2000 Honda Odyssey EX from North America - Comments

My CEL started coming on about 6000 miles ago. I didn't think much of it. We bought the Honda Odyssey used from a car dealer with 99,000 miles on it one year ago. The first winter we had it the sliding door on the passenger side stopped working. I checked the Internet and found that removing fuse 12 for 30 seconds and replacing it fixed the problem. After that lesson I figured that there must be other "problems" built into this thing just to get people to take in their vans for repair. So when the CEL came on I ignored it for awhile. I've removed the battery cable overnight twice now. The CEL stays off for 3-4 weeks then comes back on. I'm not particularly interested in fixing it especially after reading this forum. Seems like the only problem with the light coming on is it won't pass emissions. And removing the battery cable for a few hours fixes that. Until something actually stops this thing from driving, I'm not even going to take it to a mechanic except to get the oil changed.

I agree with your comments. We have a van with 155,000 miles on it and it runs great. Have had problems with the CEL on and off for the past year now. Our mechanic said the code was a bad CC but the car still passed all emissions tests. As long as your van is running fine and not overheating, I think you should just cover the light with a black piece of tape and just forget about it!

My 1999 has 95K miles and check engine light has been on for a couple months now. It ran rough during cold days as if it wants to quit and hesitate to move forward even with accelerator down. After reading this site I am going to do some simple DIY jobs such as changing airfilter, spark plugs, premium gasoline, etc. Be back with the update soon.

I have a Honda Odyssey 2000 EX and the CEL P0420 started coming on last July 08. Dealer could not find anything wrong, but did notice that the oil was low, so he topped it off and the light stayed off for a while. Came back one after a couple of months. I kept driving it. The light went off. Then came back on.

I took it into the dealer again. Again they could not diagnose a problem. Told me to keep track of the oil. The CEL came back. I checked the oil level and needed to put 2 quarts in. Looks like the van is drinking 1Q every 500 miles, but I don't know where it's going. No drips. No smoke (that I can tell).

Dealer now suggests a new engine, maybe a new CC. I now also have a P0740 TCC (when it rains it pours). The van has started jerking. I am on the fence about cutting my losses and buying a new one or trying to get this one fixed. I was hoping I could use it for another 4 years! I am undecided and disappointed.

My Odyssey has 170k miles. I basically really like my car, however there have been several malfunctions mechanically.

Problems with engine light, oxygen sensor and other lights (clock, D drive) auto door locks stick. Dealer can't seem to get these things fixed at a reasonable cost. The electrical system has been a constant problem over the years. Don't mind paying a reasonable cost if they could have fixed the lights... not so.

I just failed my emissions test and codes P120 and P401 showed up. Costing me a new cc $900 with labor plus a cleaning out for $600.

After reading comments, I am going to push for some sort of monetary compensation for these problems.

I have just experienced the same CC problem at 125,000 and have benefited from reading all your input. I'd like to emphasize a point made in the website included in an earlier comment,

http://www.villa-automotive.com/ReasonsForaConverterFailure.htm

The authors assert that the CC going bad is a symptom, not the root problem - if the CC goes bad, it is because one or more of many of the problems you've mentioned (plus a few others) have occurred. This may explain the repeated CC failures.

For what it is worth, my ASE certified mechanic says they have had poor luck with other than OEM CC's in Hondas, and they are not worth trying.

I saw a thread in another forum that mentioned habitual "lightfootedness" as a potential contributor to CC failure - that running at low rpms on a regular basis may reduce the heat of the CC, resulting in a buildup of waste products in the CC. The cure is to superheat the CC and blow out all the gunk. The method proposed on the website sounds unsafe, but another mechanic suggested that occasional heavy acceleration every now and again may prevent the problem (too late for me), or that the CC can be removed, heated with a propane torch, and then blown out, to cure the problem. I may try that.

By the way, lightfootedness has allowed me to get up to 28 mpg in mixed driving with my 2000 Odyssey.

This is further to my earlier text on 14th Sep 2007, 15:26.

I took the Odyssey to FIRESTONE. They charged $100 to read the code and gave me a junk stating that it costs $600 to clear the CEL. The labor costs alone $200!!! They confirmed it's not the transmission.

I took the Odyssey to some NAPA EXPRESS REPAIR for a second opinion. The lady said they need to read the code again (another $80), but when I argued I already paid for the reading at FIRESTONE, the lady said 'if the codes are same then she won't charge, but however, if the codes are different then I need to pay $80. I agreed and she read the codes and confirmed the codes matched with Firestone. Estimate to clear the CEL (EGR cleaning) is $300. I am glad I need pay $300 instead of $600 from FireStone.

