05 GTS 6spd... oil light flickering at idle and when the engine is hot... replaced oil senders sensor... oil still flickers sometimes and not every time I come to a stop... oil is good, replaced last month and is full. If the light is flickering, as soon as I hit the gas it goes away, the engine idles well, no codes or anything except the intermittent flickering oil light that is getting on my nerves!
Anybody have this issue, and what did you do to solve it?
I would start with the cheapest things first... change and oil and filter... get a good fram filter and higher viscosity oil.. maybe a 20-50 Castrol... Do this yourself so you have peace of mine it was done right.
Also make sure the idle is correct... that it's not too low.
Next check for possible any bare wires going to the gauge from the oil sending unit.
Lastly, buy a cheap gauge, and hook it up inside the engine compartment to the sending unit...
It is your MAF sensor, remove it, it cannot have any, I mean any dirt on it. Clean it with carb and throttle body spray, dry with a blow nozzle, and it should be fixed.
What are the coils you are talking about? I've got very similar problems with the poor acceleration/bogging, but have newer plugs (6 month). Always use 93 gas and keep the MAF cleaned a couple times a year. Thank you.
Try the coolant temp sensor, you can check the resistance output from the sensor with a multimeter. If I remember rightly, the resistance should drop as the car warms up as it is an NTC sensor. If it does not drop steadily or does not change at all, I would say that's ya problem.
I know your post is very old, but this may help someone else experiencing the same problem with the car idling. You may want to check your idle air control valve to see if it is dirty or clogged in some way, or replace it all together. It could be the source of the issue.
I love my 2000 Celica GTS. Mine has 226,000 miles, but you have to put premium gas in, get the best oil change, and it ain't a cheap car to keep up. I have had to replace a lot of stuff, but I love it.
My 2000 Celica GT now has 161K on it. I'd had the same above mentioned problem you're talking about for a long time. It went away after I performed a trans fluid and filter change. I believe the reason for the shifting problem was the nearly 6 quarts of fluid it had in it! (3 quarts max!) Back when the car had around 90-95K, I had a "drain & fill" done at a local shop. After recently having done it myself (with the bonus of a filter), I noticed the under body shield covering clips hadn't been touched... my interpretation: they never drained the old fluid and just added 3 more quarts... make sure your auto trans isn't overfilled!!
01-02 Toyota Celicas are great used car bargains... running between $6000-8000. Smart buyers are snapping them up... especially clean 1-owner cars with records...
I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GTS, and it probably wasn't your window switch. My window would roll down when I wouldn't hit the button. And it wouldn't roll up; it would stay down when I hit the button. All it was, was soda inside of the inner console.. Where the window switches are, it pops out and is easily accessed... Flushing it with water did the trick.
I have an 02 Celica. Well here it is. My wife woke up early, because she was being stubborn, and she wanted to change the spark plugs out, but she took out the fuel injectors instead, and broke all the o-rings. So I replaced them after dealing with the check engine light, because my wife didn't know what she was doing, so the engine light went off.
After I replaced all the o-rings, no more gas leaking.
As of today, 3/31/2012, my engine light is back on, and I'm getting ten miles to the gallon, so I checked where the injectors are at, and nothing is leaking. Is there anywhere else they would be leaking??? Please help.
I just bought a 2001 Toyota Celia; it's something I always wanted. The problem is, every time I put gas in and try to start the car, it stalls on me. It would start, but when put in drive, it stalls. The gas I put in is regular; never thought it mattered what kind of gas I used. Thermostat needle goes all the way up after driving for 5 minutes. I then have to pull over and turn off the engine and restart, and then the needle goes to the normal level.
I really like the car. I have spent 1300 trying to fix it. I am very sad. I don't think the mechanic knows a whole lot about this car. Then why did Toyota design it with so many problems? Keeping your customers happy is good business... money is hard to come by these days, so I like to spend it wisely like on this car.
Toyota Celica is a very good car, but over the years, the old gas and carbon build up take a toll on the engine and smog components. Inspect the spark plugs... they should be a nice tan color, or even a grayish color is acceptable. Then get a troubleshooting manual for it, along with a service manual. If you are going to keep it, you are going to have to do the maintenance on it.
If it's a one owner car, you are in luck, because usually the first owner does some form of maintenance on it. At least at the beginning of its life. If it's a 2nd, 3rd, or 4th owner situation... work must done to get it back to least average condition.
You are going to have to work on a older car, at least the basics, if you are going to keep it. Relying on a 60-80 dollar an hour mechanic is probably not going to work in the long run. Also YouTube sometimes has small clips of video on how to work on cars or components of cars.
I love my 2000 Celica GTS, but lately I have been having some problems. My problem right now is my radio, clock and all my gauges are not working.. I have checked all the fuses and they are all fine.. Is there possibly a relay somewhere that controls all those things? Any help would be appreciated!
I disagree with the 20/50 oil comment big time on this car. Unless you are looking for a new engine soon.
It's your illumination relay... I had the same problem... Now is a good time to check and replace all relays and fuses.
Sounds like a idle air control valve.
I've had similar issues with my Celica GTS 2000. Took it to the dealer and it ended up being a leak between the intake and exhaust manifold.
Also the VVTL-i engine's lift will stick in the valve, causing flooding. Don't be surprised if you get that repaired, if your engine light trips the solenoid. I spent 4Gs on the first set of repairs, and now it needs to go back. The engines rely on 2 major things; excellent vacuum pressure and CPUs that control the air and fuel intake. The 2000-2003 Celicas are complicated machines.
What year is your Celica? Normally it's 2002 and up that have been fixed. 2000 and 2001 are the faulty ones.
To everyone. Try changing the spark plugs and wires, and then cleaning the MAF sensor if it's misfiring or hesitating, and it takes in more oil than normal. So always check the oil levels once a week or more. Mine has fully synthetic and it only lasted 3000 km. Also the fuel pump and filter. You can change them yourself; look it up on YouTube; it's not hard, just takes a while. But it's worth it unless you wanna pay huge bills for labor at a dealer or mechanic. And if you wanna change the fuel pump, it'll be easy when you change the filter because it's right there.
Don't pay mechanics; it's easy doing things yourself, and also check the injectors yourself. You can clean them easily; don't waste money at dealers.
The Celica is very easy to look after. Mine's not the best either. And I'm not a pro or mechanic. But I can save a lot of money.
And a good tip also is never drive near empty or below a quarter tank; try to keep half tank or higher. If it gets to a quarter tank, it will start sucking from the bottom, and if your filter is bad or needs replacement, it won't filter and will leave debris and gunk at the bottom, and that'll be sucked in instead of clean gas.
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