I have a 98' TS Astra and have also had problems with the creaks from the front passenger door and the rattling from the top centre of the hatch.
I've told the dealer 4 times about the rattling from the hatch. The first 3 times they couldn't find anything with it. The 4th time they told me that the lock was broken. They changed it but still rattled.
So what I did was, I took all the paneling off the hatch and the brake light as well. I then put foam in between the top part of the back window and the hatch. Then fitted everything back, and have to say that it has stopped rattling.
As for the front passenger door, I've told them 2 times, both times they've changed the rubber around the window, but it still creaks.
If anyone has any ideas let us know.
How did you remove the panelling from around the inside of the hatch or can you remove the stop light without removing the panelling?
The creak in the front door area was significantly improved by Holden when (according to them) they tightened some suspension component underneath the car.
To take the centre brake light off you have to take all the panelling off.
To remove the panelling, you have to remove the screws with an alan key, then grab the black part of the panel and start pulling down with care so the clips won't break.
Now for the panelling around the window, there 2 ways to take them off. The way I did it, was to pull them off really carefully so the clips won't break. The other way to take them off is to pull the panels towards the inside or outside of the car (I can't remember the exact way). I tried this later but I found it was very difficult.
When the panels are off, unscrew the centre brake light with the same allen key. Then get a piece of foam (30cm x 30cm) and fold it, and tuck it in the opening between the window and body.
Has anyone noticed a hole in the plastic that is under the front windscreen?
It's where the wipers sit, on the passenger side.
I think it's for the water to go down.
I've also been experiencing some weird creaking sounds coming from both doors of my 2001 Astra 3 door. They seem to mainly arise when hitting medium size potholes at low speeds or going over speed bumps. I've got no idea why they have suddenly appeared and even less idea how to fix them. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
I currently own a Holden Astra GSI (96TR). And am at the point where I'm looking at the new 3door TS, I'm hoping to get mags, lowered sup., concept trim and Exhaust all fitted standard.
But what I was writing about is the speakers, I believe the Astra TR has the same speakers as the TS. And replacement can be done only the original speakers have to be destroyed. I upgraded my speakers to some Kenwood splits and must admit I have noticed very little difference the standard speakers are great!!!
If anyone has any ideas on something I should look out for when getting my new TS please e-mail me: email@example.com.
I thing I have to say about the speakers is that the front one's are pretty good, but the back one's are pathetic.
I'm trying to find a pair of 5" JBL splits. Or Pioneer.
Holden have indicated to me a software revision for the 2001 Astra throttle problems may come out in Feb 2002. It may not make a lot of difference as many of the drive-by-wire Opel type cars have similar throttle problem in the quest for low emissions.
If they just disconnected the air conditioner controls from the computer it may at least stop the engine revving unnecessarily with the air on.
Holden do no see the throttle as a problem and all concerned owners should make them aware of what a detraction it is.
The software upgrade has not eventuated and GMH have not kept me informed of any developments.
My car remains fault free although the dash switch controlling the air recirculation only works now and again and second gear is a little un-smooth when cold as noted by other owners.
Door creak. I had the creak on both front doors of my Astra (CD hatch). I duplicated the problem by leaning heavily on the door armrest with my elbow with the door shut. I fixed the problem permanently by applying some lube to the black plastic that the door locking mechanism hits on the striker plate bolted to the B pillar. I think this plastic piece must squeak on the metal under it when the door is shut. Whatever, problem solved.
When I first bought the Opel\Vauxhall Astra I convinced myself that I needed to get used to the gears and throttle response, but after 6 months I still have trouble trying to drive the car smoothly (I have had no problems with previous cars that I have owned). The gearbox gives a notchy feel. 1st to 2nd clunks, impossible to do a quick change from 2nd to 3rd and all other changes does not give the driver confidence.
I'm trying to look for a solution to the throttle problem. I've herd of a throttle angle system that removes the need for the air meter that is causing the delay. This might sort it, but cannot find any info on this or a solution to the problem in general. I suspect nothing can be done about the notchy gears.
I would like to agree with the posting regarding the Opel-Vauxhall/ Holden Astra Gear- Change, listed 25th of July 2002.
Not to mention that other ever-present problem of the Engine-Management System, hanging onto, and in fact increasing revs. by about 500 RPM, when changing gears.
Honestly, people just don't get it! Although I now own the Astra convertible, I used to drive an Astra (CD sedan) and it was absolutely fabulous!!! I had no problems and the car was very quiet and zippy and handled excellently around corners!!! I suppose that comes in handy when you are the type of driver that is a little enthusiastic on the road!! All round , I found the chunky design sexy and eye catching!! That's a must in a car!!!
I agree with comment 15 - it's one of the best looking, if not the best looking, hatches around.
I have owned mine for around a year now, and I have managed to drive it as smoothly as in any other car. Changing gears (both up and down) are smooth and undetectable.
The secret is that this car loves throttle - the more you give it, the smoother it gets (obviously, if you press too hard, you'll get too much sudden acceleration, which might seem jerky to some). This means that I can change up very quickly and smoothly as long as I maintain plenty of throttle. It is also quite easy to rev it to the right point for the next gear, if you are not aiming at accelerating.
The trick for changing down is to leave your right foot where it is while pressing the clutch - this blips the revs to exactly the right point so that a smooth gear change can be made.
The only times when I get bumpy gear changes are when I don't have enough throttle.
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