Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-96
STOP!!! ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!!! DO NOT REPLACE YOUR CATALYTIC CONVERTER. HONDA IS RAKING US OVER THE COALS.
Here's my story: First let me say our first minivan was a 91 Toyota Previa. I donated it 2 and half years ago with 190,000 miles on it. I hollowed it out and used it as cargo van for work and home purposes. I held it for 16 years but the bulk of the mileage came within the first ten. I took the collision off and insured my teenagers on it. Absolutely great van. In the 2000 era Toyota made a big mistake and made the Siena too small thus pushing me to look at the Odyssey which had much more interior space. And that's where the problems began.
I am glad I purchased the extended warranty. The first problem was with the retractable side doors which got fixed and knock on wood never had another problem in 7 years. I kept up with all schedule maintenance and at 79,000 miles the first tranny went (under warranty). 40,000 miles later the second tranny goes. It was now out of warranty so I haggle with Honda America and they give me the tranny and I paid labor(about $450). 20,000 miles later, this past December, the CEL comes on again, take it to my Honda dealership expecting them to say another tranny is needed. No, he said it's the next most expensive item the catalytic converter which will cost about $900 to fix. He also said in Maryland the Emissions Inspection station will not even hook the car up if the check engine light is on. So I had them reset the light to see how long it would take for it to come back on. It took about 2 weeks and then we noticed it would go off after we filled the tank up with gas and then it would go off and on intermittently. My Emissions notice came in was due in June. The last two tanks I filled up with premium and filled up one more time before I got the Emissions test done yesterday. CEL had been off for about 3 weeks so I took it yesterday and what do you know - IT PASSED!!!!!!
I hope to get at least 2-4 years out of it as my daughter turns 16 next month. Then I'll turn it in to a cargo van and donate down the road.
Advice: BUY TOYOTAS AND DON'T REPLACE YOUR CC JUST BECAUSE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON.
By the way, I love my new Lexus Rx400H which we purchased for my wife.
I have a 1999 Honda Odyssey, 150,000 miles. I took it for an emissions test, which it did pass, but within 5 miles after the inspection the van was undrivable. Servicing found we needed to replace a coil pack for one of the cylinders.
Anyone else have problem after an emissions test?
OK, my car is at the dealership with the same problem. Check engine light.
2 years ago I had the same problem, and had a local mechanic do the massive cleaning of the carbon build up and change the valve. This time my problem is slightly different. My car is also running rough. Usually not much power at under 2000 RPM (speed does not matter). Almost appears light low fuel pressure or transmission skipping, but that is not the case. Codes say 5 cylinder are giving faults. Been to local mechanic (who specializes in foreign cars and is very reputable) for 2 days. No luck zeroing in on the right problem. Now at dealer and they cannot figure out. They are keeping it longer.
Car has 159,500 miles. Yes I have changed everything on this as well. Transmission, door handles, door seals. Lots of problems but I got many miles out of it. Lets see what they say. Only in for $115 for diagnostics at Honda, but will not pay them if they cannot figure it out.
Wish I would have seen this site before my last service. My 2000 Odyssey EX CE light came on at 105k miles. Dealer service department said I needed a new CC and some other parts. I spent $2000. Now I think I may have just got a bad tank of gas. I will try to follow up with the dealer/Honda of America.
I have been reading this thread since April 2008 because my 2001 Odyssey LX, 128000 kms, has been experiencing same problem "CEL". I have done changing the air filter, hammering the CC but no improvement. Check engine light comes on and off. Then I changed to a higher grade of fuel from 87 octane to 92 octane. The frequency of CEL occuring becomes less as of this date. Will update later.
$114 was the charge to tell me I have to give them more money. I had to pay that and I regret it now. $1784 was my quote at the dealer to fix my CEL issue. CC needs to be replaced was the verdict. I took the car home of course. After reading this useful hints, I changed the air filter, put two bottles of fuel injector cleaner on the fuel tank and what I think did the trick was something that everybody has failed to mention yet:
The PCV valve. It cost $2.00 and it is purolator # PV1051. My was very clogged with carbon deposits and black gunk. The little metal ball inside will not move when you shake it. The PCV valve is out of sight hidden behind the injectors cover in the back of the engine in the driver side looking from the front of the vehicle. I replaced all that and the CEL went away. You should try that before any more CC replacements.
With the money I saved, I managed to buy the cabin filter $30.00 and I will buy the code reader for future use.
