I purchased a used 2000 GTS 6 speed in December of 2007. The engine light came on about an hour after I purchased the car. I took the car to Toyota and was told there was a misfire on cylinders 3 and 4 but the car still ran great. Then about a month later the car would bog down at the 2500 to 3000 rpm range. If you shut the car off and refired it the problem went away. Then it happened again and again. Finally I had it scanned and it showed all four cylinders had a misfire. Repair center gave me the old oxygen sensor routine. Come to find out there are two Oxygen sensors on the engine. I had them replace the bad one with a Denso 234-4604 and now all is well.
2000 GTS 142K.
I bought my Celica in 2001 with 13k miles. Up until 2006 I've head no problems. It was a little sluggish so I replaced the MAF sensor and everything was OK. But now... the interior dome light doesn't work, the lights around the heat/air knobs is out, and the engine light constantly comes on! Toyota charged me 100 to tell me that it would be almost 600 to replace the circuits. Also my head lamps are cloudy as heck. Just recently, sometimes when I gas it going over 40 mph the car shuts down and then start again. It all happens within seconds. It's crazy! I've had it looked at but no one can find a problem! But I still love my car!
I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT. Within the past two weeks I've been having problems with the electrical components. When the outside temperature is above 50/60 degrees in the morning, everything starts fine. When the temperature is below those numbers, the dashboard, windows, headlights and AC won't work. The engine, clock and radio turn on fine, but nothing else will. I took it in to get fixed. At that time the check engine light was on and they said I needed to replaced the vehicle speed sensor. That didn't help at all with the electrical problem, but it did seem to fix the sluggishness. I don't want to put it back in the shop, but I hate not being able to depend on it to get to work in the morning. I'm hoping this is a minor problem but I have my doubts. What could it be?
Hi - I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT, Manual - I had extreme bogging going on - Finally got to the point to where my car would not even crank up - Couldn't even roll start it - Thought it could've been the battery causing that problem.. so I switched it out...didn't work. Also changed out the spark plugs b/c I haven't had a tune up in awhile... I was reading some more of the comments about replacing the MAF sensor and guess what? You don't have to replace it... Clean it really good and gently with a q-tip and rubbing alcohol and my car does not bog down AT ALL. It was so bad that it took about 2-5 seconds before my car would respond to the gas pedal being pressed. Also driving on the interstate and trying to accelerate was a pain in the rear end. I hope this helps guys - I can't believe the difference of cleaning a small little part would make without paying a fortune in maintenance at the dealership.
I bought my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS in 2005 with about 18K miles on it. Garage kept in great condition. I haven't had any issues until recently. I have now 69K miles on the vehicle. The check engine light came on and I noticed my car began to studder and become sluggish when first starting out. I looked online and read to just clean the MAF sensor that is located right on top of the engine. I did and the sluggish start went totally away. But the light came back on in two days. I went to the dealership and they said the Charcoal Canister is the problem. I have noticed I burn more gas recently and the Charcoal Canister has a lot to do with it. I haven't changed it yet, but I may just trade this car in for a brand new Infiniti and make $5k on the Celica for a downpayment. I love this car, but no one seems to know the real issue here and I don't want to start having more issues and not be able to get what I can for it now. Good Luck Everyone!!!
For professional advice go to www.newcelica.org only if its 2000+.
I bought a 2000 Celica GTS in March '08. All it's done is give me problems.
The engine was overheating at first. It turned out to be the head gasket. It cost me $1200 to replace that. It fixed the overheating problem, but the check engine light came on. It was checked over by my mechanic and he said that it was the O2 sensors or the Cat. converter. He replaced the O2 sensors. Didn't fix it. I replaced the converter and it was fixed for about 3 days.
Engine light came back on. I went to a different mechanic. He said it was the Evap system. He told me to get a new gas cap and then we'd see if it fixed it.
My car is giving me the same slow starting problems as everyone has mentioned. I don't know if I should try to fix this or just get rid of it. I've already put $2100 into fixing it. I can't afford to keep putting money into this car like this. Any suggestions?
2000 Toyota Celica GT 122K Miles.
I recently installed new LEDs on my Dash, Took off the old Orange color and installed a sleek blue color. When I reinstalled the dash my RPM would jump to 2000 RPM, I took it back off took the needle back off and realigned at 0. When I reinstalled it again the same thing happened so I decided I'd take it off again, take out the motherboard from the casing and plug it in and adjust it again. Seemed to be a good idea, when I put everything back together very carefully and plugged it all back in... bam 2000 RPM again. What am I doing wrong?
The fuel filter can be replaced without replacing the pump for celica models 2000 and up.
JANUARY 15 2009 1996 TOYOTA CELICA GT
Had the car 8 years, no problems till now.
It's started to splutter the first time I start it on a morning. Accelerator pressed response is poor, feels like it's clogged. Have read the reviews, don't know what to do, I have no warning lights showing.
Going to give it a full service when the weather gets warm. Any other suggestions would help?
I have an automatic 2000 Celica GT. Had problems with the transmission not changing properly when the car had around 28,000 miles (the oil was never changed before that). Thank God it was still under warranty. They change the transmission and ECU at no charge, but I remember seeing the dealer invoice and it was for about $7,000.
After that I learned and change the transmission fluid every 18k miles or once a year.
A few years after that I had that same problem about car stalling when I was trying to accelerate. Went to the dealer and they helped me out by trying a mass air flow meter from another car and the car started running fine again. Just in case, before I spent the $125 (at that time) for the new MAF, I installed a fuel/air gauge and confirm that every time I stepped on the gas it was running lean. That was about 4 years now and I had no problems of that sort since.
I got one of those K&N filters and I think it was the oil the filter has that damaged the Mass Air Flow meter.
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