28th Dec 2010, 16:58

Hi, I've got an S reg 1998 Ka2. I've had it a couple of months, and not too good with cars. Since having my car, when coming to a stop, it makes a loud revving noise when my foot isn't on the accelerator, is this my engine over revving itself?

Also, when reversing now and again, my clutch would feel as if it's getting stuck, and my gearstick would be stuck in reverse, and would need quite a hard pull to get it out and then stall. From this, now my clutch has gone all floppy, and a liquid has come out of the bottom of the car? Could anybody tell me what the problem is, and how much this could cost?


7th Apr 2011, 14:23

I had the problem with the revving. But it only cost me £30 to get fixed. It's not anything major, so don't worry about it too much.

6th Jul 2011, 06:06


How much did it cost to get the water tank replaced?


12th Aug 2011, 14:39

Well I have the same car. It's the most reliable car I have ever owned. Very cheap on fuel. It has never broken down in 6 years. You must just have a bad one. I'm up to 82000 miles on mine; never missed a beat.

31st Jul 2012, 11:53

Hi, I have a 2002 Ford Ka. I have owned it for 6 years, and it has now done 143,000 miles! Used it very hard, carried all my work tools all around the country, including the odd cement mixer! I kid you not!

Never had any real issues; just a couple of broken suspension springs (too much weight in it!), a coil pack (a right pig to change!), and the driver's door lock will not unlock from outside.

In all, not too serious, and I am well happy, as it's great fun to drive, you can park it anywhere, and it's great in the snow too! Does 40-55 MPG, and cruises at 80+ on the motorway. Will definitely get another when it dies!

21st Sep 2012, 07:45

It's called a heater matix.

21st Dec 2012, 18:50

I am wondering if you found out what the cause of your car problem was? I'm having a similar problem, as every time I brake a little, the car stalls. I recently had a new clutch fitted, as my old one burnt out, I've also had rewiring done since my indicator and lights went crazy due to an earthing problem. Now my Ford Ka keeps stalling when I brake. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! :)

14th Feb 2013, 04:26

Hi there, I have just been looking at some of the troubleshooting on here, and came to your comments. How easy was it removing the throttle body, as am ready to take my girlfriend's off her 2002 Ka? I have got carb and throttle body cleaner, and got new jubilee clips, as I know trying to put the original clips back on is a pain.

It has 70 odd thousand miles, it's had a full brand new exhaust system fitted, but is occasionally stalling, which I thought was just her driving ha ha, but I have looked and there are 2 sensors on these. The one on top of the manifold and lower down in the engine. I am considering buying them both if the throttle body clean out doesn't work.

Thanks, as finding your comment, even from 2006, has been very useful in direction with this.

16th Feb 2013, 03:18

The stalling is probably the crankshaft sensor, mate!

12th Apr 2013, 15:38

Not putting your foot on the clutch ? ;)

29th Nov 2014, 06:36

I have experienced the same problem with my 98 Ford Ka as well.

It wasn't the idle control valve, not the air intake, not the TPS, not the MAF, not the fuel pressure, not the ECU, not the lambda sensor... not even the speed sensor itself... just the fact that the vehicle speed sensor wasn't connected to any power source. The precious owner had her car stall for years at roundabouts and junctions, and all that was needed was to reconnect the two plugs of the electricity cable that lead to the VSS. As the owner before her apparently thought it was a good idea to unhook the speed sensor from its power cable. He even taped off the loose ends.

This also solved the P0500 fault code (thru OBD2).

Hope this helps someone in the future.

10th Mar 2015, 12:06

Help. My daughter has a 54 Ford KA with the Duratec engine. She has had it about a year to learn to drive and has hardly driven it due to her shift patterns, but now is unable to drive it. The problem we keep getting is that the car starts OK, but once a little warm, if you try to accelerate, there is nothing, and if you try too much, you can end up getting a back fire. I have connected it to a diagnostic tool and the codes coming up are PO106 & PO122. Before I dive in and replace both the barometric pressure sensor (MAP) and the throttle position sensor, does anyone have any other ideas?