11th Sep 2009, 08:33
I'm back. n13 Pulsar, new alternator, radiator, plugs, leads, distributor, battery, pads, everything just about... 1.8l are rippers.
Here's a tip; advance the distributor and run premium or Optimax so to save pinging.. drive through a tunnel and listen for pinging noise (detonation). No noise advance. If noise with premium, pull over quick and retard it... stock air box is killa... launches front end, goes crazy, luv it!!!
11th Sep 2009, 14:03
The only suggestions that I could make are to double check the ECM to be sure it's the correct one for that year & engine model. Did the new ECM (computer) make any difference? Was it a new part or used from a scrapyard?
You might also have the MAF sensor checked.
Did you have the oxygen sensor checked or changed?
29th Sep 2009, 04:58
I own a n13 1991. Passed down from boyfriends mom, to boyfriend to me. It's a little ripper, will shed tears when it finally doesn't run. Like the others, has mainly the same quirks. Odometer drops down to 30km/h while NOT doing that speed, ECM lights intermittently comes on, roof fabric regularly falls in (does this happen to anyone else), horn sometimes gets stuck, also had the whole dash die on me once. Nothing worked, not even the km counter. Any reason for this?
A real aussie battler - had a tree fall on it, and it still runs. Awesome.
27th Oct 2009, 17:58
Umm yeah, I have a Nissan n13 Pulsar Q, 1990 1.8L.
My roof fabric is falling in... but I stapled it back up, I have never had the speedo or tacho drop out on me.. but my ECM light only just started turning on...
I suggest you get your car serviced... the next week, my distributor was dead... and I agree they are really tough rippers... mines been in 2 collisions... after she came outta hospital LOL, she was fine...
19th Nov 2009, 21:52
Hello all. I have some info for you all. The Nissan n13 engine was put in a Holden Astra 87 - 89, and my Astra, which looks the same as the Nissan and runs the same; I have 2, one auto and one manual, now 1st gear goes out to 47k, then 2nd 70, 3rd 115 4th 140, and 5th I don't know. Both of my cars are stock. I am putting a gt turbo engine as I have blue door trims and roof, and much more to list, coz with the GT engine in it, you will run under 10sec.
If any one wants to know anything, let me know by e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org.
3rd Jun 2010, 00:13
Hi! I've been reading the comments and doing my own research online, and I'm having similar problems with my ECM. It's been to the mechanics twice, and since it returned the second time, the ECM is on for longer. (the last time it was taken was to fix the manifold seal and the oil switch replacement)
Should I be concerned about my ECM light and take it back now, or wait 2 months til I take it back for some top up work (clutch cable and a service)?
26th Jun 2010, 05:35
N13 ECM coming on and off is sometimes alternator brushes arcing..
Run it without the alternator wires connected and see...
1st Aug 2010, 19:08
I have an N13 Vector GL. I have no major issues with it at all; the handling is great, even in wet weather. It actually seems to perform better in the wet!
The engine is surprisingly strong for a twenty year old car. The transmission needs replacing, as does the clutch, proven by the fact that I have to have the car turned off to put it into reverse.
Other than that, average characteristics of old cars; dented, faded, worn out, yet still working as if it were new minus a few transmission issues.
26th Nov 2010, 04:54
Hey guys, my Pulsar has had some technical difficulties in the way of the fuel pump taking a crap. Everything else is fine, but the suspension needs an overhaul with new bushes and ball joints, front and back.
ALL HAIL THE PULSARS.
28th Jan 2011, 06:48
I bought my 1991 n13 1.6 manual just over a month ago for a cheap run about, and it has been worth every cent. For a 20 year old car, it's still pretty smooth, and has a lot of get up and go.
Just replaced the CV joints; made the steering a lot lighter. Only problem is with the odometer that counts backwards, runs good in stop start traffic on hot days, and always starts first turn.
2nd May 2011, 21:10
A $20.00 plastic cog fixes the odometer. Just a bit of a pain getting the speedo out if you haven't done it before.
2nd May 2011, 21:14
I had same problems, pull the dash out, and if you have patience... resolder all the pins that connect to the plugs from the wiring loom. This means taking care when removing the circuit board (flexible) from the back of instrument panel.
5th Jun 2011, 22:02
I believe that the reason for the fan running in reverse is that it automatically switches on the air con.
10th Jun 2011, 23:06
I have 1991 1600 cc Nissan Vector. I think with these models, it's the air conditioning fan coming on. The air con circuit is activated when one goes into reverse. This helps lubricate the air con pump.
25th Jun 2011, 01:36
I have a Nissan Pulsar Reebok 1990 auto and I think the head gasket has blown... Does anyone have info about getting this fixed in Brisbane?
Has what now sounds like common problem of dead odometer and dead temp gauge (hence the blown gasket methinks).
Is this a job a poor home mechanic can do with a good spanner set???
Or does it need lots of fancy reseating/ cam tests/valve setup etc...
In other words, can I just undo all the head bolts, lift it carefully, pull old gasket off, slide a new one in, and replace the head!!!???
7th Aug 2011, 16:03
The noise you hear when you put in reverse is the air conditioner turning on. It's a clever way to extend the life of the seals within the A/C unit.
29th Feb 2012, 23:54
Hi. I've got a 1989 Pulsar Q N13, and I'm wondering if a Holden motor was put into the Nissan, or a Nissan motor was put into the Holden i.e. Astra and some other Holden - Camira? I've heard both scenarios mentioned in different places.
The only problems at the moment are; sticking handbrake on the left, which I have to snap back in with a screw driver at the back wheel; yeah, off to the mechanic.
The right rear handbrake, at the back wheel doesn't seem to work at all. In short, I'm not using the handbrake.
Also, there's a generic oil-cap on the engine. Could this be why the engine seems to have an oil leak?
Good reliable little vehicle otherwise.
24th May 2012, 02:59
If you are replacing the head gasket, it is always a good idea to get the head re-surfaced to ensure it is 'flat'. You can replace the head gasket quite easily. No big deal. Just need to make sure you get the timing belt set up again correctly. Plenty of info on the web about this. You will also need to replace the head studs, as they are 'one use' only. They stretch and cannot be reused.