2000 Honda Odyssey EX from North America - Comments

Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-105, 106-120, 121-135, 136-150, 151-165, 166-180, 181-195, 196-201

16th Jul 2008, 08:42

Another fuse 13 success story. Thank you many times over for that tip. My boys were goofing off when I went back into the house to get another load of stuff for the trip and they opened / closed the door one too many times in quick succession. Resetting the fuse did the trick. Money saved and a happy mom.

On an unrelated note, the transmission in our 2000 Odyssey has been replaced three times, once by the previous owner, once under our ownership with what the dealer told us was a "rebuilt transmission", and then a final time with a new transmission. Works fine now, and luckily it was still under warranty.

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17th Jul 2008, 14:56

I wish there was an easy fix for the manual doors. We just had one of the doors fall completely off the track of 02 EX. Needed to replace the track, center roller and associated parts. We complained to the dealer numerous times before it went off warranty they found nothing. Once it did..Voila..they figured it needed to be replaced. Now the drivers side door is doing the same thing. The door sticks and won't close without some gentle maneuvering. Needless to say the dealer is not returning calls or emails about the issue. Looks like we're only going to use one door.

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10th Aug 2008, 15:46

Thanks goodness for Google and the original poster for fuse #13 remedy. Wife and daughter tried to open door on 2000 Odyssey and it just died. Door would not close properly and indicator stayed on. Thought that this meant expensive dealer trip. But did a quick search and tried this fix. As posted, fuse box is located on passenger side (7.5) amps. Used pliers to take out for 30 seconds and put back in and all was well.

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22nd Aug 2008, 22:11

OK, so I've been driving with a "busted" door for a year on my 2000 Honda Odyssey, after my kids broke it fighting over who gets to ride in the front seat (one kid locking while one kid was trying to open the sliding door). I will definitely try the fuse, as soon as I figure out why my van just quit working tonight.

Any suggestions? We had been out, all systems working fine. When we went back out to leave again, my son happened to be using the electric window lever as I was trying to start the car. (A fluke that it happened at the same time.) Nothing. The car had an extremely brief starting noise, then nothing. No click, no lights, except for the door indicator lights. After waiting, we got more dash board lights, but no starting. The battery is fine. All fuses look fine. The longer we wait between attempts to start the car, we get a little more noise in the area of the fuses under the hood. It is something electrical, possibly a relay.

We tried disconnecting the battery. When reconnected, we got more electrical activity - interior lights came on (previously would not) etc. Is there any merit in leaving the battery disconnected for longer?

We would appreciate any advice. Thanks.

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13th Sep 2008, 14:22

I have a 2005 Touring Odyssey. My Left side door (drivers side) would close but the rear latch (towards the back of the car) on the door was not holding the door shut. The door alarm would sound, and sometimes the door open indicator on the dash would light up. I noticed the door would close tightly (The body trim was not lined up) the door was depressed about ¼ of an inch. Within a few seconds of closing the door, the cable that closes the door would relax and the door (towards the rear of the car) would open about ¼ of an inch. I tried the Fuse 13 remedy several times. No luck, I was ready to take the door apart thinking something had jammed the gears on the closing latch.

I could not stop thinking it was electrical so decided to pull the main left door fuse (40 amp under the hood) and fuse 13 at the same time for the recommended 30 seconds. The fuse in later models is in the engine bay on the passenger side. 40A fuse in the small fuse box just above the main box, check your owners manual.

After completing this step, the touring model warning, popped up in bright yellow lights telling me the left door had a problem, duh. “CHECK LEFT SLIDING DOOR” was the official warning I considered this progress. I walk thought the process of turning the door switch off, manually opening and closing the door. I flipped the door switch on and the pressed the door open then door close switch. I notice that the door was no longer closing tightly it was perfectly aligned with the body. I decided a test drive was in order, as soon as I put the car in gear the door open alarm went off. I flipped the main door switch to off to silence the alarm, and drove around the block, stopped to talk to a neighbor, turned the car off for a few minutes. Hopped back in flipped the door switch open and closed; put the car in gear and the alarm did not go off. It appears this has fixed the issue; hopefully it will help someone else.

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4th Oct 2008, 14:25

RE: Aug 22, 2008 entry.

We finally had to tow the car. Turned out the battery was bad, even though it indicated it was OK. One cell was bad, so the car was not getting enough current.

The good news is, my side door that I had been driving with "broken" for the last year is fixed. I guess having the battery disconnected fixed that problem.

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9th Nov 2008, 18:41

I have a 2000 Honda Odyssey Minivan. My problem is the the passenger side sliding door. When we lock the doors, the passenger sliding door motor or something inside the door will buzz loud - almost like gears grinding. I tried to take the door apart but was unsuccessful. Short of taking the car into the dealer, does anybody have any advice on what this noise is or how to fix this problem. Tony.

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11th Dec 2008, 10:32

Both doors on my 2001 Odyssey stopped working suddenly about two years ago. The dealership told me it was a ground fault and they had to replace the ground wires in each door with heavier ones. This cost me almost $500.

Yesterday my 8 year old tried repeatedly to open a frozen slider and it died. Found this thread and did the fuse #13 fix. I am in Canada and someone had previously posted that they pulled fuse #12 and thought that was different because theirs was a Canadian model; this was not the case for me. Wish I'd found this 2 years ago.

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14th Dec 2008, 19:59

I want to thank everyone for the helpful advice. My driver side sliding door did give out in extremely cold weather. I tried the #13 trick and "yes" it worked on my 2001 Odyssey.

At this time of the year and in this economy, I am very grateful. I too was thrown a ball park of $750-$1,000 to fix the door. $3 for the 7.5 amp fuse at the local parts store was much better.

Many blessings!

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17th Dec 2008, 17:27

Thanks all for the fuse #13 solution - it did the trick! Should have consulted this forum last week when this happened to us (again). Fortunately we had the driver side power door still working, but entering and exiting on this side was not the safest thing to do.

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24th Dec 2008, 06:21

YES YES YES! This is awesome. #13 solution rules.

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13th Jan 2009, 16:26

Incredible, the fuse 13 trick worked for me and save lots of dollars. Thank you Jesus!

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14th Jan 2009, 16:17

Thank you for the fuse tip, especially the fuse #13 technique.

I had left the lights on inadvertently and the battery died. My daughter had tried to open the passenger side sliding door so it was slightly open. After manually opening and shutting and replacing the sliding door fuse (as detailed in the user manual) in the kick box fuse box on passenger side, I was able to get the door to work, but only the passenger side.

It wasn't until I reset fuse #13, when the driver side sliding door worked.

Thanks so much!!!

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18th Jan 2009, 14:25

One more satisfied "Fuse 13" customer here!!

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20th Jan 2009, 16:16

I don't have an owners manual. Could someone tell me which is fuse 13?

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