I have a 2003 Odyssey EX. It doesn't have a problem with the sliding doors not functioning. However, the door ajar warning sound started to come on intermittently, and would stay on for some time. This was very annoying as you can imagine, and I was about to go to the dealer for repair. I usually check the Internet before having any work done (car or otherwise), and I was fortunate to find this site and the now famous "Fuse 13" solution. I tried it and the problem completely went away! Apparently this solution works for Odysseys of different years and for most (if not all) problems associated with the sliding doors. Bless the submitter of this solution!
I have a 1999 Honda Odyssey. The #13 fuse trick worked for me, I removed it and replaced it after 60 seconds. The door now works, I have no idea why, but I am so happy. Thanks for the info.
Is there a fuse to fix the transmissions on these vehicles too? I bought a used 2000 Odyssey with 50K miles in 2002 with a salvage title. It has worked great for the past several years except for the typical door issues that everyone has mentioned. My problem however is the transmission. My vehicle now has 90K and has recently developed some real hard shifting issues between 1st and 2nd gear. It is also slipping (torque converter) between the shifts. I called up the dealer, and because this vehicle was in an accident and now has a salvage title, honda will not stand behind fixing the transmission issues. I've called Honda Corp and they told me the same thing. They simple hide behind that fact that this vehicle was a salvage and that they will not uphold the warranty. I questioned them on the fact that if I had purchased the vehicle with the corrections already performed, I would be paying for it myself with no question, but because I purchased this vehicle with an inherent flaw from the manufacturer... they should be responsible for the fix. They didn't see my point, and I'm now out $4000. I love Hondas, but you can be sure this is the last one I will ever own. Oh yeah, thanks for the #13 fuse secret.
Just spent $320.00 to fix passenger sliding door, for a door lock motor. Today the left side door had the same problem, did the old fuse 13 thing and just can't believe it worked!!
You think Honda would send out some kind of recall letter or at least advise owners of this solution.
Has anyone had problems with the door alarm chiming/buzzing when driving over bumps or going around curves? I've had my 2004 Odyssey into the dealer for this a few times before the warranty expired, they made adjustments to the sliding doors, but never fixed the problem. Now being told, out of warranty, so I have to pay to have a diagnosis done...
For later Odyssey owners, I have a 2004 EX-L w/sliders. Drivers side wasnt closing all the way and we had resorted to manually closing it. Really made me mad the way that warning buzzer would go off when I tried closing electrically. Cleaned/lubed tracks, etc.. Was about to call dealer to fix and wanted some potential ammo about a recall. Found you guys and the fuse thing. The fuse in later models is in the engine bay on the passenger side. 30A fuse in the main box. Tried the trick and it worked 100%. I tried the slider 10x before my wife came out and asked why I kept saying "no freaking way" to the minivan. She chimed in when she saw the door working. Excellent trick- THANK YOU!!!
I will definitely try out the fuse trick on my 2004 Odyssey (when I get it back from the body shop!!)
My 2004 Midnight Blue Odyssey has the peeling paint problem that Honda finally issued a service bulletin to fix. The body shop has had my van for 4 weeks now (Honda was dragging their feet cause it was much more than the original bulletin covered). They have to re-paint everything but the front doors.
I can't wait to get the van back to try the fuse trick!
Left sliding door would close and partially release.
Door open warning beep and light coming on and off.
Fuse 13 did not work until I pulled it, when the door was completely closed, just before it partially released.
Door is now properly closed, but I am scared to use it.
I wish there was an easy fix for the manual doors. We just had one of the doors fall completely off the track of 02 EX. Needed to replace the track, center roller and associated parts. We complained to the dealer numerous times before it went off warranty they found nothing. Once it did..Voila..they figured it needed to be replaced. Now the drivers side door is doing the same thing. The door sticks and won't close without some gentle maneuvering. Needless to say the dealer is not returning calls or emails about the issue. Looks like we're only going to use one door.
Thanks goodness for Google and the original poster for fuse #13 remedy. Wife and daughter tried to open door on 2000 Odyssey and it just died. Door would not close properly and indicator stayed on. Thought that this meant expensive dealer trip. But did a quick search and tried this fix. As posted, fuse box is located on passenger side (7.5) amps. Used pliers to take out for 30 seconds and put back in and all was well.
OK, so I've been driving with a "busted" door for a year on my 2000 Honda Odyssey, after my kids broke it fighting over who gets to ride in the front seat (one kid locking while one kid was trying to open the sliding door). I will definitely try the fuse, as soon as I figure out why my van just quit working tonight.
Any suggestions? We had been out, all systems working fine. When we went back out to leave again, my son happened to be using the electric window lever as I was trying to start the car. (A fluke that it happened at the same time.) Nothing. The car had an extremely brief starting noise, then nothing. No click, no lights, except for the door indicator lights. After waiting, we got more dash board lights, but no starting. The battery is fine. All fuses look fine. The longer we wait between attempts to start the car, we get a little more noise in the area of the fuses under the hood. It is something electrical, possibly a relay.
We tried disconnecting the battery. When reconnected, we got more electrical activity - interior lights came on (previously would not) etc. Is there any merit in leaving the battery disconnected for longer?
We would appreciate any advice. Thanks.
RE: Aug 22, 2008 entry.
We finally had to tow the car. Turned out the battery was bad, even though it indicated it was OK. One cell was bad, so the car was not getting enough current.
The good news is, my side door that I had been driving with "broken" for the last year is fixed. I guess having the battery disconnected fixed that problem.