2001 Holden Barina XC.
Bought a 2001 Holden XC Barina. Got it cheap, but it had a few problems.
The radio code had been entered too many times; it went to safe mode. Had no code. When I got the car, I asked Holden for a code. The guy was very good and gave me the code. Asked Holden how to reset it so I can put the code in; they didn't want to know or help me. Went to a different Holden dealer, and wow, those guys were great. Told me how to reset it so the radio will work; all good now.
The owner I got it off had been told it need lots of new parts, as it kept cutting out when stopping. Went to Supercheap Auto, got some carb cleaner, cleaned out ERG valve, and now it's running great; only cost $12.95 to fix.
Also found out the last owner was running E10 petrol; put 95 in it, all good.
Hi, I need to know how to enter the radio code in my daughters 2001 XC. I have the code, just not sure of the entering procedure.
Hi, I have just purchased a 2001 Barina for my daughter to learn to drive in. It has been a disaster. Firstly the car was leaking because the heater was clogged up with leaves. Then I went to start the car and it was turning over but wouldn't fire. The Holden dealer has it for two days and can't find the fault. Now they are saying it's the computer. Has anyone else had this problem, or know what it could be?
Hi all, the problem with the air con in these things is the clutch on the compressor. It's an easy fix if you're handy with a spanner!
1. Buy a new air con clutch on eBay ($75).
2. Take the belt off & the 3 bolts that hold the compressor on the bracket.
3. Remove the air filter box & the cold intake behind the radiator. DO NOT undo the hoses; you'll be able to twist the compressor upwards so you can work on the front of it.
4. Undo the bolt in the centre of the clutch; it usually breaks so you'll need to drill it all the way out.
5. Prise off the top part of the clutch with a stubby flat head (don't lose the 2 or three little spacer washers).
6. The pulley & the clutch are held in with circlips; remove these & put it back together with the new clutch.
7. Use a long stainless rivet to replace the broken bolt.
8. Put it back together & your air con will be as good as new for $75!
Hi, I was just wondering if you got your Barina running right, and if so, what did you do in the end to fix it, as I'm having exactly the same problems?
Hi, I would really love to know what you did to fix this, as I have bought one for my son, and exactly the same happens.
I just purchased an aftermarket EGR valve for my daughter's XC Barina for $79.00 on eBay. All up including post it was $100.00. That sure beat the hell out of $385 plus fitting quoted by Holden. All up it would have been $700.00. It is only scheduled at 40 minutes by VACC. Who is ripping who off??? Had I wanted a genuine GMH on it, it could come out of U.K. for around $200.00 including freight. So let the local dealers suffer with their ripoffs. It is no wonder that the manufacturers are battling to sell cars. Service used to be something to be proud of. NOT ANY MORE.
Oh yes, I'm a 72 year old - educated in the school of hard knocks, and if I can't fit that damn thing in 20 minutes flat, I will give away my petrol head cap.
Cheers to all. Wal.
Well here goes... nothing to lose.
We have an auto XC Barina 5 door hatch with 21,000 km done. It is like new. The problem we have is that after doing 80kph at about 2500 RPM, the car will shudder slightly like a temporary miss/flat spot. It is consistent just after you reach 80+ kph. When I say consistent, I mean you don't know when it will do it, but every few seconds or so that pass, it happens. Have changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs and fuel filter. My wife is worried it will die on her.
I took it to a trusted mechanic who promptly hooked up a diagnostic module to see no error codes. Yesterday we tried the same thing, but whilst driving the car also, so the mechanic could feel the issue. Shortly after taking off doing about 70kph, everything stopped, no life in the car, dash went blank and then came back on. It took a millisecond. Worried more than ever now. I mentioned to the mechanic we also ran it on 95? octane fuel, the one higher than the yellow unleaded, to which he replied "that's what you should be using". Is this correct? The mechanic suggested replacing the fuel pump/module. I don't want to spend money, of course, that doesn't need to be spent starting a snowball effect of down the drain dollars.
Any help or advice is much appreciated, and thank you :)