Hi there! A question: I have recently put on a second-hand alternator and the fuel, brake and amp lights come on temporarily and then go off. The pld alternator just died coming home on the highway. I was stuck in the middle of nowhere, but is this the alternator or a wire somewhere? Also, when they come on, the square fuse under the bonnet (the blue one) clicks loudly, and when they go off it stops; has anyone had this problem?
Hi I have found that the trouble most likely to cause the amp, fuel and brake light code to come on, which indicates a alternator problem, it would more than likely be the voltage regulator, which one guy said is the black plastic box on the alternator. I took mine off and found the brushes are buggered, and I found that it's only a $50 dollar part and easy to fix, so if you know how to take the alternator off, it's a cheap fix instead of taking it to a auto electrician who would more than likely charge that to look. It costs nearly $300 for a new alternator and $50+ for a second hand one, which I found out, and turned out it was the voltage regulator. So I hope that helps guys, and if ya find that it seems to use too much fuel, try a new thermostat.
Hi, I have an intermittent problem with my tachometer - sometimes it works and then sometimes it doesn't. Also my fuel pump makes this humming noise and when my fuel reaches about 1/4 left, it is hard to start the car. Does anyone have any suggestions as to why and how I can fix it?
My daughter has a 1990 Nissan Pulsar and the fuel gauge and odometer no longer works, I have bought a wreck with a good instrument panel, but I'm unsure how to swap them over. Any ideas?
Hi, I have a 1987 Nissan Pulsar Sports, which I brought for $1,500.
The things I have done to it are put bigger rims on, 205/45/14, put in a larger fuel pump and injectors, 3" muffler all the way through, podfilter and changed the spark plugs to burn at a higher temp. It has about 130k/w, but when I drive it for 1 hour or more, the ECM light flashes on and off, then it will come back on and stay on until I switch the car off and restart it.
Also, when I turn sharp into a right hander, the oil light flashes on until I have finished turning. Can anybody explain what's the deal?
Otherwise a great little car, and very very responsive, and I must say it really gets up and goes after 4500 r.p.m.
RE: Previous post Jan 7th.
Not sure why you fitted the larger fuel pump & injectors, as the stock 164cc items are plenty for any N/A setup in the 18LE's.
The ECM light comes on when the computer detects a sensor is not operating within its range or isn't connected. The computer has a self-diagnostic function, which will tell you exactly what's throwing up the error code.
Go to http://forum.pulsar.org.au/ and search the forum for 'Reading ECM codes' and pick the thread by 'JohnL'; Everything you need to know about said ECM error is in that thread.
The oil light coming on on sharp right hand corners because the oil pump's pickup is located on the driver's side of the sump. So when you corner hard right, the oil will probably be moving away from the pickup, causing oil starvation and the lower oil pressure that's triggering the oil light. Look into this ASAP, as you can destroy your bottom end bearings very quickly this way.
Make sure the sump isn't dented in this area, and possibly remove it to check for blockages on the oil pump pickup (it has a fine mesh over it that can get blocked.)
But check your oil level first and use the correct grade (15W-50 factory quoted.)
Good luck ;)
Hi all, just bought an 87 mod SVD #014 Black and silver. It's in fair condition and I would like to know more about this model e.g. how many they made (I'm told about 200), are they worth anything, is the black and silver original, and if anybody knows all the factory specs etc?
I so far have found for an old car it's great, but have found the same small problems as many of you have had.
Hello. I have a 1990 Vector. Does anyone know what the problem is when the A/C fan doesn't go on when you put it in reverse, and also I have read that the fuel, amp, brake light come on because the alternator voltage regulator needs to be replaced. Is that right, or is it the computer?
Also when it is cold, the speedo won't go until the car gets warm in the cold weather. In summer it is alright. Is it a faulty speedo sensor? Can anyone help me?
In reply to the guy that thinks his Pulsar has 137kws, ya don't get 58kws from putting in a bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors and a straight through pipe in. If this was the case, then don't you think that cars with already high hp would be more likely to do this?
And also, to everyone that thinks pod filters add hp... THEY don't, they are sucking copious amounts of hot air from your engine bay; you're better off with a stock air box. Do the working out; if pods were so hectic, then don't you think that Nissan would have put them on as standard? Pods are meant for turbo cars which can suck hot air, because it has to pass through the intercooler. If you wanna have a pod, them run it to a cooler place like between your wheel arch and your bumper; theres more than enough room, and that will help your power a little bit.
But other than that, I agree, I love my Pulsar to bits. I'm getting another one soon, mainly because I broke my auto box, so I'm getting a mate's old manual version. They really do pull for a small car. The autos are a nice car for cruising, and still have enough power to overtake, but the manuals are just that much better in my opinion, they are very responsive.
A few of my mates have had them as well, and love them; in fact one of them has one that makes 328kws atw with a 150hp shot of NOS, except that has the ca18det conversion, but still that's pretty ridiculous, and it's only running low boost ATM so yeah.
As for the ECM light, mine comes on all the time, it's the VSS. I've replaced it and it still happens so I ignore it LOL.
The only problems I've had was the gearbox and the VSS, but other than that it's a dream to drive, so comfortable.
I have a 1.6L manual n13 that runs fine for about 15mins, until it gets warm. Once warm it starts to flood and when you hit the accelerator it either back fires or stalls. I have changed the computer, coolant temp sensor, injector, tps, distributor, plugs, leads & checked the timing. Can anyone help me???