23rd Oct 2008, 17:14

2000 EX with 115k miles. After I ordered OEM bolts for the converter and sprayed WD-40 on the old flange for converter, the CHL just went off and I rushed inspection station and passed the test.

Tried new air filter, original plug, new PCV valve few weeks ago with Shell gas.

It is hard to say what is the cause. I also was told the direct fit converter will work unless something else is going on.

Good luck.

10th Nov 2008, 19:27

We're getting ready to sell our 2000 Odyssey, (140,000 miles) having struggled with the CEL since 95,000 miles. Any advice on how to get past this dilemma with potential buyers? Or are we kidding ourselves? Our experience has been more frustrating than expensive, and it is still a great car and runs fine.

22nd Nov 2008, 09:59

My CEL started coming on about 6000 miles ago. I didn't think much of it. We bought the Honda Odyssey used from a car dealer with 99,000 miles on it one year ago. The first winter we had it the sliding door on the passenger side stopped working. I checked the Internet and found that removing fuse 12 for 30 seconds and replacing it fixed the problem. After that lesson I figured that there must be other "problems" built into this thing just to get people to take in their vans for repair. So when the CEL came on I ignored it for awhile. I've removed the battery cable overnight twice now. The CEL stays off for 3-4 weeks then comes back on. I'm not particularly interested in fixing it especially after reading this forum. Seems like the only problem with the light coming on is it won't pass emissions. And removing the battery cable for a few hours fixes that. Until something actually stops this thing from driving, I'm not even going to take it to a mechanic except to get the oil changed.

13th Dec 2008, 23:28

I agree with your comments. We have a van with 155,000 miles on it and it runs great. Have had problems with the CEL on and off for the past year now. Our mechanic said the code was a bad CC but the car still passed all emissions tests. As long as your van is running fine and not overheating, I think you should just cover the light with a black piece of tape and just forget about it!

14th Jan 2009, 00:13

My 1999 has 95K miles and check engine light has been on for a couple months now. It ran rough during cold days as if it wants to quit and hesitate to move forward even with accelerator down. After reading this site I am going to do some simple DIY jobs such as changing airfilter, spark plugs, premium gasoline, etc. Be back with the update soon.

18th Jan 2009, 22:08

I have a Honda Odyssey 2000 EX and the CEL P0420 started coming on last July 08. Dealer could not find anything wrong, but did notice that the oil was low, so he topped it off and the light stayed off for a while. Came back one after a couple of months. I kept driving it. The light went off. Then came back on.

I took it into the dealer again. Again they could not diagnose a problem. Told me to keep track of the oil. The CEL came back. I checked the oil level and needed to put 2 quarts in. Looks like the van is drinking 1Q every 500 miles, but I don't know where it's going. No drips. No smoke (that I can tell).

Dealer now suggests a new engine, maybe a new CC. I now also have a P0740 TCC (when it rains it pours). The van has started jerking. I am on the fence about cutting my losses and buying a new one or trying to get this one fixed. I was hoping I could use it for another 4 years! I am undecided and disappointed.

22nd Jan 2009, 18:50

My Odyssey has 170k miles. I basically really like my car, however there have been several malfunctions mechanically.

Problems with engine light, oxygen sensor and other lights (clock, D drive) auto door locks stick. Dealer can't seem to get these things fixed at a reasonable cost. The electrical system has been a constant problem over the years. Don't mind paying a reasonable cost if they could have fixed the lights... not so.

I just failed my emissions test and codes P120 and P401 showed up. Costing me a new cc $900 with labor plus a cleaning out for $600.

After reading comments, I am going to push for some sort of monetary compensation for these problems.

23rd Jan 2009, 20:40

I have just experienced the same CC problem at 125,000 and have benefited from reading all your input.

For what it is worth, my ASE certified mechanic says they have had poor luck with other than OEM CC's in Hondas, and they are not worth trying.

I saw a thread in another forum that mentioned habitual "lightfootedness" as a potential contributor to CC failure - that running at low RPM on a regular basis may reduce the heat of the CC, resulting in a buildup of waste products in the CC. The cure is to superheat the CC and blow out all the gunk. One mechanic suggested that occasional heavy acceleration every now and again may prevent the problem (too late for me), or that the CC can be removed, heated with a propane torch, and then blown out, to cure the problem. I may try that.

By the way, lightfootedness has allowed me to get up to 28 MPG in mixed driving with my 2000 Odyssey.

30th Jan 2009, 13:31

This is further to my earlier text on 14th Sep 2007, 15:26.

I took the Odyssey to FIRESTONE. They charged $100 to read the code and gave me a junk stating that it costs $600 to clear the CEL. The labor costs alone $200!!! They confirmed it's not the transmission.

I took the Odyssey to some NAPA EXPRESS REPAIR for a second opinion. The lady said they need to read the code again (another $80), but when I argued I already paid for the reading at FIRESTONE, the lady said 'if the codes are same then she won't charge, but however, if the codes are different then I need to pay $80. I agreed and she read the codes and confirmed the codes matched with Firestone. Estimate to clear the CEL (EGR cleaning) is $300. I am glad I need pay $300 instead of $600 from FireStone.

Next day the CEL came up again. I took the car to NAPA EXPRESS. The lady said 'If the codes are same, then she gives another shot at EGR cleaning. If the codes are different, I need to pay $80. I had no option but say yes. After 45 minutes, I was swiping my card for $80. She gave a report that states 1. The Fuel Cap not tightened properly (open loop - evaporation) most probably 2. The second solenoid purge valve needs replacement - Estimate $300 with a letter to Honda explaining the problem. I need to check with Honda. That's the first time I went to Honda.

There the same story, it costs me $80 to read the code. Honda said, they should not believe the code reading done by NAPA Express. I negotiated for $60. They read the code and gave me a letter 'that it's just the evaporation - fuel cap issue' there is nothing like Purge valve!!. They reset the CEL. After 7 days it reappeared.

I took the Odyssey to the Dealer. This time, the code is different. It's P0420 - the CC. Estimate - $800!!!. I'm ONLY SURPRISED AT THOSE WHO BUY A HONDA. I know those who didn't undergo this turmoil will keep driving Hondas though. When it comes, it's worse and some unlucky people will have it coming!