Craig: Was it hard to put 2.5 V6 into Lantis? How much time did You needed? I have 323F. No major problems with her, but 1.5l 90hp engine is little boring now, so I would like to do same thing:-)
My partner has a Lantis 'R' spec 94 model. It has just clocked over 100kms and has had a cam belt replaced. It's a great little car and handles fantastic.
The only problem that we are having with the Lantis at the moment is an A.B.S fault. This is causing the brake pedal to shudder and become "solid" at low speeds (leaving the driveway). Has any-one else had a fault like this??
I would like to remove the fuse, however it's all in Japanese and where do you find it!!. Also noted recently is a tapping sound upon cold morning start ups. The car has had a good service history, we were the first NZ owners (x Japan).
Any ideas please forward to firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi My Name is Ron and I have a 97 Mazda Lantis type R for he past 2 years and I must say it is a wonderful car to drive. That power boost you get at 4000 rpm is my favourite feature of this car. After driving my car a few times my friend bought one himself and is in love. He asked if anyone has ever turbo or super charge one of these bad boys. So if any one has please let me know what was done and how does it feel to drive. You can email me at email@example.com.
Won't be the clutch; my bet is the right hand side inner CV joint. The whole shaft comes together with inner and outer CVs. Price is nz$125 for aftermarket kit.
I've never driven this car but heard it's engine compared to Honda Type-R engines... To this end I'm not surprised some of you see more go after 4000rpm... The same holds for the Type-R engines and my (old) Primera eGT's 2.0 I4.
With Honda VTEC engines the drivers refer to this boost after 4000 as the "VTEC Zone" and describe it as their most liked feature of the car... less torquey but more rev-happy and fun.
My Primera did this but without the great effect of the VTEC Zone and its clever valve timing.
It's a nice car it seems... better than 323F in the UK.
I have a 1996 2 Litre V6 manual. It has only done 124000 k and have just had to replace engine seals, coil, water pump, distributor cap, electric window motor in drivers door and inner CV boot. I love my car when its running so the repairs were totally worth it.
Hey guys, have had my Lantis for 3 years now. I found that the best thing that didn't cost me much was changing all the spark plugs to performance ones. Really makes a difference to the V6 2L engine.
I'm in the US and I have "part" of a Lantis Type-R. Long story but we bought a 1993 MX-3 (is this a Eunos 30x for you guys?) with a dead 1.8L V6 and swapped in a KLZE 2.5L from a Japan spec Eunos 800 and a manual LSD 5-speed (probably) from a Lantis Type-R. This transmission and the CV joints are obviously not available here in the US so I had to get a Lantis Type-R Left side CV joint to make everything all work. What a pain that was. But now what a dream of a car to have!!!
GG - Michigan, USA.
Bought my 2L V6 pocket rocket 4 years ago at 90k. Now at 210k in that time, all belts done at 100 & 200, a set of performance plugs, lowered (new struts and springs) suspension -1.5", custom exhaust (awesome sound and better performance/fuel with doing those two alone). Apart from reg oil filter change, nothing else has been done to it, just a great car and still grunty, I do the Rimituka hill (69 bends one side and 35 the other) 10 times a week - just loves it.
I have/had a 2L V6 Lantis (I gave it away, now trying to fix it) I put it up the drive & one day I went to start it & it wouldn't start. It has lost spark at the plug, so I tested the coil in the dizzy by wrapping wire around the probe & set the wire to see if a spark jumped to the earth, but no joy. There is power getting to the distributor/coil. Does anyone know if this is a common problem for these cars? Are there any other distributors without the built in coil that will replace/fit this engine if that is the problem? Any help would be appreciated!!
Lyndog, Canterbury NZ.
Mazda Lantis is very popular for the dizzy cap failing on them. This happened to my 1995 V6 2.0lt; the car would turn over, but not fire. I checked everything, I had plenty of spark coming from both leads and plugs. So I thought it would have been the ECU. Rang up Mazda parts for a new ECU, and the lady refused to sell it to me, until I had tried the dizzy first, she was right.
Yesterday, drove the car to work, parked it up 8 hours later, went to go home, jumped it, car didn't start. Plenty of power, but when you turn the key, nothing happened, as if you had it still on ACC. Tow-started the car, it started, drove it home and turned it off and on, started no problems, turned it off and on again, it turned over a few times, and then started, turned it off and on again, and it just turned over about 4 times, and then sounded as if the battery was dead.
3 hours later, started the car again, it went first pop, turned it off and on, and had the last repeat of what had happened hours before.
Today, I charged the battery, started it and it popped first time. Then I left it for ten minutes and turned the key, and the same thing happened as when I had first finished work the day before.
Any ideas to what my problems is? I've never had problems starting the car before, except the dizzy replacement.
To the person who posted on 7th Jan 2011, 05:40:
The problem with your KF engine is the Crankshaft Position Sensor, located on the front of the engine (right-hand side of car). The biggest symptom of it failing is being able to push-start the vehicle, but having it crank until the battery is dead.
Thanks Shane. Turned out the problem was the starter motor was damaged on the inside, and the brushes had worn too low.
Hi, I have the same issue. I have a Mazda Lantis 2L V6 manual hatchback. My right hand inner CV joint is stuffed. What is the name and phone number of the place you know of that sells them? Cheers, Jodie.
Hi everyone, I have a Mazda Lantis. It starts drives really fine, until after 10 minutes or so, when you're sitting at lights, on a hill or even just idling away, minding your own business, the next thing is it just dies.
I have replaced the distributor, ignition module and coil; still no joy. After around ten or so minutes, the car will restart.
If I am unable to fix it, I will put a match to it and watch it burn. Will post on Youtube.
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