2003 Ford Mondeo Ghia X 2.0 TDCi turbo diesel from Serbia
Aims at the Passat, but it misses
Before I get into details about what is wrong with the car, I just wanted to say that I bought this car when it was 4 1/2 years old (6 months after warranty expired), and the car was maintained properly, as it was stated in the service book.
Had a clang noise when changing from 3rd to 4th gear, and when engaging in first gear. Thought that it was DMF, changed it, with the whole clutch assembly, but the problem persisted. Don't know what is it. My friend bought a new Mondeo same as mine, and at 80000 km it is starting to show the same symptoms.
At full throttle the car kinda stalls at 2700-3200 RPM. I was told that the fins on the turbo (variable geometry) are a little jammed, so it is not opening correctly. Turbo was serviced/ cleaned, but the problem is still there. Not as much as it used to be, but it is still there.
Rattle at steering rack when the car is at idle. Rattle is coming from where the steering rack is connected to the steering column. When I turn the steering wheel, the rattle disappears.
Rattle at dashboard, close to windscreen. I tried to screw it, but it is all tight as it should be.
Rattle at the drivers doors. It is particularly sensitive to acceleration and deceleration. When I accelerate - click, when I brake - click. So annoying!
When I got the car, I saw that almost a third of the windscreen heaters are not working.
Sometimes I cannot open the boot, since the lock when I press the button won't open, so I have to either use a key, or unlock it from the drivers inner commands.
A wobble appeared since 155000. It turned out to be tripod on the drive shafts (inner CV joint), so I had to change both of them. Why do I need to change this at 150000 km?
Self leveling on the lights (xenon), are not working most of the time. My lights are permanently down. One day they just move to the correct position by themselves.
Almost all of the doors had rust at their bottoms. I have a signature'd service book stating that the car what rust-free. What? How can the Ford dealer miss this? Probably they did not wanted to replace it under warranty.
My rear right brake caliper is jamming, and I can feel that the car is slowing rapidly, and the tyre rim can be very hot.
Besides the problems described above, the car is fairly nice to drive.
I replaced the braking pads for "EBC green stuff", but the car does not brake as it should do. I recently drove a Volvo, and I was thrilled to see how well this car brakes.
Transmission is well-balanced, and it can cruise on motorways effortless, and fast.
Cabin materials are nice to touch, and they feel and look expensive.
Sat nav is excellent, although it rattles. Sound system is very good. I am a musician, and I can tell you, the sound is very, very good.
When I try to maneuver the car to park or whenever I need to do fast, the car usually stalls. Like I need to press the gas pedal almost half a second earlier in order to get a response. Don't know if it's related to turbo jamming, or what. My mechanic told me that it was a safety measure to prevent premature wear on the DMF, so the car shuts itself off.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No
Review Date: 23rd July, 2010
9th Jun 2012, 08:31
You have 12 years of warranty for rust problems, so if you have the service book stamped up to date, then put in a claim for this.
I do believe the bottom of doors rusting is a known fault with some Mondeos, and should be fixed free of charge if under 12 years old.
30th May 2016, 15:13
I have a 2003 Mondeo Sport pack 130bhp. I'm the 2nd owner. It drives well, BUT, I'm on the second starter at 95000 miles, the EGR was blocked up, I've cleaned it, plus the induction manifold, which made the continual cutting out under load better to a degree.
It runs lumpy, unless under load, if it pulls 6th gear for long, & I'm talking motorway, level, 70+mph, the heater light comes on, & the engine cuts out, as above. This is particularly disconcerting on the fast lane!!
I've replaced silencer/exhaust/wheel bearings/all rear brake pipes/alloy wheels etc. etc.
Some background... I am a Licenced Aircraft Engineer, with many years also in the motor trade, I can do most repair/replacement jobs. Also, I'm not a boy racer (at 70 years of age!!)
The DMF is rattling badly, & clearly demolished the previous starter. I'm very aware that the DMF is on its last legs, but at £300+ for parts + the awful job doing it... must be worth £300 of anybody's money, the thing is being driven to the scrap yard this week.
A truly awful car! I've owned many vehicles, from a 1932 Austin thru Jags, VWs, Hondas, Nissans, BMWs etc, etc.
My advice... Don't touch one with a barge pole... even if it's FREE!
I used a 78 Skoda Estelle many years ago... a better car by far! And that was before VW took the helm.