4th Aug 2012, 23:27

I have an Epica with 220K on the odometer. I have owned it since new (2004) and have no real problems:

- Replaced ignition key ($300).

- Replaced 2 wheel bearings (warranty).

- Replaced cracked windshield x2 (not the car's fault).

- Replaced brakes about every 2-3 years (this is my driving, but I do think this car goes through brakes quickly).

- Replaced tires once (really, in 220k that's more than okay, I run winters as well).

- Replaced 3 coils, and I have to do one more (this is the worst part of this car in my opinion, but these are relatively cheap and you can do it yourself).

But in 8 years of driving and 220K, this is normal wear and tear. I'm sorry you all are having problems... but overall, this car is costing me only about $1000/year in maintenance, with me doing some of the work.

Toronto, Canada.

30th Dec 2012, 22:13

I had my air filter changed, and that's when my check engine light has been coming on and off

15th Jul 2013, 22:46

I wonder if you still have your Epica? I just want to know how can you determine which side bearings are going?

I bought this car two 2 months ago. I am hearing a noise. A neighbor say it's bearings. Is it true that the bearings come with the hub as one piece.

Thank you.

19th Aug 2014, 06:47

My car is doing the same thing at the moment. Have you got it fixed? And what was the problem if you did?

28th Feb 2015, 20:59

I've had ignition problems; usually happens once a year in the winter. The key just will not turn! I've had the car for 3 winters, and the last 2, spraying WD 40 right into the ignition worked. This time (3rd winter) it didn't help at all. After it sitting for 3 days and running out of ideas, I removed the outer cover of the ignition, used my key to "lift" the ignition, and it must've set it back in place, as it started up again. Also tried spraying rubbing alcohol into the ignition to "remove" any debris, dirt.

30th Mar 2015, 11:59

Did you ever find out what happened that your low beam headlights would not come on? There was a recall on my DRLs and I had that fixed, and now I don't have any low beam lights, and when I try to put on my high beams, the DRLs go out and I lose all light to see. I can only drive during the day. Really not good when I have to go out of town. I can't find a diagram for the wiring of the lights, or my husband would try to fix it.

14th Jul 2015, 14:05

Have a 2004 Epica with 112,000 km on it. Recently we can't start it with the key in the ignition, but the auto remote start works just fine? We have no turning signals and 2 of the four power windows don't work?! Took it to a GM dealer - after spending $400+ on diagnostics and them ruling out "re-programming the keys and fuses", they said the computer board requires replacing - $1,000+. Has anyone else had this happen? Don't know if it's worth the money - we've had other people tell us that this won't fix the problem. Anyone have any input?

30th May 2016, 22:43

2004 Epica... daughter's car. Just a few comments.

The problem with the removal of the key or starting of the car could be the safety switch when in park. It's a poor switch and I just removed it and spliced the wires together.

Also had several check engine lights and issues running due to a broken vacuum line. It's at the back side of the engine so the heat has deteriorated the hose connection. Changed the hose and fixed stalling and no acceleration. Check all your hoses!

19th Jul 2017, 03:25

2004 Chevrolet Epica LS.

Hey guys and gals, this 2004 Epica is like a hobby for me now. I dabble with the help of YouTube and other things from the internet for this car. But seriously, if the Epica you have is older than five years old, have your ball joints checked by a professional.

The ball joints are part of the front control arm. One time on the way to work I was almost killed. What happened was I made a left turn and a heard grinding noise and managed to stop before it got worse. I got out thinking it was a flat tire, but it happened to be my whole passenger side wheel assembly had fallen apart, including the drive shaft. The ball joint connection rusted away from the control arm and disconnected the whole drive assembly. I was lucky I was on a slow street and I stopped in time.

If this happened on a highway, I would have been a goner. I got it repaired and still drive the same car, because I love it. Even though emissions test can now be a pain in the ass for this vehicle.