I too have a 2005 300 with the bigger V6 that uses a quart of oil every 1500 miles. It has 50,000 miles on it and is well cared for.
I have the same car. I purchased it new, and after only 2 to 3 years after buying it, I have had to add oil before the oil change was due. I have always kept up with oil changes, but it doesn't make sense to me that I have to add oil.
I have a 2005 Chrysler 300 Touring 3.5. Bought it in 06, and the car has been great until now.
I have had to replace the PGR valve, and now my car has been stalling and bucking like a bull when I am sitting at a light or stop sign. I had the map sensor replaced, the pedal position sensor changed, and lastly the throttle body changed. This is still NOT the problem. My ESP/BAS light is on. And also the electrical light just flashes. I have taken the car to a Chrysler dealer, and they can't even tell me what the problem is. Does anyone have a clue what my issue may be??
I have the exact same problem right now with my 2005 Chrysler 300C. Out of nowhere the electrical and ESP BAS lights came on last weekend, my car kept shaking and stopping, especially when I slowed down or stopped at a light. Now it either won't go over 20 mph, or just stops completely.
I've had the car for over 2 years without these problems (just the usual front end issues). The only thing I've done differently is I recently had a free oil change at Midas. The first time the car stopped on me for good, the oil light came on too (with the electric & ESP BAS lights). I was SURE it couldn't be an oil issue, since I just had it changed weeks ago. But after checking the oil, the "new" oil Midas put in my car was MUCH FILTHIER than the "old" oil they removed.
I'm taking my car back up there the first chance I get, because I'm almost certain their oil change was the cause...
Did you ever find out what was wrong with your car??? I have the exact same problem.
One cause of excessive oil consumption on my 2005 Chrysler 3.5 is the 6 runner port butterfly flaps controlled by a motor / solenoid on the driver's side, which get stuck open or open prematurely before 5k RPM. This creates a vacuum on other cylinders from cylinders that are on a down stroke for intake or combustion. The oil gets sucked up from the crankcase and is burned, but not enough to see smoke coming from the tailpipe.
The bushings between the runner ports are rubber; they don't appear to be neoprene. They swell and make it difficult for the 'PLASTIC' rod (runner flaps and swivel rod that goes through the bushings); this is one plastic injection molded piece. It cannot be removed for service.
I have been using silicone spray to keep the rubber from sticking and binding to the plastic shaft. The rubber bushings swell from cleaners, oil, heat, dirt particulates, and time.
Some oil will always get into vehicles with plenums.
I would recommend using synthetic oil (Mobil 1 only) as it doesn't cook causing sludge, anywhere near the degree conventional oils do.
Many of the Chrysler engine issues; premature internal engine parts wear, etc... are from using conventional oils; they cook and smoke, causing PCV problems and sludge. Sludge & oil films conduct heat, accelerating wear.
Given the poor designs of these engines, anything but synthetic oil would be foolish. Make sure it is true full synthetic. Some brands claim to be, but are not. Loopholes!
Do your research. Don't be fooled by web sites or so called experts trying to recommend or sell parts. Many get kick-backs, are dealers, or parts sales persons.
The world is full of trickery and deceit.
Good luck and many miles.
Sean, they actually are neoprene. The guy at dealer told me that. Synthetic oil is a ripoff man - that's just a ploy by Mobil 1 to increase the price of their product. It functions the same as natural oil. In terms of sludge, all you gotta do is fill up with 93 octane gas (should be able to find it somewhere in your area) and go plant your foot to the floor on that pedal out on the open road. It'll shudder a bit, then blow out some black and possibly white smoke. All that sludge will be gone. The cost of a tank of gas is less than a synthetic oil swap, so that's what I'd do.
I too had sunroof problems. Bought a new 2006 300, the dealer totally removed and replaced the complete unit... ended the problem.
My transmission also had to be totally replaced as well. I guess there are lemons in all cars.
I have bought two more since, now have a 2013 AWD, 6 cyl, 8 speed tranny, getting 31.4 MPG on my trips. All is great... love my car!!!
All of you using 10w30 should try using 10w40. I was using at least 2 quarts in 5k miles, and switching to 10w40 Havoline Deposit Shield Convention cut that consumption in half. The car has just over 100k on it and I noticed the oil consumption around 50k. Chryslers are s**t and this will be my last one. I've owned many Fords, and never had a Ford use oil like this.
I would be scared to use 10W40 in the winter where I live. It frequently gets below zero Fahrenheit, and it is not unheard of for it to get as cold as -40.
Even with an engine block heater plugged in, the 5W20 in my Ford 4.6 looks like honey or maple syrup on the dipstick when I check it on a cold morning.