I understand and agree with the frustration. I have a 2005 Mazda 6 with 47,000 miles and have an extended warranty via Honda Care. The heck I have gone through in the last 4 months on this car and the transmission problems and the warranty company is ridiculous! I have had the same issue and taken it to the dealership over 4 times for the same issue and has not been fixed. WTH?
I had to coax Betsy back home this eve, since the warranty company would not rent me a car until it was fully diagnosed, and since they close at 6 and could only tell me that it could be a speed sensor or in the wiring, and needed further looking into.
It's a no win situation with not many Mazda dealerships around, and all 3 are at least 20 miles from me. Now, I have to either try to drive it back in the morning if drivable, or as far as I can, then roadside assistance. They only cover tow up to $100. Fix or replace, because I have had it! My take is that they are messing with me on this, knowing my warranty runs out next year and not taking care of the problem that they are liable for.
I have a 2003 Mazda 6 with 124K on the odo. I first noticed a transmission problem in a passing situation on a 700 mile trip to New York. I floored the accelerator, but the car did not downshift. I kept it floored until I had cleared the traffic and let off the throttle. The AT and TCS lights both came on and the car virtually died. It was still running, but the engine was loping and there was clearly something wrong. I put it in park and turned off the engine. I restarted the engine and it acted as if nothing had happened.
Since then, the problem has occurred two more times (in a couple of weeks). I have tried to observe what might be happening. It appears that it may be that the torque converter is not coming out of lock up mode or, maybe a valve is sticking, causing it to not downshift or to stick in one gear. Then when I stop, it appears that the computer is trying to keep the engine running, even though something is stuck where it is not supposed to be. Maybe that's the reason for the gallop. It's going to the shop tomorrow so, I will post an update.
I have an 05 Mazda 6 Wagon, automatic trans (with an extended warranty!). I love my car, but I'm experiencing the same transmission problems as many others mentioned. The trans slips when I'm highway driving, and it hard-shifts when driving at slower speeds. The dealership made me pay $110 for a computer reset on the trans before they will look at it mechanically. And it made the problem way worse.
My question is this: Of those people who had their trans replaced, did this problem arise again on the new trans?
I have an 05 Mazda 6S. The battery came out defective at 42,000 miles. Dealer made me pay a prorated amount on the battery. Now the car has 60,000 miles. My autostick is not working. If I shift to autostick, it still registers it at automatic. Anyone experiencing this? How do I fix it?
Interesting to see that most of the problems listed here were with the V6. (BTW this is a Ford engine/trans).
I have a 2004 Mazda6i 2.3L 5MT (I bought it used with 90,000 km) and no major issues (now it has almost 190,000 km).
I've only changed the rotors and brake pads (normal wear after driving 100,000 km right?) and I also had to replace the gas cap (looks like the rubber seal was dry and the sensor was detecting a vapour leak, which caused the check engine to turn on)
I have a 2006 Mazda6 with 65000 miles. It is an automatic 4 cylinder. I really have had no problem with it till this week. Now when I start to decelerate at around 30 to 20 miles an hour, I have this banging noise that does not stop till
I step on the brake. Anyone else with this problem? Any answers?
Have the front suspension and brakes checked.
Mazda 6 2004. First car I bought when I was 18, worst car ever! Had the transmission replaced 3 times, and am still having issues with it.
2004 Mazda 6 6 cylinder uses oil, doesn't smoke or leak, so where is the oil going? I am going to check the valve stem seal and the oil drain backs and PVC valve I will let you know what I find. When the oil gets low, the cam chain tensioner will let the chain go slack and will move the timing gears and cause a cam sensor code. The engine will run but will be erratic jump and buck. The cams must be put back in time.
My 2004 Mazda 6 is the most evil car I have ever owned. I bought it outright off the lot.
I fixed the clutch at 15,000 miles.
I paid 500 to get the driver's side door fixed.
I have put 5 starters in it.
I didn't have to replace the tranny, JUST THE ENGINE at 80000 miles, at a cost of 5500.
It also leaks oil. I'm told they do not make the seal, so they just rigged it. Quarts of oil disappear. I mean it has to go somewhere.
Now it's the throttle body. I was really really hoping I just had to put in another starter. No such luck, because the throttle body is 600.
I have never HATED a car so much. My car was built Friday evening/Monday morning and has caused me nothing but heartache. I actually would feel guilty selling it to someone else.
I own a Mazda 6 2006 2.0L 5 speed auto. Had problems with the exhaust, aircon compressor, catalytic converter, starter motor... after 2 years, and were all replaced during the warranty.
Last week, replaced the throttle body, and yesterday the aircon compressor for the second time.
Now, the car has excessive engine braking after tapping the accelerator and letting go gently. Can anyone help?
YES! I rented a 2006 Mazda6 and loved it. It was heavy and really nice. However, when I bought my 2005 Mazda6 about 6 months used, it had that jerking problem from the start. I am a young, single female, so when I took it to the dealer they looked at me like I was nuts. Then they kept it overnight, test drove it, and said nothing was wrong with it. I'm sorry, but there is no way that it is OK to jerk so noticeably when shifting gears. Just make sure you're not holding hot coffee. ;)
Just tonight I had an issue with the brakes or calipers. Not sure, but whatever it is, the engine would rev, the brake pedal was resistant when I would try to stop, and then there was a burning smell when I finally got stopped. I'm hoping it is an easy fix. My advice... NEVER BUY ANOTHER MAZDA.
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