1992 Mazda B2600 Reviews - Page 4 of 5

1992 Mazda B2600 i 4X4 Cab Plus 2.6L FI from North America

Year of manufacture1992
First year of ownership1996
Most recent year of ownership2003
Engine and transmission 2.6L FI Manual
Performance marks 6 / 10
Reliability marks 4 / 10
Comfort marks 5 / 10
Dealer Service marks 6 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 7 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
5.6 / 10
Distance when acquired95000 kilometres
Most recent distance200000 kilometres
Previous carSubaru GL

Summary:

Excellent off-road work truck

Faults:

Blown head gasket at 100000 km (the Mitsubishi 2.6 is famous for this).

Replaced pitman and idler arms at 98000km.

Replaced radiator at 120000 km.

Replaced water pump and power steering pump at 180000km.

Replaced fuel sending unit at 130000 km.

Replaced both CV shafts at 175000km.

Frequent exhaust rust outs.

Fuel and temperature gauges failed at 190000km - not fixed yet - likely need to replace entire instrument panel to fix it.

General Comments:

Not a particularly reliable vehicle. Poor ride and control on highways surfaces. Superior performance off-road. Exceptional torque and hill climbing ability in 4 wheel low.

Body was pretty tight, but has begun a rapid rust out in 2002. Rust started at the back end around the tailgate and has emerged around rear wheel wells.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 31st July, 2003

1992 Mazda B2600 4x4 2.6 liter 4 cylinder from North America

Year of manufacture1992
First year of ownership2000
Most recent year of ownership2003
Engine and transmission 2.6 liter 4 cylinder Manual
Performance marks 7 / 10
Reliability marks 10 / 10
Comfort marks 7 / 10
Running Costs (higher is cheaper) 10 / 10
Overall marks (average of all marks)
8.5 / 10
Distance when acquired132000 kilometres
Most recent distance185000 kilometres
Previous carMazda MX5

Summary:

Dependable 4x4 P/U

Faults:

ABS computer was not working when I first got the truck and it isn't now. I wasn't sure at first because I never needed to brake hard enough to test it. I should have tried locking the brakes during the test drive in retrospect. Anyway, sometimes the ABS light comes on and the ABS never kicks in on icy roads when I need it. One time I noticed a pulse from the brakes during light braking which was likely a bad ABS sensor firing the ABS.

The battery failed without warning at 145000kms. One day the truck just refused to turn over. This was the only time the truck ever left me stranded.

The in stitching on driver's side bench seat has started to rip in two places. The piping dries out and cracks causing the seam to give way.

The heater control broke on the dash so turning the dial doesn't move the heater core shut off valve. I tried gluing the broken control (made of brittle plastic) but my repair didn't last long. I can adjust the heat by moving the control lever down near the gas pedal. I will pick up a used one at a wrecker when I get around to it.

I had the cooling system flushed because the temperature gauge used to creep up to the Hot mark. After the flush the heat only goes 80% up. I'm still concerned some day the engine will overheat. I had the thermostat tested by a mechanic and he said it was working properly and recommended leaving it alone.

Replaced the Front Brake Pads at 180000 km. I don't know how long the last pads lasted. I was able to leave the old rotors on without turning them. There are some serious grooves on them, but the brakes still work.

CV Joint Boot ripped and started to leak. I took the truck to a garage to get the boot replaced, but they refused to do the job. Instead they installed a re-manufactured CV shaft. The original equipment costs about 1500 bucks a side!! I was lucky they could source a used one for around $200.

At 150000km I replaced the distributor cap and wires because it started to miss under throttle. There is a slight miss occurring under load again at 185000km. It appears to be a bad connection because the miss seems to go away for a while if I press on the wires at the distributor.

The truck was oil undercoated every year according to the records I got with the truck. I've had it oiled every year I've owned it. There are rust holes starting on the rear end below the tailgate and around the front driver side tire well. There is also a hole starting in the floor below the driver's side.

I replaced the clutch myself at 184000 km. I thought the plates were worn out because the clutch started making a screech noise on engagement. After I got it apart I discovered the pilot bearing had seized and was running on the input shaft. The clutch plates looked perfect. I didn't even need to clean up the flywheel. Installed a $300 clutch kit and put a new seal in the slave cylinder because it was leaking badly. It was nearly impossible to remove the bell housing -- took me almost 6 hours to get it off. There isn't much space to operate under there.

General Comments:

I like the truck. It has been completely dependable for me. I can work on it myself and fix most things that go wrong for very little expense. Insurance is really cheap and it gets decent gas mileage.

It is good on gas and handles like new. It has a firm ride which I like. There are no rattles inside the cab and it pulls pretty well on the highway.

It is a pretty slow vehicle. At stop lights I get beaten by economy cars off the line. It doesn't start pulling hard until about 60km/h. It accelerates best at around 80 - 90 km/h. The top speed I've ever driven it is about 135 km/h. After about 130 km/h it stops accelerating. It cruises best around 120 km/h.

The 4x4 system is top notch in terms of reliability. It has an electronic engagement for locking the hubs which always works. Sometimes the hubs get stuck and won't release. In this case I just stop and rev the engine. This normally does the trick. I find they tend to stick if I accelerate really hard in 4x4 mode. The only downside of the 4x4 is the fact the truck has to be stopped to lock the hubs. It can be moving shifting from 2 high to 4 high and back.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 10th June, 2003

7th Oct 2003, 17:38

Since the original review the truck has developed a few more problems. At 186000km the fuel sending unit started to leak above the tank. Both the main line, return line, and both evaporator lines had rusted through. The fuel sending unit retails for $800 at the dealer. Fortunately, I was able to remove the sending unit from the gas tank and splice in a new section of gas line. The rusty screws attaching the sending unit to the tank needed to be punched off with a brass punch.

Now at 190000kms the water pump has started to leak. I'm trying to source a rebuild kit to repair the pump.

22nd Feb 2007, 10:09

I also had a sending unit problem. It rusted out and as I drove about 30 miles around town, I lost 1/2 tank of gas. The cost for a new one was 500 dollars, but I found one in a junk yard in North Carolina for 50 bucks with the original paint on it yet. My door has rusted out do to a bad repair job, and a new door costs around 500 dollars from Mazda, but I found a 1986 truck behind someone's barn and was able to part it out for 100 bucks, taking thousands of dollars worth of parts, thanks to the fact that Mazda didn't change the Body style from '86 to '93. Overall, I love the truck, 206,000 miles and very few problems whatsoever. Runs like a champ, burns NO oil, and is gonna last me a long time.

3rd Apr 2007, 20:04

I own a 1992B2600 Mazda 4x4 Truck and I Tried starting it and it turns over, but won't start. Is it my computor brain, that is what my machanic told me. Kenny DeMatteis.

7th May 2011, 09:53

I have a 1991 B2600i 4x4. It cranks way too long to start. Once it starts, then it starts easy all day. Then sits over night, and doesn't want to start.

3rd Apr 2013, 18:51

Add a ground wire from the starter to the fire wall. This is a really common problem on these trucks.

Average review marks: 7.6 / 10, based on 16 reviews