Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-62
Alrighty...I have a 2000 GT-S. The engine light has been on for over a year. I have taken it to repair shops with the same response... nothing is wrong, but you should take it to a Toyota dealership. It was running fine, so I figured it was a fluke. Well, the other day it kept feeling like it was about to stall. Guess what, even with having regular oil changes, NO OIL!!! Mechanic says there was so much oil all over he couldn't tell, but he thinks it's the rear seal and $600 to fix. This thing has 127000 miles on it. He doesn't know if there is permanent damage, I would have to leave it for awhile... but I need to get to work. The thing is, there was never any oil being left on the ground when parked. Now there is... but not much. It shakes when coming to a stop and stutters a little when just sitting still. It seems as if it gets worse when the air is on... anyone have any similar problems?
Hey everyone, I might have a solution. I have a 2002 toyota celica gt-s with the same sluggish take off and sometimes puddering. I do have some mechanical knowledge and my instincts tell me that there is a problem with the idle air control valve. If you open your hood, it's small and black and sits on the side of the throttle body and it has a gray electrical connector. NOT the MAF sensor, that sits on top. A faulty idle air control valve could definitely cause this problem. I would replace this valve or at least run it past your mechanic if you don't work on your own cars. Hope this helps!
Hello, I have a 2000 Celica GT-S six speed. Nice car love it, could be a little faster. The car has 100,000 miles on it, and the only problem I am having is that sometimes the RPM will jump up to 2000 while in neutral, then it will drop back to 1000. It will do that off and on through out a day of driving. Doesn't seem like a big problem, but wondering if anyone knows why it's doing that?
I had similar problems with my 2001 Celica GT which is a manual transmission. It seemed like every time I went to get the oil changed there was no oil in the engine, yet it was never on the ground where I park. Eventually I had a loud banging in the engine which resulted in my entire engine needing to be replaced. Luckily I had 58K miles on it and the drivetrain was under warranty so Toyota picked up the tab. Now at 92K, my car is stalling and jerking anytime I get on the highway or drive over 40 mph. It's at the dealer now and the computers aren't able to diagnose the problem. Does anyone else have an idea of what I should look for?
I have a 2000 Celica GTS with 93000 miles, and I'm pretty much having the same problem as a few people on here. First the Check engine light is on, second when I have taken it in to the dealer they said a bunch of things were wrong with the car, but they didn't know for sure they just said it was a possibility. I took it to the dealer I bought it and they weren't sure either. They did say it could be something with the fuel system. The problem that I seem to be having is sometimes the car does a minor stuttering the rpm needle moves above 1000 and then below 1000 repeatedly. On just a couple of occasions the car has shut off. But both the times it happened the car started acting crazy. (the cruise control was blinking on and off and the air bag light kept blinking as well.) However once you turned off the car and left it along for a minute or so the problem would go away. The stuttering has remained, though minor it doesn't seem normal. When I took it to a different mechanic last week and we check the codes 2 codes showed up, a random misfire, and something with the evap system of the car. The last noticeable problem I have had with the car is the gearbox. It makes a cracking noise when shifting to 3rd gear, and when down shifting from 5 to 4th other than that the other gears are fine. (Does anyone else have a stiff gearbox or is it supposed to be soft?) All suggestions are appreciated... I don't want the dealership to screw me again specially since the last 2 times I have taken it I have spent more that $2000 replacing the power window switch, the oil pan and the member assy.. (BTW I know they ripped me off)
OK so guess what I just bought a 2001 celica gt-s and I have had nothing, but problems with it.. first thing I had four engine coils go out then I had a crappy transmission that some one didn't know how to replace, and now after five times goin to the dealership.. guess what happens the engine light comes on again.. not cool.. I love the car it drives nice and I love the way it looks I just am sick of all the problems..!!! werrr.
I have a 2000 Celica GTS - 91,000.
When my engine light first came on I did what everyone should do and that is going to AAMCO and getting a free engine light check done. The results where emissions problems, probably a sensor, VAC, Exhaust, or Fuel Tank related. The next thing I did was to pick one at a time and do a simple test for each one. Turn the car on, have my friend Rev the engine and listen and feel each part. I found out that my injen cold air intake sounded funny. I google it and found out that it could be a sensor problem. I took off my MAF sensor and yes it was burned out. I replace the sensor and reset the EFI fuse along with the battery. Problem solved.
Now 3+ years later, the engine light came back on. This time I found out that I needed a new filter and a new VAC.
As long as your engine light is not blinking you're okay for a little bit, but make sure to get it fixed while you still can.
