26th Mar 2016, 11:20
O2 is the chemical symbol for oxygen. The O2 sensor is part of the air-fuel mixture regulation system on your car.
It is located on the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter. It looks similar to a spark plug. You need to remove the engine top cover to access it.
Be warned that the sensor will be very hot to touch until the engine cools down.
17th May 2016, 12:46
My girlfriend has an 04 Barina XC. Bought second hand with 150000 km. Pretty solid so far until the throttle would randomly be completely unresponsive. We have had a new throttle body and pedal assembly put in and neither have made a difference. Sometimes it will go for two hours; other times it cuts out 4 times going around the block. All instruments and engine stay on; the throttle just does nothing. Turning it on and off fixes it temporarily. It doesn't seem to matter what temperature or what it is. Alternates between engine light and service light depending on its mood. The codes pulled from it relate to throttle or something in there. Have also been told the cat might be busted, but I'm not sure about that. Maybe the O2 sensor. I saw here something about the car being in an auto mode for the first two minutes until it reads from the sensor, so maybe that's the next option...
21st May 2016, 03:49
I suggest getting the fuel pressure checked.
After that, the various sensors become suspects, along with the ECU itself, or possibly an intermittent electrical connection.
17th Aug 2016, 09:11
My daughter has a 2001 Barina, we have had intermittent limp mode and spanner/engine lights on for weeks. This seems to be worse when it is very cold, and sometimes it dies completely. Rough idling/shaking and loss of acceleration. Took it to a local Holden dealer for diagnostic tests and they said it needed a new computer. $1100.00. This has not worked, we have the same problem. Tried spark plugs, then coil pack, no change. Diagnostic still says cylinder misfire fault.
Seems to be a lot of this type of problem with these cars. Put me off Holdens for life. What has worked for anyone else?
25th Aug 2016, 09:08
Hi mate, could you explain how to do this in a bit more detail? Having this issue and being quoted 1000$ to replace/repair the computer.
26th Aug 2016, 10:14
Hi. Could you please tell me how do you exit off Safe on the display? Because I've tried many ways, but cannot get it.
8th Sep 2016, 04:37
What did you use to open the black casing for the fuel injectors? And when this is opened, do I need a special tool to remove the fuel injectors?
1st Apr 2017, 16:18
My wife is the first (and only) owner of a Barina 2005 XC. 12 years with 40,000 km. Worked like a Swiss watch until the yellow light started to come on with all problems described in many previous comments: intermittent loss of power, sudden complete loss of power, does not start even with jumpers and/or new battery, etc.
We did put in a new battery and spark plugs, checked many other components, but the problem persists. I've lost five full days on this. Everybody (service guys) gives different (costly) suggestions: fuel pump, coil pack, ECU, EGR valve, etc., etc.
Don't go to Holden service! Everything is super overpriced and they have no clue.
Solution: Replace relay No.10, purple colour, (for the fuel pump).
To be on the safe side I replaced also the engine relay, purple colour (same as the one for the fuel pump, placed next to it).
Relay costs $14.95 from Narva, P/N 68021BL (2 pcs = $ 30).
Problem solved! The car runs like Swiss watch again!
28th Jun 2017, 00:34
Hi, thank you for the information. I will be getting my mechanic to do the relay and engine relay; I really hope mine will be running like yours this week again... thank you.
16th Jul 2017, 02:50
Hi. I had the problem; it has turned out to be an easy fix for me. Just put the brake on and turn the key and depress the lock on the trans; starts every time now, and had the reset done on the car with the spanner and it all runs fine. Also remove the centre console and clean the cable that has had a lot of sticky stuff on it, and keeps the car from going into the gears smoothly, which can put the car in safe mode or no power. Apparently if you spill something in the trans, it gets all gummed up and needs some WD40 to clean it off and get it moving properly. You can test it by watching it move when you put your foot on brake and ignition on and off without turning the engine on.
21st Aug 2017, 11:13
Every 5000km, pour in Liqui Moly fuel cleaner. The fuel system over time becomes dirty etc and the sensors become too touchy. I put in this cleaner and ran my car for 20 minutes and slowly it improved. These cars are made in Europe where they are serviced every 5000 km regardless of condition. Unlike here in Australia where our cars are lucky to see 20000 km services. This Moly is made in Europe and solely used on these cars.
2nd Sep 2017, 07:37
Hi everyone, the Liqui moly man again. Looking at everyone's electrical problems, might I suggest using INOX spray on ALL electrical connections that you can find and spray INOX. It wouldn't hurt and it improves connections (contacts, relays, dash cluster etc). INOX is available at most auto stores and some service stations. One day when we had a flooded road, my car began coughing etc, but I was lucky to drive up a side road gravel heap, where I sprayed my can of INOX all over my engine, wires and dizzy with it and continued on; except for some water getting into the exhaust, my engine continued on through the flooded road. So use INOX, it lasts a lot longer than WD40 does (it's H.D. stuff).
6th Sep 2017, 10:15
I found comparing my old Rodeo EFI connections to my XC Barina, I can see that the old Rodeo had electrical grease in its EFI connections, but my Barina didn't. So I began spraying INOX into connections everywhere there was one, and suddenly the Barina slowly came good. Hope this helps others with electrical problems. INOX also improves conductivity in connections at high temperatures. It's a cheap solution (but perhaps use some electrical grease instead).