21st Oct 2005, 19:13
I have a 2000 Max SE which has about 100K miles and my check engine light came on about 8 months ago. I had two mechanics check my car out. The one mechanic changed the oxygen sensors, fuel pump, checked for vacuum leaks and the light came back on a couple of days later. The other mechanic replaced a vacuum hose that had a small crack and double check the O2 sensors again but he couldn’t figure out what’s wrong with my car. After I drove the car for a few days the light went out and just recently the light came back on. From what I’m hearing it’s probably the ignition coil. It looks like I will be driving around with the light on for a while until I can save up and pay for work. By the way, great forum.
23rd Oct 2005, 19:35
I, too, have a 2000 Nissan Maxima. Bought it two years ago. A week after I got the car, it started stalling on and off, and "bucking" when I was driving. I took it back to the dealer (it was a certified car). They replaced an oxygen sensor.
Well, to make a long story short, I kept having problems on and off over the first year. A mechanic friend I know said the '99 and 2000 Maximas had ignition coil problems. I ended up having all of the coils replaced (at a cost to me close to $1,000) and the car has been fine ever since.
I recommend anyone who has similar problems to just replace all the coils (you can try to have the dealer cover it, but most likely they won't since it isn't a recall, but there was some sort of service bulletin about these).
27th Oct 2005, 20:36
I have 1999 Maxima with 130 miles,all the servicing were done from the Nissan dealer until 120k miles. I have all the receipts. The infamous light of Maxima is on in my car for a week. After reading this froum I tried disconnecting the battery, but did not work. I do not feel any problem if terms of the performance. May be it is too early. I am thinking of replacing the fuel cap myself first. I will drive for a week or so and see if it works. I may also start using premium gas and see how it works. I will get back and report in this forum. But it may have to do with the coil or oxygen sensor.
Does nayone know how to replace ignation coils. It it a difficult job. Canwe do it by ourserlves?
14th Nov 2005, 20:22
I bought a 2000 Maxima SE in 2001. It had 48K miles.
Replaced A/T Control Unit $500 (under warranty) at 49K miles.
Replaced R&R Coil $120.45 at 90,317 miles.
376 CPR, Volume Air??? $289.61 at 90,382 miles.
Performed 90k service. Trans Svc, Drive Belts, etc. $340 at 92,319 miles.
Now at 117K miles, my car is sputtering and the Service Engine Soon light is staying on. The dealer says that I need to have the Ignition Coils replaced at $850.
I had a 93 Accord DX for 5 years from 38K miles until I totalled it at 156K miles. Only spent money to have timing belt, etc. changed.
I will never buy another Nissan. Wishing I had my old Honda.
19th Nov 2005, 12:39
I can't believe some of the reviews I have read about all the repairs people have done to get the service engine light off. I am a former manager of a repair shop. Mechanics hate that service engine light as well. Normally it is three things 1) EVAP Code - Meaning there is a leak in the evaporative system. It could be the gas cap, vent hose, or other part. 2) O2 sensors - They report the ratio of gas in the exhaust and are more reactive to other problems than being the main problem. However they do go bad. 3) Engine misfires. This can usually cause other codes to pop up, but the main problem is probably coils (especially with the nissan). The misfires can cause bad O2 readings as well.
Most mechanics will read the codes and replace everything that the computer tells them to. It might not solve the problem, but they do it just in case or because they don't really want to troublshoot the system. EVAP systems are difficult if the mechanic doesn't have a pressure testing system.
The bottom line, many cars have this same problem and Nissan is not alone. Count your blessings that it is just a coil, O2 sensor, or gas cap. Other cars are replacing transmissions or engines. I've heard of Acura owners having replaced their transmission three times in under 100k miles... now that is bad.
21st Nov 2005, 16:02
I have a 2000 maxima se and recently I've noticed its been losing power, it takes a heavier foot to make it go than it used to.. I've seen 2 mechanics, both told me the spark plugs lookd fine, so it had to be a fuel system problem, apparently the fuel filter can't just be replaced??? confused on that matter?? so I've been considering either cleanin the fuel system and/or replacing the fuel pumps..
But now that I found this thread I wonder if its the coils..
When I start up the car after its been cold for a while, the car makes a noise similar to when the ignition is tried while the car is already on.. I've also noticed by lookin at the rpm dial that when I start it, it sometimes drops back down almost shuttin the car off, but then goes back up to normal..
are my problems coils? or both coils n fuel system??
20th Dec 2005, 21:53
I have a similar problem as the person who posted a review, two above this one. My 2000 Maxima GLE with 102,000 miles started running very rough in the spring of 2004 it turned out to be one of the coils, which I had replaced. The problem reoccurred again and eventually all the coils were replaced. However now when I start the car with a cold engine it runs for approximately 30 then stalls. When it's around 32 degrees or below it takes maybe 8 to 12 times before I can get the car to idle without stalling. Seems like it's not getting enough fuel. It also runs very, very rough. It makes a whining grinding noise when you turn the key. My mechanic is still troubleshooting this problem and I'm in the hole for almost $2000, coils, sensors, throttle-body. Has anyone out there had this problem? If so please post a review on what was replaced by their Mr. Goodwrench to resolve the problem.
17th Oct 2005, 19:30
We have an automotive chain that will read the ODB2 codes for free. Coil failures, which I have had one, do show on the scanner, but it only indicates the side or bank that the failure is on. By pulling all three plugs on the defect side you can usually visually ascertain which one has the bad coil. I replaced the one that was bad at the parts counter price of approx. $80 and had no problems for a while. I asked the parts man if it was a common problem and he reminded me that he asked "Do you just wanted that one?" Enough said!
However the engine light does seem to be on quite frequently even though most of the time drive ability is exceptional.
The mass air flow code seems to occur quite regularly and the Haynes manual states that even though the MAF sensor is with in specs for voltage and ohmic readings, it can still have wave form deformities that disrupt the computer's proper operation.
I intend to stay the ground and drive it, but it will be a fight not unlike Chrysler or Ford or Mitsubishi or some of the other who have put trashy parts together and sold it to me as a good product.