Next day the CEL came up again. I took the car to NAPA EXPRESS. The lady said 'If the codes are same, then she gives another shot at EGR cleaning. If the codes are different, I need to pay $80. I had no option but say yes. After 45 minutes, I was swiping my card for $80. She gave a report that states 1. The Fuel Cap not tightened properly (open loop - evaporation) most probably 2. The second solenoid purge valve needs replacement - Estimate $300 with a letter to Honda explaining the problem. I need to check with Honda. That's the first time I went to Honda.

There the same story, it costs me $80 to read the code. Honda said, they should not believe the code reading done by NAPA Express. I negotiated for $60. They read the code and gave me a letter 'that it's just the evaporation - fuel cap issue' there is nothing like Purge valve!!. They reset the CEL. After 7 days it reappeared.

I took the Odyssey to the Dealer. This time, the code is different. It's P0420 - the CC. Estimate - $800!!!. I'm ONLY SURPRISED AT THOSE WHO BUY A HONDA. I know those who didn't undergo this turmoil will keep driving Hondas though. When it comes, it's worse and some unlucky people will have it coming!

I just want to thank everyone for posting their comments on this forum. Your ideas give me hope that there are other options to solving the P0420 catalytic converter code, which has showed up on my 1999 Honda Odyssey at 110,000 miles after just having replaced the transmission, timing belts and spark plugs and having a tune-up and been suffering from door problems.

I've been worried about having to pass the emissions this July, but now I have hope.

My mechanic (who used to work at a Honda dealership) told me that he's put non Honda brand converters in the Odysseys and they have ALWAYS failed and had to be replaced by the $975 (the cost I just got from my dealer today, not including labor) Honda part.

Blessings to you all!

I had a transmission changed in 2006 under the extended warranty. (Honda's version of admitting their problem.) I did have to pay approx. $850 for engine mounts that broke due to the tranny failure.

I have had problems with the driver's rear door on my EX not completely latching closed, and was told it was not a safety issue. I continued to bump the door shut instead of spending $500 on the motor job.- Still not "knocking" Honda, yet.

Jump ahead to October 2008, 22,000 miles since Honda replaced the transmission (26 months), and the second tranny decides to die. But I feel good - kept service documentation, that was twice had tranny serviced and placed external cooler on tranny at Honda's suggestion. What transmission should die at 22,000 miles? American Honda decided not to offer me "GOODWILL" because I was not willing to tell them I will continue to be a loyal customer. I'm not kidding. If I did not kiss the customer service's you-know-what, She would not offer me anything!!!

The Check Engine Light has come on coinciding with poor shifting of the tranny, so I brought the vehicle back in. (Don't forget this was the third tranny now.) GUESS WHAT: Needs tranny work. And to make sure I'm in complete cardiac arrest, $1800 in cat. convert / exhaust / oxygen sensors.

I WAS A LOYAL HONDA CUSTOMER BUT FOUND TOYOTA / NISSAN AND EVEN USA COMPANIES WILL STAND BEHIND THEIR PRODUCTS BETTER THAN HONDA USA CORP.

If I can offer one bit of advise to someone who is doing their research before making a large investment like purchasing an automobile, don't just buy a Honda because you have heard they are the best - Everyone one this thread has the same problems. With the times we live in, and the economic problems facing companies, they should be doing backflips for their customers!!!

New Transmission: $3000

New Emissions Parts: $1800

Third Transmission in 93,000 miles: ????

Not ever having to bow down to Honda again: PRICELESS!!!

I have a 2001 Odyssey that just turned 221,000 miles. All I have done since I've owned it was to add gas and oil and stay on the recommended tune ups. I do a lot of highway driving and this may have helped keep things clean.

Over the past three years (since 150,000 miles) I have repeatedly had my check engine light, maint light and Traction Control lights come on intermittently. Initially I kept bringing it into the Honda dealership. They'd check it but say they couldn't get a reading because they couldn't get the light to come on. Now last week they checked it again and said I had problems with my EGR - (insufficient lift condition) and the CC needs to be replaced. The vehicle still has good pick up and the mileage has not changed in the last several years.

My solution is to keep driving it and forget the light (as I have over the past several months). The indication from the mechanic is that I would experience a loss in power and acceleration if things deteriorate. I'll keep the vehicle for warm weather driving this year and with proper notice to a prospective buyer, sell it this fall. Kelly Blue Book says it still has $5,000 value (?)

Great forum, I have a 00 odyssey EX and have had the CEL and TCS light coming on and off for some time. Van has 155000 but still gets around 24 mpg on hwy. Just had codes cleared yesterday and today wife says CEL is back on, called Dealer and they said to replace CC. I'm going to try some of these solutions first. I run a K&N air filter so I'm gonna check that, need to look back at my documents and see when I replaced the sparkplugs. Have been getting gas from Walmart and Sheetz. Next tank will fill up with Premium from a Brand company and add the fuel additives. Going to try the Hammer routine tonight as well, I do not have $1100 to spend. Got the Van at 75000 and at 113000 Transmission was replaced by dealer Praise the LORD! I had timing belt and water pump etc.. replaced around 105000 and also had to have mounts replaced because of transmission. Overall have been satisfied with van but expected to get more miles with less maintenance. Automatic doors are starting to act up, praying they will last.

