I had the oil pressure light looked at this weekend and needed to have the oil pressure sender switch replaced, costed $89 with the oil change, not too bad I guess.
I own a 1997 Chrysler Sebring JXI, the fully loaded model. My car has had all the same problems mentioned in the original comment.
Water leaks over the driver's side window, especially with washing.
The paint on the interior door handles is chipping off, looking very tacky.
The sending unit was sending too much electricity to the starter motor, causing a 20 cent 'peanut fuse' to blow on a regular basis. The first time this happened, the car was towed approximately 20km to the dealership. The problem cost $120 to diagnose, including labor! The starter and sending unit was later replaced under warranty after completely burning up. This happened at about 70,000km.
The oil pressure light used to come on when I would stop the car, but I ignored it and it seems to have given up now.
The odometer and tachometer click on and off (mostly off) of their own free will.
Had to replace the rotors once and the brakes still squeak incessantly, extremely annoying.
One of the rear hub mechanisms wore out and almost seized up. The mechanic was very perplexed by the sound it made and informed me if I had not brought the car in, the wheel could have locked up causing an accident. I can now hear the other side going... this cost $150 plus labor to repair.
The car has begun to falter and nearly stalls when shifted into drive... very disturbing.
Both front end tie rod arms have worn out, needing replacement. These cost $125 each plus labor. The problem caused an alignment problem that burned off a really expensive set of Fulda tires...grrrr.
The top is falling apart around the rear window.
The rear defrost is non-functional because the contact point needs to be re-connected. I just haven't got around to fixing it.
Oh yeah, the remote stops working periodically. Also the interior light has begun to click on and off in a rather ghostly fashion, only when the driver side door is open. Oh yeah, that little pin holding the driver's door is broken causing an annoying 'ping' when I open the door.
Hmmmm...what else will go wrong? Anyone want to buy a really nice car?
I have a 1996, reading these comments made me smile. I have all the exact same problems as you have described, plus a few more.
My Car has 120,567 miles now... odometer is fine top is OK.. just the cd changer won't play seats are torn... but I love my car.
I have had so many things go wrong with this wreck, that all I can suggest to you is to sell it while it's still running. I can't give mine away, so I'm gonna take joy in watching this horrible car get crushed.
Make no mistake, this is a very badly designed and built car, and the trouble is all you can expect.
I should mention that my father is a mechanic, and will not have anything to do with the car.
I bought a used 1997 Satellite Sebring JXI convertible for my daughter and the car has been great. Only the top is a problem (showing wear) and after 12 years I would expect that. She has over 100,000 miles on the car so far and it has been good to her for 4 years. After reading these comments I have to KNOCK on WOOD.
I bought a used 2000 JXI with 18k miles, and it now is 10 years old with about 76k miles. Very nice smooth driver. Best enjoyed top-down. The only thing that does not work is the cassette player, and like many other folks I have the oil light on at idle when hot, but it is intermittent so I am more inclined to take a direct reading on a gauge and change the sending unit.
Has never been to the dealer for any repair, and the only thing that does not work at the moment is the cassette player.
My 1997 Sebring JXI convert. has 70,000 miles.
So far it's had a "complete" AC system replaced... a new top (because the stitching fell out)...
I've had to put seat covers on the leather seats because the driver's seat has become "holey"..'
The sound system speakers in the door have both cracked...
The rear view mirror (inside the car) has a huge discoloration in the middle of it... and now the steering wheel (when turned) started to make a squealing noise.
Oh...there's also an engine oil leak that the mechanics can't seem to find.
Other than these things, I really like the car!!!
Can anyone tell me where the squealing is coming from when the wheel is turned? A mechanical shop said it was the struts in the front... but now the noise has mysteriously disappeared. HELP.
STRUTS?! SQUEALING?!?! WOW! I've never heard that one before! Ha!
No way it the struts unless you installed bigger wheels and tires that are rubbing on them during turns (however, this would be more of a rubbing/grumbling sound and you would feel the whole car vibrate.)
The most likely problem is a loose power steering belt. I had the same issue with my car on occasion (meaning that it wouldn't always do it. Like you stated it has stopped for now) when you turned the wheel, the power steering pump would have to work harder, but the belt wasn't tight enough to exert enough force on the pulley to turn the pump, so the belt would squeal and the wheel would become slightly harder to turn.
If it's not the belt, then it's the power steering pump itself that needs replacing.
By the way, I highly recommend you find a new repair shop.
Struts... Ha, that's a laugh.
I'm amazed with the comments. I bought my 1996 Sebring JXi Convertible new in August 1996, and have not had most of the problems mentioned.
My drivers seat is worn and has a tear, but that is after 13 years and 125,000 miles.
I do have the tach and odometer problem.
Very few outright repairs. Oxygen sensor, water pump etc.
Never had any work done to the front end, and the car still steers straight as an arrow. Bought my 3rd set of tires at 110,000.
I love the car, I wish my wife's 300 would be as dependable. The 6 cylinder gives me plenty of power.
The rear defogger stopped working, but since I moved to SC, I don't care.
RE: Sloshing in the rear panels, floor leaks.
I am amazed that everyone is puzzled about why it leaks. Look at the top where it meets the body. Water HAS to go inside the car, since it does not seal like a hardtop.
The problem is that Chrysler did a poor job in making it so that the water would drain out. There are some drain plugs that are supposed to let the water out of the back window area, there is ALSO a very narrow slot on each side where the body panels are seamed together that HAVE to be kept clean. It is a narrow slot... use a nail file or something like that to check to see if water is being held.
The problem is that leaves or other stuff that goes in with the water tends to plug up the slot from the inside, thus it backs up and overflows into the floor boards.
It is a bad design, but if you understand what is going on, you can prevent soggy shoes when it rains.