21st Jan 2007, 17:37
I had a similar problem that you have. My Maxima 2000 would drive fine around town, but as soon as I accelerated at higher speeds, my car would lose all power. After having my car in the shop for 3 weeks, I finally had the Mass Air Flow unit replaced. That solved the problem.
I've also had 2 ignition coils replaced over the last 2 years, and my engine light has just come on again.
23rd Jan 2007, 07:46
I have 2000 Maxima GLE with 99,000 miles and paid the $400 for the 100,000 mile service after the engine light came on. 2 days later the light is on again. I take it back and they said all 6 coils need to be replaced at around $800. The only bad one they found was coil 6. Should I just get that one fixed since they put in all new spark plugs with the 100,000 service? Thanks.
PS - Should I take it to a place like Autozone just to make sure they werent lying? This is a dealership we're talking about. Thanks.
1st Feb 2007, 19:12
My daughter just purchased her first car, a 2000 Maxima GLE with 175,000 miles. It runs and shifts fine w/o any warning lights. At any speed if you nail the throttle it bogs and won't accelerate. If you ease off the throttle, it will get to a point that it will pick up and go. This problem only happens when you get on it hard and you can hold it to the floor and it never picks up RPM. (stays around 4000 and bogs there) Mass Air Flow Sensor, Catalytic Converters, Throttle Position... If the engine service light doesn't come it will there be any error code to read?
8th Feb 2007, 19:05
To the comment on Feb. 1 about your daughter's car "bogging down". I had similar symptoms with my 2000 Maxima and after three weeks, my mechanic finally figured out that it was the Mass Air Flow unit. After replacing it, my car ran fine.
12th Feb 2007, 12:42
I've owned 3 Maxima's in 7 years because I love the car.
Unfortunately 2 in a row have been lemons. I bought my 2000 used in 2005 with 75K.
Problems with cold-start went on for over a year with no one being able to diagnose the problem. I would have to keep my foot on the gas until it was warmed up in order to avoid a stall. Eventually it got worse and was stalling in 55 degree weather as well. Engine light was always coming back on even after all O2 sensors and coils were changed.
**Take note: Recently found out it was a gasket on the upper intake (a $600 job).
It's one month later and the check engine light is back on. At 1st it seemed to be a tranny problem because it was skipping gears. Unfortunately it's not just the tranny computer. I'm waiting to hear the damage, but I'm officially through with Maxima's. I guess I'll have to find another favorite car... : (
1st Mar 2007, 13:30
WOW! Have read most of the 100+ comments and like some have stated, I feel somewhat better knowing that what I have experienced with my 2000 GXE (85K) is not uncommon. This car has experienced the stalling at idle, rough running in low RPMs until the engine heats up, and of course, the intermittent issue with the Check Engine light. It's back. Re-tightening the gas cap which did the trick about 6 months ago, did not remedy it. Other than the rough running on a cold start, no other performance issues. Haven't yet thrown the big bucks at the problem as others have, at least yet. I am amazed at the lack of responsibility Nissan has taken with these recurring issues. This is the first and last Nissan for me, and as others have said, my Hondas and Toyotas have never disappointed me like the Maxima. Just hope there's a market for this vehicle.
2nd Mar 2007, 16:16
I have a 2001 Maxima SE. Last night my car stalled while driving and now won't stay started. I can't get it home and me being a woman I am very scared of mechanics. I have been ripped off in the past. I gave someone a jump start about a month ago and the SES light came on until I refueled then it turned off. But now my car left me stranded. Does anyone have any suggestions? I would appreciate it.
8th Mar 2007, 07:27
Sometimes if you car stalls on you, it could be myriad of problems, as noted on all the previous posts. That said, if the car won't start again after it stalls, give it some gas, about 1/4 throttle, and turn the ignition. Hold the throttle for maybe 10 seconds and see if the idle holds. If it does, you can drive off and find someone who can help you with the car.
8th Mar 2007, 21:19
I have a 2000 Maxima SE 5spd and do almost all my own work to the car. I have had a few problems, but none that a person with knowledge of modern day emissions and fuel delivery systems should have too many problems with. Here's a few things I've learned:
1. Loss of power / stalling - it is important to identify a loss of power as soon as possible. This is usually caused by a bad mass air flow sensor. You can order a new one on-line for ~$100. When you do, you will received the updated sensor and will need to have the ECU reprogrammed at the dealership to match up with the new part (about another $100). If you do not get the ECU updated to the new part#, you will get false oxygen sensor codes (P0430/P0420). It may be fine for a while, and you will instantly have the power back, but you will eventually get the oxygen sensor codes (again, trial and error). If you wait and drive the car as is (like I did for a while) it will run lean on fuel and cause the loss of power/stalling to get worse. If you run it like this for a while, the exhaust gasses will be much hotter than normal and can damage your catalytic converters and oxygen sensors, and that can be very costly. Spend the ~200 and have your car run like new again.
2. My coil packs were all replaced under an extended warranty after 1 went bad, and and I pointed out to the dealership the TSB that recommends all are replaced at the same time. The new coil packs do not have the same problems the original ones had.
3. The fuel filter assembly is located in the tank, which is accessible through a cover located under the rear seat. At 100,000, I replaced this. It was very dirty, cost ~40 at the dealership, and I did the swap in less than 1 hr. Caution!!! you are working with gasoline and gasoline fumes. Use only a brass or plastic punch to remove the retaining ring, and do all this outdoors with all the doors open and windows down to avoid a catastrophic event. I did this right before I replaced the MAF sensor and it greatly helped the stalling problem, until I realized it actually was the MAF that was bad.
These are the only key events I have had with the car, besides routine maintenance items. Otherwise, the car has run a great 125,000 miles and counting. If you let the local dealership do all the work for you and don't want to get your hands dirty, them be prepared for some large and greatly un-necessary bills.