2002 Oldsmobile Alero GLS from North America - Comments

I bought a used 2003 alero for under 10 g's and it's been six months already... it had about 85000 km's when I bought it and I have managed to put on about 5oookms now... anyway the service engine, ABS, n trac lite keep coming on... reading from yer comments, what do I do? take it to get serviced or jus ignore the lites, cuz it sounds like a computer error to me... what do I do?

Jan 23,2007

We have a 1999 Alero. Two brake jobs First one in 2000 under warranty. Power steering pump twice. Power steering ram once. Fuel pump once. Back of ignition once. Broken strut that punctured tire. Alternator twice. Positive side post of battery fell off. Windows squeak, doors squeak. Low track and ABS light continually come on. Driver’s window assembly broke. A nylon guide piece (maybe $20) that bolts on!! cannot be bought separately. Entire assembly must be bought for $200.00. Service engine light comes on way to often.

Count me in as yet another unsatisfied Alero owner. What a disappointing piece of junk. Purchased my 2000 Alero in '01 with about 25K miles. Since then, I've had the following:

Rear defrost failed.

Dome light fell.

Passenger window fell, no longer able to open/close.

Intake gasket issue (not just once... but twice)

Tires not holding air & lights constantly coming on.

Lighter/adapter faulty.

Leaking/disappearing coolant with light constantly on.

Cruise control faulty (twice)

And, the kicker... While driving at 65mph the car just lost all power and stopped. Then it would start again, and stall. After a series of frightening drives just to get the car home, was able to get it to the mechanics, who were finally able to duplicate the problem and determine the fuel pump was shutting down, for no apparently reason. It's $800 to fix, and with the other $800 to fix the intake gasket again, I think I will cut my losses and move on to a Honda. This car has been nothing, but trouble. Buyer beware.

If you want the fastest way to disable the Passlock---You just need to be able to start your car one time. Start it--leave it running--put car in neutral-- remove your radio, but do not unplug it. (Let it hang) Reach inside to the left and locate 3 tiny 22 gauge wires wrapped in black friction tape. (Yellow, Black, and White Passlock Wires) These are with the Ignition switch harness. Cut the (Yellow Passlock) Data Wire (while the engine is running). Security light will come on and stay on forever--- this tells you that Passlock is disabled. (PCM is in fail enable mode) Tape up both ends of the Yellow wire. Your car will crank from now on with no worries. I would suggest that you add a toggle switch, though. Disable Passlock --- it's not necessary to add a remote starter. Google "Passlock I or II Disablement" for the procedure to add the switch.

I purchased my 2000 alero gls new in 2000, since that time I have put 95000 miles on the car, replaced the front brakes at 55000 miles (still had life left in the old ones) rear brakes still do not need replaced. The only problem I have had was the window motor on the driver side stopped working, cost me $80.00 for new window regulator and motor, put it in myself. This has been a very good car and I do not understand why so many other have had so many problems with their cars, maybe they failed to maintain them proper.

In response to comment 17:32: Why would you install the toggle switch? It sounds like Grand Theft Auto would be this owner's best friend.

I also have a 2000 oldsmobile alero and I also have had problems with the cracked head gasget, the brakes have been replaced three times in I year. The electrical system is horrible. There was a recall on the turning signal that was fixed, thank GOD for that. But overall I hate the car and am ready for a new car. No wonder they went out of business. I bought mine in 2003 a year later out of business, I've been stuck with this car and still making payments for s car that is not worth the $15,000 still owe 5,000.00 and paying for it.

I purchased a 2003 Alero in 2004, it only had 13,000 miles on it. I had it only one month and the transmition went out. Since then, wheel bearings twice, brakes and rotors about every 9 months, driver side window failed, paint chipping on front bumper, fuel pump, master cylinder, dome light has a mind of its own, cruise control shut off when it wants too, new rear wheel, always have to put air in front tires, on second set of new tires, pass-lock has now done something. Had I not listened to my mother-in-law, I would have saved a lot of money overall. My late husband was a Ford man and now I know why.

