7th Sep 2010, 17:04
I just bought a 2001 Celica GT, and I love the car, but on my way to work, 5 min into my 45 minute commute my CEL came on, and after reading all of these posts, I am afraid to see what I am up against!... Ouch!
28th Sep 2010, 09:17
I have a 2000 Celica GT-S. Earlier this year, the Check Engine Light (CEL) would intermittently come on and then go off. The duration it would stay on gradually increased, until one day it just stayed on and never went off. The car ran fine, so I thought nothing of it. After about two months of this happening (the light never went off), I started to notice the car would become more sluggish when starting from a cold start. A couple of times, it would even stall a few seconds after starting. I did most of the routine (not TOO difficult "repairs") like cleaning the MAF sensor, checking the gas cap, etc, but nothing seemed to work.
It was time for the car to get its annual safety inspection, and my state (Texas) now requires that there be no MIL codes present in order to pass, so I was forced to take it to the shop. So the day before I had it scheduled to go in the shop, I started the car and the CEL light was off! I went ahead and took a chance and went to one of those lube stations to get it inspected. and, lo and behold, it passed! I looked at the inspection sheet and they did check the MIL, so whatever issue was there isn't any longer (or, at least, is in hibernation).
Anyone know what could cause this?
The ONLY two things I can think of that had any bearing on the situation were one (or both) of these:
1. Problem started happening around the spring time, and when the CEL was on all the time, it was in the summer. We had a cool front come in a few days prior to the time when the light went back off. Could temperature/humidity have anything to do with it?
2. Every 3-4 months, I usually put in a bottle of STP Fuel Injector Cleaner. A month prior to this incident, I put in the heavy duty cleaner, and after that tank of gas was empty, I put in another bottle (instead of waiting another 3-4 months). Could that have fixed the issue?
Just strange.
4th Oct 2010, 20:56
Check engine lights are almost never for nothing. They are there for a reason. To drive with 5 years to avoid repair costs and then wonder why you have a knocking engine... well I don't know what to tell you. Good luck with that one!
18th Oct 2010, 17:56
A clanging and knocking in the engine? Doesn't sound good. Sounds like a broken rod or something along those lines.
24th Oct 2010, 21:45
I'm about to buy a 2001 Toyota Celica and the engine light is on... the owner said it was the O2 sensor, but after reading all these comments I'm thinking twice about getting it.
25th Oct 2010, 22:54
Hey I have Toyota Celica GTS and my RPMs at idle go up and down from 1 to 3. Has anyone had the same problem and tell me what is wrong? It's not a vac leak. I know it could be the IAC or the MAF but just trying to see if anyone else knows.
5th Nov 2010, 00:47
I have a 2000 Celica GTS with about 70k on it, and it runs great, never had any major problems. It's a great car.
It does idle high at start up, but I mean what car doesn't.
I also have a 2007 Cobalt SS stage 3. Had it since new, and always has done the same thing, so I don't see much of a problem. Just don't beat on your Celica too much, that's all ;)
16th Nov 2010, 15:15
To the author of the last comment above: the fact that your car idles high for the first couple of minutes after starting is a good thing. It's supposed to do that, and I believe most cars do. The reason for this is that when the engine first starts and gets previously-settled oil pumping back through it, you want it to idle faster to help it warm up and circulate that lazy oil. I would be more worried if it WASN'T doing that.
5th Jan 2011, 17:55
I've got a 2000 Celica with 105,000 miles on it. My CEL is on, and even when I clear it (by disconnecting battery), it comes back after a while.
In addition, I'm noticing a hesitation in acceleration. It's more noticeable in the lower gears (it's manual). Really annoying. I'm thinking about taking it to Toyota to have them look at it. Based on other posts here, it sounds like my MAF either needs to be cleaned or replaced.
Any ideas on why the car is having the intermittent hesitation while accelerating? I usually run 93 octane and still notice it.
Thanks!
8th Jun 2011, 16:12
I own a 2000 Celica GT automatic, and I am having similar problems to those listed above. I have had everything checked by independent as well as Toyota mechanics, and have spent 100s of dollars so far replacing spark plugs, MAF sensor, air filter, etc.
Here's the deal:
It starts fine every time, no matter the temp/humidity. I put it in reverse and it consistently has been sputtering and dying out before I hit the gas, and if I do hit the gas it dies faster. If I put it in park while it is sputtering, it'll sometimes rev up and be OK, especially if I give it some gas. It does the same in the first few seconds of drive or after stopping, but not every time. Pretty scary when you're pulling into traffic and it may or may not go. Once up to speed, it sounds fine unless I try a quick acceleration (ie. passing someone on interstate), then it lowers RPM, hesitates, and then kicks in.
The check engine light is not on, but will come on sometimes and then shut off. I've tried fuel injector cleaner, dry gas, high octane gas, with no difference. Doesn't matter if it's rainy or sunny, cold or hot. It doesn't feel like the tranny, but it does feel like fuel system related or electronic?
Help! I love this car and don't want to sell it, but I'm leaning that way if this continues, I want a car that goes when I want it to!
2nd Sep 2010, 04:13
I have a 2000 Celica GTS 6 speed I bought used in 2007.
The motor blew up in 2008 and I had to buy a new one and have it shipped from California. I am not a smart person when it comes to cars, but my check engine light has come on and I have had it checked and they say it is EVAP emissions control and multiple misfires in one of the cylinders.
Also I was wondering if anyone could tell me what could make the air and heat only work on high?
This is my daily driver the new motor has 53000 on it, I have a 1 year old son now and I owe too much on the car to sell it because no-one is interested with a new motor. I just don't need the motor to blow up again.
Oh and another thing when I open the gas tank to fill it up I have to cut my car off or the motor jumps and eventually dies, and even if I try to crank up after getting gas it usually dies if I don't take off and keep going right then for at least 20 seconds?