Hondas are great cars. Mine only has 71851 miles. Notice that almost everyone that is having problems is after 80 to 150 thousand miles. That is a loooooot of miles. We humans start having problems at 60. I would not doubt that they recalled the EGR valve because it was clogging the Catalytic Conv. That should have been part of the recall too. May be that is why the Cats are failing later now. I remember when they changed the EGR at the dealer, my car start to drive a lot better and the gas consumption decreased a great deal. Dealers are a rip off and you have to distrust them. Most of them even use after market parts for your car which is no different from you buying them at AutoZone or PepBoys.
Good luck and I hope my experience help you. All of yours did help me a great deal and I appreciate the time you dedicate to warn the rest of us.
I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey EX with 169,000 miles. I have had two transmissions replaced, one EGR valve replaced, the back hutch, and not to mention the the automatic sliding doors repaired several times.
I am now experiencing my Honda running rough. It shuts off when I put it in reverse and tries to stall-out when I am driving in under 10 mph. It just started experiencing this problem. I also drive it in small "mud puddles" lately due to all the rain. I wonder if something is getting wet underneath causing it to shorten-out? I will take the vehicle in have it looked at if the problem continues.
I got to admit whenever I take the Honda in anywhere I am scared to be taken advantage of and charged a false or higher price. I try to research on the internet prior to taking my Honda in for any repairs.
gators8@juno.com.
Has anyone replaced the CC with a free flow high performance unit? I have ordered universal and direct fit Dynomax converters for different hot rods I've had and the result was noticeable just driving away from the muffler shop. Jegs and Summit sell them, and they increase mileage and performance. They're less prone to clogging because there is "less" in them. I have not looked for an Odyssey replacement for my 1999, as that part was just replaced with a factory unit before I "inherited" this vehicle from my father, who spent plenty maintaining the vehicle. Now at 130K the CIL came on today. I will have to check out your suggestions. Car starts and runs great, but it doesn't seem to do as good on gas sometimes, but then the last few fill ups had that goofy gas mix 10% ethanol? or something!
Regarding replacing PVC mentioned, I did that and the CHL is still on after a week for my 20000 ODYSSEY with 110K. Thanks.
I have a 2000 Honda Odyssey LX (no auto sliding door problems). I have 203,000 miles - still original transmission, egr etc.
I have struggled with the CC code. I have replaced the CC with after market CC one time. I bought a code reader so that I could check the code to make sure the only the CC was the problem. I have a friend who is a great mechanic, he said the despite the P0240, both of the O2 sensors are within normal range and consistently tracking as they should. In the past I have just turned off the code to get the inspection. It comes on in a few miles.
I will try the fuel cleaner to clear the code.
I doubt the premium gas does much for the problem. I have worked in refineries for 35 years. Some companies add more detergent to premium grades, but that is basically is the only difference, other than the octane you don't need. Buying the fuel system cleaner probably does more than gas additives. The gasoline fuel distribution system doesn't allow for much variation from one brand to another. We sold gas to almost every brand station out of the same tanks.
The engine light on my 03 Honda Odyssey is still on after 3 bottles of intake manifold cleaner, new plugs, new EGR valve and new electronics ignition coils. The OBDII code reader indicates random misfires on all cylinders. The van is at the dealership as we speak. They are recommending new injectors all around. That's a $1,400 proposition. I know that an injector cleaning solution might be harsh on the injectors but at that price I'm willing to try it. Any other tips?
The CEL just started today. After reading all the comments in this thread, I will try all the potential solutions from this forum and see how it goes
1. Change air filter first
2. Fuel injector cleaner
3. Clean PCV.
My 2000 Odyssey EX has 98k on it. Never had problem before.
Keep my fingers crossed, don't let me run into the transmission problem.
I don't have any solutions, but I can tell you that my 1999 Odyssey will turn over 215,000 miles tomorrow and I've been driving with the CEL on since it hit 130,000 miles. It failed the emissions inspection, so I spent the required money on repairs to get a waiver - twice. I may try the air filter, and banging on the CC with a hammer, but I won't put any major money into it. I can't complain - it's paid for.
2000 ex with 115k miles. After I ordered OEM bolts for the converter and sprayed WD-40 on the old flange for converter, the CHL just went off and I rushed inspection station and passed the test.
Tried new air filter, original plug, new PCV valve few weeks ago with Shell gas.
It is hard to say what is the cause. I also was told the direct fit converter will work unless something else is going on.
Here is an example of what can cause converters to go bad from a Eastern converter tech service.
http://www.villa-automotive.com/ReasonsForaConverterFailure.htm
Good luck.
We're getting ready to sell our 2000 Odyssey, (140,000 miles) having struggled with the CEL since 95,000 miles. Any advice on how to get past this dilemma with potential buyers? Or are we kidding ourselves? Our experience has been more frustrating than expensive, and it is still a great car and runs fine.