2000 Maxima GXE (5-speed) - Original Owner - 103,000 miles -always use premium.
I have never had the injectors cleaned (never needed it).
I had the #4 coil changed at 50,000 miles.
I had the whole coil set and plugs changed at 87,000 miles. (about $800). Ran okay, just okay.
I informed the service guy at Nissan that it just didn't feel right. It felt like a 9 second car to 60mph instead of a sub-7 second car to 60mph. He didn't agree.
I had a tech take the car out, and he agreed with me.
He recommended the Mass Airflow sensor to be changed, EVEN THOUGH THE IDIOT LIGHT didn't COME ON FOR IT (do you hear that Nissan???), and the car was like new again. Much cheaper than the coils @ $90 apiece.
The idiot light finally came on two months before inspection. I listened to the comments.
I changed the gas cap ($7.86) and unhooked the negative side of the battery for 30 minutes. Idiot light went out!
Never needed the catalytic converter to be looked at.
Thanks you to all and to the tech at Nissan, (not the service desk guy!). The car feels new again.
Hi all. I had the same problems for a long time on a 2000 Maxima.
I replaced spark plugs three times with little or no improvement.
Last week I bought all six coils on ebay at $215.00, replaced them and the spark plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor. The SES light went off and the car is powerful now.
I plan to buy a new MAF this week.
Before putting too much money on your car, I would suggest changing the MAF sensor probably at $150.00 at NAPA.
I just purchased a 2000 Maxima GLE, 69,000 miles, three days ago. The car was state inspected on Jan. 5th and the light came on 3 miles from the dealership the same day. This site has opened my eyes and closed my wallet, I wish I had seen this earlier. I will contact them with all this information in hand and demand a solution since I am in their 72-hr "satisfaction guaranteed" period...we'll see how that works out, but they are not getting a dime from me in service department charges.
I just brought my 2000 Nissan Maxima into the car dealer (Nissan) due to a problem with starting in cold weather. When it is cold outside it will not idle without stalling unless I am pushing on the accelerator until the car is warmed up. After it is warm the engine runs OK. Nissan diagnosed my problem to to the air fuel mixture - they said this is not related to NTB00-008b, which addresses the same problem with a solution to reprogram the cars computer ($90 repair). The problem is due to the intake plenum gasket (upper manifold gasket) is leaking and air is getting in and messing with the fuel/air ratio. After it warms up, the plastic gasket expands and seals the air leak - that's why it only happens when cold. I did not have any diagnostic errors when they hooked up to computer. They are charging me $450 (should only be $250-$350).
Nope, cleaning the MAF didn't work. I will continue. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks to all!
Replaced the MAF sensor today. The car runs perfect, all codes gone! Thanks for all the input.
I had my 2000 Maxima for over a year now, and it's been pretty good to me so far.
I changed my MAF sensor, spark plugs, 2 ignition coils, and the starter so far, and it's been running great.
I also drained my tranny fluid and put in synthetic tranny fluid (much better for the car and the life of the tranny) + synthetic engine oil (Royal Purple Oil + filter); $50 dollars at Pep Boys for 5 quarts and a filter.
I recommend that if you've had the car a long time or you've just got it, you change your coils, MAF sensor and plugs, because these things cause the most problems with these cars, and they are very easy to do; I did it all myself.
If you need help, go to Maxima.org website and sign up. It's free, and you will find a lot of answers there to your questions.
Also, most important, don't get ripped off by dealer labor prices. They wanted over 500 dollars to change ignition coils, which is crazy for a 30 minute job.
If you have engine codes, some local Autozones will check them for "FREE". You heard that, FREE, not 100 dollars like a dealer will charge you.
I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima. I had a problem with the car stalling after being warmed up. I read on here about cleaning throttle body. Worked great thanks, any input in the future I will be sure to share the knowledge. I bought the throttle cleaner at AutoZone for a few dollars.
I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 125,000 miles on it. Over the past few days, when I go to start the car, there is a very loud vibrating sound coming from the engine. Also, when driving, and I go to accelerate it will also vibrate the entire car and engine. Is this something mechanical? Any help would be appreciated.
Were you able to figure out what was wrong with the car? I have 2000 Maxima SE and having the same problem.
I have 2000 Nissan Maxima SE with 175000 kms on it.
Recently the car stalled while I stopped at traffic lights, and I had to tow it to mechanic who changed the alternator, and it seems everything went wrong with car from that point.
He ended up changing the crank shaft sensor and MAP sensor to fix whatever he thought was wrong with it. He also mentioned that he notices problem with gear shifting as well.
Now while I am driving at a faster speeds, every thing seems OK, but if I am easy on accelerator, when I hit speed of 30 km, second gear slips. I added 1 bottle of Lucas Treatment, but no help. I had no transmission problems prior to changing the alternator. Can any one suggest what could have gone wrong, and what is an easy fix to this problem?
Thanks for any feedback.
I too own a 2002 Nissan Maxima that has the same stalling problems, at stop lights/signs, on acceleration, etc.
After spending almost $3000 dollars at the dealer for new mass air flow sensor, 120k service, fuel injection cleaning, engine flush, new spark plugs, the problem with the check engine light still exists and the stalling is still there. It is very strange that so many people are experiencing the exact same problems with these cars. Nissan is no longer on my list as a reliable car to purchase.
I have a 2000 Maxima, with 180,000 miles and I had the problems with it stalling at a stop, and while driving as well. I changed the idle-air-control valve 2 days ago, and so far, it hasn't stalled again. The valve is mounted on the bottom of the throttle body, and isn't hard to replace. It'll cost around $200, and if you have a 10mm socket, flat tip screwdriver, and 12mm socket, pliers, and a Phillips screwdriver, you can do it yourself in maybe an hour or so.
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