Fix for inoperable electric sliding door on 1999 Honda Odyssey:
I had a problem with the door not working at all on my '99. We took it to the shop and the locking mechanism was replaced ($200+). We had to take it in 2 more times and they cleaned the contacts, and gave us some more mumbo jumbo.
As of late the door stopped working again and I knew there was a better solution than taking it back to the dealer. I got this tip from an anonymous friend. He said to pull the passenger side fuse for 30 seconds. I found that the door in question had to be closed and it worked like a champ.
1. The van was not running
2. The door was closed
3. Make sure the lower track below the door is free of trash, etc.
3. Pull fuse 13 for 30 seconds and replace.
The passenger side fuse box is located at foot level on the passenger side below the dashboard. The right side of the floormat if you were sitting in the passenger seat. Mine has a plastic flap that stays open all the time. It has a cheap plastic latch on it that never stays latched. The flap has the fuse diagram listed on it and the fuse box also the the fuse numbers listed on it. The diagram lists fuse 13 as 'clock backup'. Yea right!
The door became immediately operational. The friend said that the lower track below the door being blocked can cause the door to trip and stop functioning.
Woohoo, saved my self a trip to the Honda dealer and probably $200.
2001 Odyssey has been to the shop 6 times (the first was about a week before the warranty runs out) because my manual doors were sticking. The first 2 times they lubricated everything. The 3rd they replaced the door seals and center roller ($500).
The door hasn't closed flush since. I picked the car up and they said the door was "perfect". Lets just say that when I got the car home (and in the light), it was much less than perfect.
Okay, here goes; YOU WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO FIX THE DOORS!!! Not completely anyways. I worked in Shelburne Ontario Canada for a while at the plant that makes the subassembly for these. The problem is basically due to incompetence at the management level. I actually had a "Group Leader" tell me to "Get the F#%&$ out of here" after explaining that I wasn't trained to do maintenance on one of the robots!!! This is normal here. I'm not saying this to "get back" etc, It's just fact.
The employees really do try, but are overworked and undertrained and often bullied. For instance this problem:
They are required to inspect the tracks for burrs as once the vehicle is built it can't be fixed!!! Usually a new employee can check about 3, then trying to keep up cannot physically check anymore!!! They also screw up the sensor mount for the same reason. Again, I stress, THEY DON'T MEAN TO!!! This plant was designed for 350 units per week and in 2000 when I was there they were up to 650 shooting for 800!!! With equipment breakdowns and Honda fining them for "Quality issues".
Unfortunately, the consumer pays for this. I actually like this vehicle, but would not buy one as I've seen the conditions they're built under and wouldn't trust my 3 daughter's lives to one because of it.
The above makes interesting reading! We have a 1999 Odyssey and are very pleased with it on the whole. We had a door problem once - in winter of course, where we experience very cold weather - but not since. However, we have had recurring break noise problems - rear - which just don't want to go away. The rotors/drums have been skimmed and even replaced - still noisy when braking fairly gently as the vehicle comes to a stop.
A couple of other comments. A solenoid is not a motor, but an electric 'switch'. We found turning the buzzer off at the panel helped when we had the door problem too. And it took many visits to finally get that 'engine' light to stay off until required. We bought extended warranty after several visits to the dealer, and would recommend it highly.
The Odyssey is definitely a classy vehicle, and a dream to drive. (We previously had a disaster of a 1998 Windstar - never again!)
Bought the Odyssey 2000EX in 2001 and the past two Decembers, when the weather turned cold, the passenger sliding door locked up. First frost this morning and, sure enough, a dead door for the third time. The vehicle is now off warranty and so now it's our responsibility. Let me know if there is any class action activity going on, because there certainly appears to be grounds. Email email@example.com.
I have a 2000 EX for about four years. Never had many problems except with two recalls: sliding door and dashboard light. That was until now. The driver's auto side sliding door was having problems of sounding the buzzer while driving occasionally. Recently, there was a freezing rain, and the door was frozen, trying to open it failed, so did the other door. However, when the ice melted, the right door worked fine, but the left door went dead, and the "sliding door" light at the dash board came on, which dictates a visit to the dealer. I was told the total repair bill will be $85 (for diagnosis) and $780 plus tax. The dealer said a Junction switch need to be replaced for both sides, I balked at the cost, he told me that he will try to see if Honda can cover the cost although it's out of warranty on time (4 years) but not on mileage (35k miles). It could be because many customers were having the same problem, later he told me that Honda will cover it. Lucky for me. However, I will have a non functional door for three weeks.
'99 Odyssey - 3 Transmissions Later
Haven't even finished paying off the loan and we're working on our 3rd Tranny! How deflating. I was wondering if I am covered under the lemon law. If so how do I go about it?
Evidently the bearings keep wearing on the driver side, resulting not only in worn bearings, but a break in the seal. I had this exact part replaced in August of 2002. It seems like a two year problem. I don't know what will happen when the warranty expires.
Earlier, an individual mentioned the problem of the door sliding smoothly, but not actually "pulling in" or latching. One door on my van is intermittent, sometimes it works, other times not. The other one is fine. A push on the edge of the bad door will shove it in.
I have cleaned and oiled the track, but cannot figure out, by looking, just exactly what mechanically is taking place with that final little "latch action." I see that side of the door has a hinge with a spring on it, and some nuts, but I am reluctant to start tinkering.
It seems that the door motor is fine and reliable, but whatever "pulls in" the door at the end is not adjusted or working properly in some way. It does not seem like a motor problem to me, but does anyone have an answer. Thanks.