate latch and cable, rotor, brakes, blower motor, water pump x2, starter x3, fuel pump, injectors... you name it, I've done it.
I do not abuse my vehicles, that's the funny thing. My truck looks good and rides good, but it will leave you sat on the side of the road in a heartbeat. Too bad, I've always had a Chevy truck around too. I would never ever buy another Chevrolet truck again. You take the good with the bad, and every manufacturer has its glitches... that's the way it is. With so many similar complaints, you would think that something would be done about it. This truck is just a pig.
25th Feb 2011, 23:32
1998 K1500 4.3L V-6 5-speed manual transmission.
Just passed 278K on the odometer and going strong. I spend about $500 to $1000 per year on maintenance, repairs, and upkeep. When you consider a monthly vehicle payment, insurance, and registration versus repairing an older vehicle, you should stick with a reliable older vehicle. Bought my truck in 1999 with 25K miles on it. I believe this is the best vehicle I have ever owned (been driving since 1973). Parts are easy to source, and almost anybody can fix what is beyond my knowledge. Plan on driving this truck till I can see through the floor pan. Thanks, Chevy.
9th Apr 2011, 14:58
I have had many of the same issues with my '98 Z71, and like you I cannot figure out the uphill misfire. Have tried numerous things. I read somewhere that it could be a sticking valve. Have you had any luck since this post? Thanks.
28th Apr 2011, 18:41
I am in the process of getting parts together for a complete tune up - spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap and upgrade the coil and dyna module. I am also going to replace the plastic distributor with an aluminum distributor and install Doug Throlley headers.
I think the problem with the up hill stutter is due to misfiring (typically code PO300). When I resealed the intake manifold, I was not aware of unique timing set up with the vortec motor. You should check that cam retard is within plus or minus 2 degrees of zero. When this was reset on mine (dealer), it idled like a Lexus and no misfire. Unfortunately I have to reset it again when I replace the distributor. Hopefully I can find someone cheaper with the proper scanner to reset it. The misfires can be caused from a list of things, but in my case the loose timing chain, probably worn distributor gear and distributor removal contributed to the problem.
13th Nov 2011, 15:02
I had a similar problem with my truck. It turned out to be the positive leads from the truck to the battery. The rubber seems to wear out and cause a loose connection. Started every now and then, then more frequently. When I hit a bump, it would just die. I put a washer between the leads and the battery, hey, it made the problem go away. I never thought that that a loose connection and a good alternator would allow the truck to just die, but it's 8,000 miles later with no more sudden deaths.
15th Mar 2012, 19:20
I have 220,000 on my 98 Chevy 1500 350 Vortec. I bought it with 189,000. The guy whom had it before me did little if any maintenance work to the truck, so I caught all the repairs.
195k, intake manifold gaskets, pinion seal for the rear end, shocks, upper and lower ball joints, and catalytic convertor went out, so I had them cut off, and Glasspacks and 3.5 inch stainless true dual pipes were put on. Inside door handle (free at my local junkyard).
200k, fuel pump went out. I keep my foot in it most of the time, and the oil pressure at roughly 180 degrees. It sits on 50 cruising down the interstate, and goes to around 65 when over 2500 RPM, and on idle sits around 35 to 40.
I do not have much room to complain about the expensive repairs to my truck, because I do all my own repairs, and have saved myself thousand's doing it myself. It is ridiculous what dealers and mom and pop mechanic shops are charging.
Chevy is what I will always and only drive.
25th Jun 2015, 19:27
No start with a new fuel pump is more than likely your crankshaft position sensor. Easy to replace. One 10mm bolt on the bottom of the engine and a plug. I got mine for less than $50.00.