My 2001 Alero has had the brakes and rotors replaced too many times to count and my husband has accused me of being too hard on them. I've now shown him this website and I thank all of you. My heating blower has just died again for the fourth time and I'm tired of paying the repairman, but what can we do as owners of these cars? Is there any recall or help for these problems or do we just complain to each other?

I have also had problems with my 2003 Alero:

Brakes and wheel bearings replaced last year - $500.00

Passengers side window no longer will go down.

And now I had to replace the head gasket - $900.00.

I am not happy with this car. It is the worst car I ever owned.

As another Alero owner I've had many of the same problems as the rest of you. Just a heads up as well that the rotors for these cars are only $24 a piece and cheaper than the brake pads. The auto parts guys said they're basically made to wear out. Also the one positive is they were a piece of cake to change, and I think pad and rotors for all four of my wheels was around $250.

The other stuff hasn't been as easy like the driver side window breaking and all the interior lights coming on. With my new problem (rear defroster) I was just wondering what everybody else had to do to get their's working again? Do I have to replace the whole back window or is it just a computer problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I also have a 2002 Alero. I bought it brand-new...had about 13 miles on it when I drove it home. I was lucky enough to get an interest-free loan, and most of the things that went wrong were while the car was still under warranty. These are the things that have been repaired so far... head gaskets, power steering, starter, front passenger side wheel bearing, brakes twice, (of course those were not under warranty), gas cap has been replaced twice or three times, and this was all before the warranty was off at 50,000 miles. Now at 74,000, the transmission has to be replaced, as well as the driver's side wheel bearing on the front. I am so sad about my car. I have loved the ride, the looks, but was so amazed that someone had their dash cover shrivel.. I thought maybe I had done it by cleaning it with something I shouldn't have. I have had the tire lights come on several times, but that was lucky for me, as I avoided flat tires each time, as there were nails in my tires. I am close to retirement and had bought this car, in order to have it paid off by the time I retired, so I could enjoy it payment free for awhile. Now I have to put in a transmission, and so I guess that will take a while to pay off too. I guess I could rationalize some and say that the money I saved in interest might pay for the repairs, but it is scary to think that my problems might recur. After it is fixed and paid for in Aug. Maybe I better get rid of it.

The following is an alternative fix for Passlock problems. The cost to replace Ignition Lock Cylinders is around $500 at dealerships.

If you want the fastest way to disable the Passlock---You just need to be able to start your car one time. Start it--leave it running--put car in neutral-- remove your radio, but do not unplug it. (Let it hang) Reach inside to the left and locate 3 tiny 22 gauge wires wrapped in black friction tape. (Yellow, Black, and White Passlock Wires) These are with the Ignition switch harness. Cut the (Yellow Passlock) Data Wire (while the engine is running). Security light will come on and stay on forever--- this tells you that Passlock is disabled. (PCM is in fail enable mode) Tape up both ends of the Yellow wire. Your car will crank from now on with no worries. I would suggest that you add a toggle switch, though. Disable Passlock --- it's not necessary to add a remote starter. Google "Passlock I or II Disablement" for the procedure to add the switch.

Someone commented earlier that this would be a Grand Theft Auto dream. That may be so, but I no longer have to worry about my wife and children sitting stranded for 10 minutes in a dark parking lot waiting for the Passlock to reset. (or not)

I'm more worried about car jackers than someone stealing something that can be replaced. This is just an alternative to wasting more money on another Ignition Lock Cylinder.

We also purchased a 2002 Alero new. I have had to replace the wheel bearings 7 times. 2 while she was under warranty, but the remainder were my cost. (approximately $165 Cdn each plus cost to have installed) 2 Strut Bushings, Rear Defogger (when we went to the dealership for the part as this was the only place we could purchase it the sales clerk said that we would also have to purchase the wire for the connection as that is what usually burns and causes the module to burn out. Module cost 140 Cdn and Wire 30 Cdn. I am sure I could go on for days about the torment this vehicle has caused us. I am very disappointed with this vehicle and can say with the utmost confidence that I will not purchase another Chev product.

I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Alero and it was nice the first year, but its been one thing after another, well replaced the fuel pump twice, the ignition lock cylinder and the security light won't go off. this car is a piece of crap and anyone is considering buying one don't!!!i want get rid of it fast!!!