We have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 115,000 miles on it. We paid more to own the Honda because we believed we were buying reliability. We have had three transmissions in this vehicle. It has 114,000 miles on it.

With the last transmission replacement (in February 2009), we were told the timing belt and catalytic converter required replacement. Basically, they're maintenance items, so the suggested service was believable. We did not award the work to our dealer out of frustration with the transmission failures. Aamco did the work with a non-Honda catalytic converter.

Now the MIL has a P0420 code indicating the "catalyst system efficiency is below threshold". My friend the mechanic tells me the after market catalytic converter probably does not have the same internal material denseness as the Honda part, so the capacity to clean the exhaust from the engine is reduced, resulting in the code. No damage to the vehicle is likely with the after market catalytic converter in place.

When I called Honda to discuss it, they told me we made the mistake of not using genuine Honda parts. I asked him to consider what three transmissions might say about the quality of genuine Honda parts. He said the company did the replacements free of charge, except for $600 they charged for the last replacement. I reminded him the transmission replacements occurred both before and after the class action litigation regarding the transmission. No reply from the Honda representative.

I am going to try to get this car through the inspection process, then we will have to consider a Sienna or another minivan type. We have three kids and too many events to get to with lots of equipment, so we can't feasibly get into a smaller vehicle.

All that said, I like the van itself. It offers functional interior space. And, the minivan is paid off, so that is good. The lifetime cost of owning this vehicle includes 7-10 days without a car while Honda tries to remedy their errors, $4,000-$5,000 spent on the original car purchase to buy the alleged Honda reliability, and a lot of frustration.

My conclusion is that we will not buy Honda cars and I will make sure other consumers (other families with kids) are aware of our experience so they can avoid the assumption that Honda is a better quality vehicle.

Sincerely - a mother from Carrollton, TX

Nice thread of valuable posts!!

Got 1999 Honda Odyssey with 118k miles.. started getting CEL and TCS with no symptoms of any problem.. same mileage and pickup... drove back with CEL almost 500 miles home.

TCS showed up sometimes on the way but went off after engine restart.

Initial code was.. P0420 (cat below threshold)

After another 1000 miles P0420 and P0410

After another 300 miles only P0410

After another 200 miles only P0420 consistent!!

CEL is coming back on after resetting with 20-30 miles.

Got EGR valve from AZone... but not able to take the mounting bolts off of old EGR. tried liquid wrench, PBblaster etc...

PCV valve replaced no improvement.

Which O2 sensor should I change (P0410-Bank1 sensor1)? and where is it?

The van is running great no problems or driveability issues.

How do you guys manage to get under van? The clearance is so low.

Please suggest.

I too have a 2000 EX model. New transmission at 96K miles another at 124K. Dealer paid for 1st one, split cost for 2nd one. Looking to sell it now with "new Transmission only 2K miles on it"

I have had engine light issue for years now. Dealer said safe to drive since CC failure. Couldn't justify $1000 expense. Have driven 30K miles with light on with no issue even passes California smog no problem. Just need to get light to stay off so I can sell-it. Don't bother trying to address this problem. Just drove Los Angeles to Reno and back at 80mph getting 23 mpg with light on all the way.

I have a 99 Odyssey LX with 86000 miles. I bought it in Seattle two years ago with less than 75K on it. About two weeks after arriving in Houston, the car battery died. I replaced with the battery and threw away the battery warmer. Yes, the car came from Canada and I don't need that warmer in Texas.

Last week, my wife broke the right hand side passenger door handle. I couldn't get one from Autozone so I had to buy a brand new door handle from the Honda Dealer, $115 including tax. Since the child safety lock is on, I couldn't open the door from inside, and since the handle cheap plastic is broken, I couldn't open the door from the outside either. After a whole afternoon of sweat (and few drops of blood) in the garage, the handle is replaced by opening up the door panel from inside. We also noticed the same door handle on the left hand side is starting to pop out.

After the door handle is replaced, the check engine light came on the next day. I took the van to Autozone and got a free code reading, 401, EGR valve. Autozone gave me a quote for $76 (including 8.25% tax) for a new EGR valve with two years warranty. I am holding off on this purchase since the van is running fine, my state inspection is only due next May. I am planning to buy a code reader from Amazon. com for about $50 to reset the code, or may be I should just disconnect the battery to reset and see what happens next, or I just wait until the weather gets cooler to check things out further.

I just paid $550 three months ago to change the timing belt and water pump, $115 on the door handle last week, not in the mood to spend more $ on this elusive EGR valve / system fix.

Thanks for all the posts here, it really helps me to build my own knowledge base and understand the issues better.

HW.