I was experiencing a lot of hesitation when first hitting the accelerator on my 2000 Celica GT-S. A couple of days later the CEL came on. The dealer read the code and replaced the Manifold Airflow Sensor (MAS), which fixed the problem completely. I think the lesson here is that the dealership can pinpoint the problem much more closely with their Toyota-specific OBD-II equipment than Autozone can with their generic reader.
I am a new 2000 Celica GT owner. Bought mine late 2006 used with 63000 miles on it. I have had the same idling problems a lot of you guys have had. My comment is that it was still under warranty. It fluctuates when first started. When its warm the idle stays the same 97 percent of the time. The dealership I bought it from diagnosed it when engine light came on. It was a misfire. To make a long story short, it has been to the dealership I bought it from 8 times. An additional 4 time to Toyota cause Honda can't fix it. Let me tell you what has been done to try to remedy this. First all new exhaust (catalitic convertor from factory), new vacuum hoses, new plugs and wires, fuel system cleaned, New gasket aroung engine, after all this they (Toyota dealership) Says it must be the injectors or engine computer. 6/17/07 Got the car back with brand new injectors and new ecm/ecu NO CHANGE! What in the world is this! Someone help please. All this work and no Change!
Hi I have a 2001 toyota celica gt. I had 3 codes appear (p0441,p0446,p0440) all relating to evap system. This is a common problem with celica's. Start small replace gas cap pull out efi fuse wait a minute then put back then vacuum lines. Erase codes if it appears again then you need to have gas lines, gas tank and vapor canister checked (most expensive option last resort). Always check MAF, MASS, AND ESPECIALLY THE VSV. This should eliminate most problems w/evap. Remember if you need to change 02 sensor get a universal and change both should run under $90 for both. Good luck...
OK I commented earlier that after the Honda and Toyota dealerships worked on it, replacing ecm and injectors last there still was no change. I'll retract that statement, there was some change. It did get better after driving it a few days. Toyota called me and said the ecm was in. I thought they already installed it. I think this may have worked. Will drive it a while and comment on this later. I talked to toyota relating to them that I did research on this car and this has been a big problem. They did say they knew of this and that's why they changed the injectors and ecm.That was the remedy according to them. I hope this will help someone.
Same sputtering problem with my 2000 gts 6spd. Very histant, to the point of stalling, until it warms up. It has been going on for nearly a year, gradually getting worse. Finally I get code po 170, and po 171 which simply state the motor is running lean. I've done oil, filters, O2, cleaned maf, and just prior to the problem I changed the plugs. I want to change the fuel filter since I've seen similar responses from several cars with clogging filters. But these cars don't have one! Apparently it's built into the fuel pump. I'd like to slap the designers. My next step is a new set of plugs, I'm thinking maybe the idiot behind the counter gave me plugs for the 1zz instead of the 2zz motor. I think they have a different heat range.
I am having the same problems with hesitation with my 2000 Celica GTS. I have driven manual transmission celicas for the past 20 years and never experienced this loss of power when starting out.
I recently took it to Firestone, which is local and has great techs in my town. They couldn't find anything wrong with it, but suggested the 90,000 mile PM. After the 90K PM which includes filter, plugs, etc there is no difference. I did notice it began to get worse in the Spring, so it could be something to do with the heat/humidity. Right now it takes at least 10-20 minutes to warm up to the point where it doesn't sputter when starting out. It still drops way down in RPM when pulling out, which isn't normal. The curious thing is it takes off like a rocket once it gets going, but it's quite dangerous pulling out on a highway when you're not sure if its going to conk out at any minute.
Do we have a consensus at this point what causes the hesitation? Has anyone else tried the 93 octane gas?
My car has always been fed 93, NEVER anything less. I've had numerous problems with past cars using shell, so I don't go there. A spark plug change did not help the problem. A faulty TPS or IAC should throw a code, right? Maybe the poor fuel filter design is the problem, and the pump is getting clogged in the tank? I'm finding that my car has flat spots in acceleration at higher rpms in addition to the super common hesitant start.
My GTS has 99k miles. I recently learned that there a Tech Bulletin about the 2000 GTS that tells them to replace the ECM and fuel injectors for a logic prob which causes a random misfire. I am in the process of replacing the fuel injectors, but the computer is >$1200. I will see if this works 'til I can find a replacement ECM. The Tech Bulletin stated that Toyota would've covered the cost if I had <80k miles. Well, I personally think they should pick up the cost anyway. It was a known defect. I will continue to look for a reasonable price for the ECM.
My 2 cents, hope this helps.